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jumaringjeff
Jun 28, 2003, 6:52 AM
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what's on tap for the weekend?? Tomorrow I got gigs but Sunday I'm planning on headin' out. Anyone want to join me? Haven't decided where to go yet...probably CH.
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robbovius
Jun 28, 2003, 1:40 PM
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damn Jeff, I have family stuff I wish I could get out of, otherwise I'd head up to CH tomorrow.
headed over to CR in about 20 minutes, I'll be there until 1:30-2 orthere abouts...
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bonesz
Jun 28, 2003, 2:45 PM
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All work and no climb makes Bonesz/Don a grouch !! I've missed you all a great deal, as I see the economy (in the construction area) getting better by the week, I've been working...and working...and working :( .
I managed to play hookie from work this past thursday, and went to Black and white rocks...humpped my 92# pack into the woods about a 1/4 mile from where I parked...looked at the Boston rocks book, set some bomber anchors with my cams and hexes screamed "rope" as loud as I could threw the sucker and rapped down into ........A THICKET BRUSH AREA.........YEOWWWWWWW..yes I was alone...yes I was soloing (again).
Had a blast though after I picked all the thorns out of the epedurmous (sp). Tried some different anchor techniques and was very pleased with the performance of the gear..always felt safe, always felt confident in the placements.
Now if I could only find a decent belay slave for such occasions........hmm
humping all my gear out alone bit the big one..rope and all the stuff, not to mention all the water I brought in, and the trash I picked up too !
I'm sure I'm going to bump into some of you soon, as the weather is finnally cooperating and I of course miss hangin' with the coolest peeps I've met !
Happy climbing ! Be safe ! Please dring lots of water, and put cool wet rags on your pressure points to avoid the HEAT STROKE !
:D
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robbovius
Jun 28, 2003, 5:38 PM
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well CR this morning was a snore, NOBODY there, so after bouldering a while I bailed around 12:30 to mow the lawn.
Bonesz! where the hell you been.
wannabeaclimber and I, and maybe one more, will be scratching up CR from about 3pm on tomorrow.
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jumaringjeff
Jun 29, 2003, 1:41 AM
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Ok ppl, who's up for Sunday??? Greenmantle and his bro are going to meet me at CH ~9:30am. Anyone else???
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orangekyak
Jun 29, 2003, 2:36 AM
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hey Jeff, if you say that you and the twins will be there, so wil I. If you wanna meet at my place I'll drive us out there. gimme a call, my number's in the pm i'm about to send you.
jeremy
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bonesz
Jun 29, 2003, 2:56 AM
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I'm heading to QQ in the am......got to keep it close tommorow, I plan on going solo cause I don't have a reg., partner, though if any y'all see the green truck say hi, I'll also have the monster water cooler for dehydrated climbers.
Got to see the sunrise !! :shock:
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robbovius
Jun 29, 2003, 3:08 AM
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Jef, Jer, wish I could join ya...expecting to hear that you cruised Cro Mag...
Bonesz, have a good morning at QQ
I wanna get two clean repeats on "Excersize Left to the Reader" tomorrow.
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orangekyak
Jun 29, 2003, 3:58 AM
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hahaha cro mag ... I'm aiming for post road and intertwine
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ejclimb
Jun 30, 2003, 12:40 AM
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this may sound stupid but how do u get a profile pic up on your profile?
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robbovius
Jun 30, 2003, 11:37 AM
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Evan, good climbing at CR yesterday. thanks for the use of your slings & rope... below is the climb report
NO repeats for me on "Excersize Left to the Reader", unfortunately I saved "excersize..." for last and couldn't make it work, arms pumped out, I kinda gave up after two tries...I cruised "It's Late September" a couple times, and repeated the face climb (unlisted route) on the arrowhead monolith that's between "Road Trip" and "Excersize Left...". That's a fun route. Compared to the other stuff I've climbed there, I'd guess it was somewhere around a . -6+ to .7 depending on how you climb it.
I cruised "Send Money" one time, but it was sweet! possibly the smoothest I have ever done that route, it felt reaallly together, every move relaxed, no hurry...the only time I've climbed past the anchor to touch the top-out.
Wannabeaclimber pushed herself bigtime! Made it up over the ledge on "It's Late September" after only three tries! unfortunately she couldn't make undercling work on the 6+ above, (a reach issue), but that'll fall to her soon. She also completed the .7 overhang variant to "More Money" after a couple tries, that was sweet! She cruised "Road Trip" and worked "Send Money" up to the sidepull but lost it due to pumped out hands...she finished up with another cruise of "Road Trip" before leaving for the day.
I gave her a small ration on the "Money" routes, because every time she grabbed a crimp I heard "scritch-scritch" of fingernails on rock...heh!
for where I watched, Ejclimb spent most if his time working "The Millitant Right". in the comopany of a father and two young women we met there - at least one of which was the daughter, maybe both, not quite sure. He cruised Late September with a variant out to the face of lower ledge after reaching the corner jug, and spent a bunch of time bouldering the flake on the front of late september
I met Gilly and the folks he climbs with, he gave ME a ration on "Excersize..." for hangdogging after my first peel-off... oh , OK, next time I peel I'll lower off and start over...jeez! ;-) nice to meet & climb with you all.
the MR Flashs fit better with every climb! I could actually stand around in them for almost 15 minutes...I'l tell ya though, my 5.10s were better for the toe-jam at the bottom of the fingercrack on "Excersize..." the flashs allow pressure right thru the suede onto my toe knuckles...ouch! contributed to my peel, I'm such a wuss!
I also picked up some red 1 inch tubular webbing, 20+ feet long, with a figure8-on-a-bight tied in about the middle, that was left on the picnic table...not mine, ot Evan's, not gilly's, not kent or tom's. I believe it was left there by a three-person group (two guys and a woman) that had a small child with them. I don't know if any of them read this site, but if they do, I have the sling with me and will carry it in my cragbag. if I see you at CR I'll make sure you get it back. PM me, and we can hook up.
that's it from my house, who esle climbed what?
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gilly
Jun 30, 2003, 12:32 PM
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Mornin' Rob, EJ, and Wannabe
Its's always nice to have faces to put to names, and good to meet you.
Just wanted to comment that we give everyone a ration , about anything, but it is all in fun and return rations in the same vein are expected .
As for lowering and starting again, I started climbing with the "old school"
attitude of not hang-dogging, though I have to admit that I've become
" more lenient " with age, and I do hang-dog myself.
Lowering off does allow you to wire the beginning moves and will build endurance though, so I still tend to lower off. OK, off the soapbox and back to work.
I'm sure I'll see you folks again , probably at CR or Quincy, though Crow Hill looks to be a neat place. We were out there last Thursday, hogging the 5.5 on the practice face for a lesson in leading.
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garth
Jun 30, 2003, 3:33 PM
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Ok, since everyone said I should post here, here we go. I'm a new climber. I've climbed indoors a couple of times. I'm looking to hook up with someone(s) who will let me climb with them outdoors. I'd love to go this coming weekend, or even some weeknight this week.
I have a 4x4 truck, and will buy beer. I'm 29, in good shape, athletic, have strong hands from windsurfing, and am pretty laid back. If someone invests a little time in getting me up to speed, I could turn into a great belay partner.
I live in Boston, but will travel.
Hope to hear from someone!
Garth
ggg71@yahoo.com
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foograbbinstone
Jun 30, 2003, 4:30 PM
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sup Garth,
Well you've come to the right place! We're always having little get togethers,climbers meeting climbers! As I'm sure you've seen from the posts,there's a few places that the regulars from the area like to frequent!
Quincey Quarries, Crow Hill, College rock to name a few. Plus a little out of state road trip here and there!
If we can match up a day I'll do some climbing with you, as I'm sure alot of the other MAss climbers will as well!!
Your a windsurfer Huh windsurfing is pretty cool Ever head up to Nahant Beach.
Foo
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tcollins
Jun 30, 2003, 4:33 PM
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Wind surfing looks real cool. Now if I could only find me a whitewater kayaker to teach me for cheap :wink:
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foograbbinstone
Jun 30, 2003, 4:39 PM
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yoooooooo
I hear that TD, little tit for tat!!
foo
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robbovius
Jun 30, 2003, 4:40 PM
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Garth welcome to the BIG thread ;-) there are MANY oppportunities for you in the boston/metrowest/area.
not knowing your exact locale, Quincy Quarries is probably closest to you. that has lots and lots of toprope opportunity of varying skill level. There's a couple members of this thread that work/live closeby, you guys wanna chime in? oops you already did...heh!
I climb most frequently at College Rock in Hopkinton (as everyone here is sick of hearing, I live within 3 miles of the crag), which is probably a 35-40 minute ride for you out the masspike and down 495 a little ways. I usually climb there a couple times a week, sometimes 3 if I can swing it, after work, and on the weekend. if you want to make the drive, come on out, I usually post here when I'm climbing there, and am always glad to meet new folks at the rock.
for you there is also Hamond Pond near the chestnut hill mall.. big bouldering area.
if you haven't already, check the routes DB on this site, it'll give you lots of info about the various crags in MA.
keep checking this thread, first time I climbed outside was with all these folks on 3/1 at QQ (go here for pics of that http://www.spockgoesmental.com/mass_climbers/massclimbing.htm ) and all I did was watch the thread, and then show up. everybody was kewl and great fun to climb with.
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jumaringjeff
Jun 30, 2003, 5:28 PM
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y'all missed an epic day at CH. Weather was amazing, the rock was dry (for the most part) and hardly anyone there.
I managed to gather my wits and get on the sharp end once again (thanks for takin' the pics, Jer...got 'em online yet?). It was a beautiful lead, and I felt confident the whole time. It makes so much of a difference when you know the climb; I had TR'd the route numerous times in the past.
I also brought a newbie and he had a wonderful time, managing to onsight (on TR) up to 5.8-. He's hooked and will be joining us again.
It was also nice to see greenmantle and his bro climbing again. They're inspirational.
So what's up for the long weekend? I wanna go on a trip...gunks preferably, but anywhere outta Boston works. Anyone interested?
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tcollins
Jun 30, 2003, 5:32 PM
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Going to Hong Kong on thursday. Out of Boston enought for ya? You know Caryn and I put on good trips, c'mon, dooo it.....
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jumaringjeff
Jun 30, 2003, 6:16 PM
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hahahahha you know I would...have a great time bro.
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robbovius
Jun 30, 2003, 6:23 PM
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jeff, what route were you guys leading at CH?
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the_pirate
Jun 30, 2003, 6:27 PM
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Ahh.... MASSachusetts Climbers, and all this time I thought it was a thread for fat climbers. Just kidding. Anyway, I guess I will bore you all with my urban cragging trip report. Here goes:
Being as this was the first weekend in recent history that it didn't rain on Beantown, I was bound and determined to get out for some climbing. So crack of ass Saturday morning I saddled up the hound and hopped the T out to Quincy. A brisk 4 mile hump took us from the train station to the quarries. (and which one of you was bitchin' about your 1/4 mile approach hike) I headed to the reflector oven for some warm up climbs. (oh yes, pun intended) Planning for a nice mellow day of doing laps in solitude, I had brought my soloist and set up bout the middle of the face. Did Mingled Measure and Palm and whichever other climbs that were reachable form where my rope was set. I had been wanting to give Blood Streaks a shot but there was a load of boy scouts doing their merit badge work on Grey Spot. Nothing against kids, but a bunch of scouts is just more than I can handle. That said, it was time to pack up for bigger and better things. We headed over to the old cliff jumping face where there were some climbers already set up and one of them offered me a run up his rope set on a 9ish line just to the right of Pins. After two early falls, I figured out the sequence and pumped my way to the top.
At this point it is a little past noon, my three quarts of water are long since gone, and my dog's tongue is hanging to the ground. I took drink orders from the rest of the liquidly challenged and set off on a hump to the nearest beverage provider. That turned out to be a Sunoco station just down by the rotary that had drink machines out back and quite possibly the "friendliest" pump attendant I had ever met. When I asked her to change a FIVE for the soda machine, she threw the money on the counter and said to me, "Thanks asshole, you just cleaned me out of ones."
Now heavily laden with Powerade and Desani, we headed back to the quarries. There were some more ropes on the M face now, but Layback, on the L face was open. This was the climb that I had come there to do laps on, so I was pleased. I asked the others if any of them would be interested in doing that climb, which they were, so I set it up as a moveable top rope. I tried several times to do it entirely as a frankenstein layback but it was just too damn glassy and I had to keep using the toe jams. Everyone else that tried it found out the same thing.
I had my dog tied up on 20 or so feet of old rope. Enough for him to move around and chase the shade but still keeping him from stepping on other peoples ropes and pissing on gear and whatnot. He was enjoying himself, maxing and relaxing till this old guy comes by with his dog. They seemed to be having a grand old time playing stick. That is till his dog spots my dog. He runs beeline toward us and bam, bites my poor lab on the ear. Now, my lab, who had grown up with pit bulls and shepherds turned and showed this mutt what the pointed teeth are meant for. A little grunting and wrestling separated the two before any major damage was done, but this old bastard just walks off with his dog, no apology, and shoots me a dirty look like it was my dog's fault. Good for him, maybe while he's cleaning his dog's wounds, he'll think about keeping a little more control over that mutt.
Once all the excitement died down, we all got back to climbing. I did the 8 that runs up the middle of the HARV flake and also hopped on the 5.8 outside corner of the M face. That was a really fun climb. The last climb that I did..... well, attempted was on the right end of the M face that goes up over the ZERO spray painted on the face. By this point I had not enough finger strength left to pull the crux crimpers so that one will be on my hit list for next time.
Being thoroughly climbed out and sun burned to a crisp, (pasty white guy says, "sunscreen is for sissies.") I headed up top to dismantle my setup. There I encountered five kids hanging out. They must have been 10 or 12 years old and after asking me repeatedly if I was a cop, proceeded to produce this huge satchel of herb. Seriously, who sells pot to kids that young? For the entire time it took me to take down the anchor, daisy the webbing, and coil the rope these kids were fumbling with rolling a joint and only succeeded in creating a sloppy, pitiful, loosely rolled mess. This was just more than I could bear. I set into giving them a stern and harsh lecture about how they were much too young to be smoking that sh!t and then showed them how to twist a proper doobie and headed down, leaving them to their own devices.
Luckily one of the fellows that I had been climbing with turned out to live in my neck of the city and offered me a ride, thereby saving me that miserable hike back. A quick stop at my neighborhood CVS for a tub of aloe vera cream and I was back on my porch sipping a Guinness, listening to the neighbors cuss out their kids, and reminiscing about a good day of climbing.
City life, ain't it grand.......
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jumaringjeff
Jun 30, 2003, 6:48 PM
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rob -
I led Boardwalk, orangekyak led Boardwalk and Intertwine.
Hats off to OK for the Intertwine lead; it's a stout 5.8!!! I fell twice at the crux (of course this was AFTER I flailed on Cro-magnon and spent almost all my energy).
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robbovius
Jul 1, 2003, 2:25 PM
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sorry for the confusion folks, I dunno what happened, I guess I broke the thread for a while....
anyway, to reiterate what I posted on the REBOOT thread, I'm goin' to CR tonight 5:30 until sunset, wannabeabclimber will bethere, possibly wideguy too, anybody else interested?
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foograbbinstone
Jul 1, 2003, 2:30 PM
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yooooooooooooooo Robb
I might make it out there this afternoon,I'll give it a shot!!!!!!!
Havn't seen you guys in a minute!!!
rrradam- you the man , thanks for finding our thread again!!! Now what did I do with that needle................
Foo
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