|
jakedatc
Aug 22, 2003, 8:20 PM
Post #1151 of 22774
(523326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
hey rob
Unless you think otherwise i think skipping today might be the best idea on the side of caution.. seems like some big time stuff coming through and i'd rather not be out in it
i'm climbing sunday with steph so it's no big deal missin today
Jake
|
|
|
|
|
robbovius
Aug 22, 2003, 9:09 PM
Post #1152 of 22774
(523326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 20, 2002
Posts: 8406
|
Jake yeah, Shane and I just got off the phone, we're baggin' it for tonight. damn it... and I was all about trying out them new tricams ...
oh well, I won't be out on the rock again until sunday, most likely CR.
|
|
|
|
|
robbovius
Aug 25, 2003, 12:23 PM
Post #1153 of 22774
(523326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 20, 2002
Posts: 8406
|
Hey Shane and I actually climbed at Lookout Rock yesterday, in preparation for the cleanup day on the 6th. we climbed on the Center Crag, on a route called Center Crag Middle which the new BR guide rates as a 5.9+ but to me felt more like a 5.8 (so it might have been Pumper No. 9, 5.8 ), both Shane and I sent the thing first try, it was a fun route - aren't they all? - though I would't call it easy. I also tried a variation that might be a route called Center Crag Left Side. I actually found some chalkmarks on one ofthe horizontal cracks below the overhang at the start, so somebody'd been there recently, this summer anyway.
the rock there is conglomerate, very rough on the. I scraped my knee and it was almost like striking coral, without the knife edges. Made for excellent friction, for sure. There was MUCH lichen everywhere, but that didn't seem to hinder the climbing as much as I thought it would, not nearly as much as the think layer of pine needles. there were some very interesting formations for handholds, one we used was a pair of foot-length pockets tha had eroded thru behind, leaving a vertical 'bar' of stone that you could wrap your fingers around...as you may imagine a bomber handhold indeed.
we both agreed that Lookout may not be so interesting to the more experienced climbvers we know becasue it's generally all moderate routes I think because the place is so undeveloped as a climbing area that it'll take probably a coupel years of people steadily going there before the routes are well established and easy to get to. of course I volunteer my services ;-) there were several surfaces that looked like the might make realy good routes, but were covered with lichen, the brown kind with big "leaves", that held a inch thick layer of pine needles on the vertical-to-slab surfaces. I'm thinking, rapel with the grigri (or autoblock) and bring a big stiff-bristled brush or broom, (not a wire brush). opinions?
There will be alot of work to do on the 6th, we will appreciate all the help we can get. some of the approach trails are blocked by deadfall and all have a thick layer of pine needles and leaves, so they are a bit precarious, and of course there's the aforementioned broken glass everywhere, most of which is around the main crag.
annoyingly, when we were leaving (we closed the place as usual, leaving a bit after actual sundown) there were a group of about ten people in their early twenties/late teens who were obvoiusly there to begin their evening partying.
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Aug 25, 2003, 3:19 PM
Post #1154 of 22774
(523326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
Hey,
I was at CR yesterday with Steph and Gilly... we had all kinds of fun
Steph got up to the undercling on Militant right but couldnt figure out the chimney move. we all worked on Flunked again.. right of the crack 5.10 only Gilly got most of the way up.. i got halfway up but my footwork was failing me. we're off to RIRG wed night :)
Rob how do you know what the new Boston rocks book says about Lookout?? you have it? have you been holding out on us?
Jake
|
|
|
|
|
robbovius
Aug 25, 2003, 4:20 PM
Post #1155 of 22774
(523326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 20, 2002
Posts: 8406
|
Jake sounds like a good time at CR. Shane adn I have both wanted to check LR out since I heard about it last month. it's a decent place, needs some work. it was kinda neat being the only climbers there yesteday, though it'd be fun to get a group there for an afternoon. access to the routes isn't nearly as easy as CR. There's some serious class 4 scrambling you've got to do in a couple places to get to the crag bottom.
No, I don't have the new BR guide, I traded a few e-mails about LR with Rich Doucette, the editor of the new guide, and he gave me directions to the place and clued me into the routes that had been FA'd there. Climbing there yesteday made me feel like I was in the jungle uncovering some long-lost ruins. the rock is VERY different in character from CR, or the quarries. VERY rough, knobbly, few sharp edges to the cracks. The surface is very abrasive.
I'm gonna make that one of my weekly climbing stops I think. so at least one of us has beta about the place. Binerman (jim) from NERockclub (we've met him at CR too) has climbed there, knows it a bit.
|
|
|
|
|
gilly
Aug 25, 2003, 4:55 PM
Post #1156 of 22774
(523326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 4, 2003
Posts: 225
|
In reply to: Hey, I was at CR yesterday with Steph and Gilly... we had all kinds of fun Steph got up to the undercling on Militant right but couldnt figure out the chimney move. we all worked on Flunked again.. right of the crack 5.10 only Gilly got most of the way up.. i got halfway up but my footwork was failing me. we're off to RIRG wed night :) Rob how do you know what the new Boston rocks book says about Lookout?? you have it? have you been holding out on us? Jake
Jake, Gilly here. You forgot Cathy, who was having an off day but kept trying (kudo's ); and Dan ( I think ) who did "flunked" 3 times. He and I are of the opinion that using the large left side-pull mid-way up the crack is off-route. There is a smaller side-pull to the right of the large one that works too, and because the route is a 10 ,........
Anyway, just my $.02 . I will probably join you at RI this Wednesday; my girlfriend is visiting this weekend, so I doubt if I'd get climbing otherwise.
See you then.
|
|
|
|
|
uasunflower
Aug 25, 2003, 4:59 PM
Post #1157 of 22774
(523326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 11, 2003
Posts: 1563
|
hey,
I really thought i'd make it out to CR this w-end, but it didn't work out (again), although for good reasons: some friends of mine went to Rumney for the w-end on last day's notice and I couldn't resist the opportunity :P
the weather was just splendid, and despite long driving we had lots of fun climbing - 5-6 hours (until it was really dark and i lost my ATC :cry: ) on Saturday at the Parking Lot wall - good 5.6s, 5.7s, 5.8s and even a 5.10 with a great overhang (i cheated, but got to the top anyway :twisted: )
Being totally sore yesterday, did some awesome 5.3s, 5.8s and 5.10s (that one was really bad, with a layback, overhangs etc so i didn't manage it at all....next time....) on the Main wall. This wall is soooo big and impressive at some places (all 5.12 and higher routes) that it almost discourages one from climbing!..)
For this week - who is up for QQ on wednesday? Robb, Jason, Chad - are you in (climbing QQ without you wouldn't feel right :lol: ) ? I might go there thursday as well. Do you want to have another BBQ? - i have some corn left from this w-end and might bring dessert if someone else provides cooking gear and alcohol. I should probably get to Hammond Pond tomorrow after work.
have fun,
|
|
|
|
|
robbovius
Aug 25, 2003, 5:28 PM
Post #1158 of 22774
(523326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 20, 2002
Posts: 8406
|
Yuliya!
QQ wednesday? of course!!!! I am SO there...I even cleaned the grill off a bit. I do believe that shilling and grilling is most assuredly part of the plan for tis wednesday...I hope I can get there early enough to set up on the arette, I want to work laps on that thing...
Shane will be there too wed. as far as I know.
OH BTW, you guys the Adopt-a-Crag thread for Lookout got moved to the access forum...
|
|
|
|
|
wideguy
Aug 25, 2003, 8:02 PM
Post #1159 of 22774
(523326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 9, 2003
Posts: 15045
|
I'm in for Wed. w/ bbq. Got a brand new can of Deep Woods Off, should get ME through the night. Dunno bout the rest of you though...
|
|
|
|
|
orangekyak
Aug 25, 2003, 8:59 PM
Post #1160 of 22774
(523326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 1832
|
hey rob, thanks for the update on Lookout Rock. I'd like to go there next week, perhaps next wednesday (the 3rd) in the evening. Would anyone (esp. Rob) like to go? I'll bring gear and maybe we can do a new FA or two (if there's room)? My schedule's pretty tight and hectic with the new teaching job. First day is tomorrow so I'm pretty overwhelmed. Anyway, if anyone is in for next weds, let me know.
jeremy
|
|
|
|
|
tcollins
Aug 25, 2003, 9:14 PM
Post #1161 of 22774
(523326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 25, 2002
Posts: 999
|
Jer, good luck tomorrow. I'm sure it'll go great. Caryn finally got a job too last thursday.
|
|
|
|
|
ejclimb
Aug 25, 2003, 9:27 PM
Post #1162 of 22774
(523326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 30, 2003
Posts: 58
|
Just so everyones knows there is gonna be a sweet climbing party Oct. 28th 5-12 at RIRG, sponsored by the access fund, theres gonna be raffles, a climbing video premier, DJ's, and fun stuff like dyno comps.
EJ
|
|
|
|
|
nurocks
Aug 25, 2003, 11:57 PM
Post #1163 of 22774
(523326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 19, 2003
Posts: 788
|
Hello, just wondering if anyone will be at hammond tomorrow willing to share a rope? I'll be there around 5ish. If not, I could def. use the practice bouldering. Second, I will see you guys (Rob, Julia and chad) on weds. without doubt at QQ. Should be nice weather too. Can't wait...I worked a few hours this weekend...(26 hours)...and couldn't find the time to get out climbing. Can you imagine? See you all soon.
|
|
|
|
|
robbovius
Aug 26, 2003, 1:05 AM
Post #1164 of 22774
(523326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 20, 2002
Posts: 8406
|
Jer, yeah I'd defeinitely be into heading out to LR next wed night. I want to try to make that part of my weekly climbing circuit (CR, QQ, LR on various nights & the weekend) simply so we can clean routes and FA stuff.
one of the folks from NERockclub who's coming out the 6th is going to talk to the park rangers to see if they'd let us do a bit of developmenrt of the approach trails (clearing deadfall, turning old fallen trees into log steps, etc) some of which are kinda precarious to get down.
good luck at the new day gig BTW.
I'll be at CR tomorrow from like 5:00 to 7:30 with Shane, and then wed night for the MC QQ party! LOL!
|
|
|
|
|
berger
Aug 26, 2003, 2:05 AM
Post #1165 of 22774
(523326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 14, 2003
Posts: 21
|
Count me in for QQ on Weds. Need me to bring anything?
|
|
|
|
|
uasunflower
Aug 26, 2003, 12:21 PM
Post #1166 of 22774
(523326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 11, 2003
Posts: 1563
|
hey,
Jason, I should be at HP today with some other folks - Steve, Donna, Kevin, my boyfriend even has a chance of showing up!
I should be there by 6, or later as it's pretty far from my work. I guess others might be there a bit earlier, but you'll definitely be able to share a rope one way or another.
BTW, we are on the first wall from the Bloomingdale parking lot, before the lake. Hope you can make it.
Rob - are you thinking of ever coming to Hammond???
See you at QQ anyway tomorrow.
|
|
|
|
|
seeker
Aug 26, 2003, 12:55 PM
Post #1167 of 22774
(523326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 9, 2003
Posts: 39
|
hi guys,
i was going to make the long trek to BRG tomorrow night, but it sounds like if i show up at the quarry at 5 i should be able to find someone to climb with, eh? under the big top, anyone? :wink:
|
|
|
|
|
robbovius
Aug 26, 2003, 1:10 PM
Post #1168 of 22774
(523326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 20, 2002
Posts: 8406
|
In reply to: hey, Rob - are you thinking of ever coming to Hammond??? See you at QQ anyway tomorrow.
Julia, yeah, but mondays and tuesdays (thursday too) I have to pick up my daughter Caitlin from cheerleading at 7:30, so unless I can work out a ride home for her and her friend (who's dad drives them to cheering) I have to stick close to home, and that means CR.
I'll see what I can work out for next week, but I ain't makin' any promises ;-)
seeker, that would be a big YEAH! we have been congregating at the L and M faces (the big prow that's straight ahead as you walk into the quarries)
headed out of work now, be at CR at abotu 5:30 pm. FYI
|
|
|
|
|
nurocks
Aug 27, 2003, 12:50 PM
Post #1169 of 22774
(523326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 19, 2003
Posts: 788
|
i've got some burgers, bread, catsup and some cheese. Please someone remember the grill, and if your super cool a spatula as well. I look forward to climbing QQ tonight, I had a regressive experience at best last night at hammond. I just couldn't get my a$$( i hate stupid internetisms like a$$, but why do I have a feeling it would be edited hiney or something like that if i typed a$$) in gear. After about 10 or so attempts I resigned my self to belay. As a positve note, I did get to catch a couple falls and no one hit the ground. Thanks again Steve, Jason, Yulia and Kevin. All others your names escape me...Please don't be mad. Any way, I will be at QQ tonight between 4-5. I hope I'll have company.
|
|
|
|
|
robbovius
Aug 27, 2003, 2:11 PM
Post #1170 of 22774
(523326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 20, 2002
Posts: 8406
|
Jason, last night I put both a spatula and tongs in the grill and put both that and the propane cylinder out in the car, so we're golden!
I'm bringing a couple of battery lanterns too, though last week after our eyes adjusted it was cool looking up at the stars. I should be there about 4:30 hopefully.
see you all there!
|
|
|
|
|
elliemae
Aug 27, 2003, 2:12 PM
Post #1171 of 22774
(523326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2003
Posts: 20
|
Hey everyone,
Stephanie here (One of Gilly's usual climbing partners) I just wanted to say hi and let y'all know that I finally registered on rc.com. Is anyone planning on climbing Sunday? I want to head back to college rock and give flunked again another try. :)
~Stephanie
|
|
|
|
|
wideguy
Aug 27, 2003, 2:44 PM
Post #1172 of 22774
(523326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 9, 2003
Posts: 15045
|
Hey there!!! Any of you all hitting QQ tonight got a telescope you can pack along? Mars is at it's absolute closest tonight!! There's alot of city light but we'd be looking southeast away from it. I wanna see this thing but there's no hills near home. The top of QQ peak could be AWESOME!!!! I'm not really an astronomy buff but this is supposed to be pretty cool.
Just a thought
|
|
|
|
|
robbovius
Aug 27, 2003, 3:29 PM
Post #1173 of 22774
(523326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 20, 2002
Posts: 8406
|
Hey Steph!!! If the weathah cooperates, I should be able to get to CR sometime sunday. My oldest daughter may be joining us (15 years old) hopefully.
Wide, I've got a pair of 50x binocs I will try to remember. that do? I've got a telescope too, but it's only 50x and I dunno if I can find the eyepiece...
BTW to ALL MC-ers...I just added Lookout Rock to the Routes DB with a few topo pics, though it may take a day for the pics to get approved. Directions are there!
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Aug 27, 2003, 5:09 PM
Post #1174 of 22774
(523326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
Hey
I'm down for sunday...
but as for tonight? anyone going past me on 495 (exit 21b) on their way to the Pike want pick me up ?? i was going to RI but plans have changed
plus i haven't climbed with a bunch of the people going tonight so it would be cool to meet the new folks
ummm toss me a PM or reply to this whichever I"LL BRING DIGI CAM AND WILL MAKE YOU LOOK "AWEEEESOMMEEEEEEE"
Jake
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Aug 28, 2003, 12:25 AM
Post #1175 of 22774
(523326 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
Welllllll since QQ wasn't going to be part of my plans anyway (things came up after i posted before) i decided to go blast my forearms with some traversing at CR... Soooo i got from the chimney where you start Exercise Left to almost the end going right... then i started under Send money and went left up over the big flake (ahh nice rest up there) stopping at the "wave" little more playin around and called it pumped til possibly tomorrow cuz i'm trying to get my crimping muscles back in shape... no invisible crashpad use to be noted tonight.. close but i jumped off before i fell :mrgreen:
Sunday sunday sunday! if weather is nice looks like me, steph, shane... probably more i'm sure. If the ropes set up nice i'm up for some gri gri hanging picture taking 8)
Jake
|
|
|
|
|
|
