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desertgranite
Nov 21, 2003, 9:21 PM
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Check out Wild Country Rocks, they rock. Screw the hexes and double up on some cams, you'll never look back. Spectra all the way, I've found cuts in my double length nylon slings twice this last year and replaced them all with spectra, it's worth the extra money, don't listen to the naysayers.
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superbum
Nov 21, 2003, 10:42 PM
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You don't need to buy the full set of Huevos...unless you are planning on aid climbing. Save ten bucks and go with the smaller set (4-13). That's what I got and I luv em!
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timstich
Nov 21, 2003, 10:52 PM
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In reply to: I favor the Frankenstein rack: some of everything. Every cam has its pluses and negatives...
Heh, heh. I often say that to myself to muster up some pride for my Frankenstein rack. Just added a #4 Metolius 4-cam unit bootied from Happy Hour Crag last weekend. Unfortunately, it's a bit bent up after previous attempts by others to clean it. The main wires are a bit bent at the swags. It will go nicely with my other used Metolius cams that are barely usable.
So what's the crummiest/most useless piece of old gear you have on your rack, madmax?
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valygrl
Nov 21, 2003, 10:52 PM
Post #29 of 45
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Never climbed at Seneca, but I would consider picking up a set of HB Offset nuts. They rule in the valley. I prefer Aliens to TCU's, and either of those to micro camelots.
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braaaaaaaadley
Nov 21, 2003, 10:56 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Dont buy bd spectra slings or the enduro's for that matter. Buy sewn slings made of climbers spec nylon and pair them up with ovals to make a trad draw. A lot cheaper and more durable than the spectra/ enduro combo. I have some spectra slings from bd and they frey awfully quickly and are expensive compared to the nylon ones that are a lot cheaper. I have several spectra slings and have been happy with them for certain usages since they are lighter and provide less clutter when used at belay stations. However the fraying point is accurate. The other major drawback is that they are not suitable for friction knots like a prusik, kleimheist or autoblock for things like ascending or backing up a rappel.
If you want to go spectra, go bluewater. Their spectra slings are both incredibly strong(27kn) and incredibly durrable. And they won't cost much more than the black diamond ones. But the majority of my slings are nylon and i have no problems with them.
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sfclimber
Nov 22, 2003, 12:05 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: I have several spectra slings ... The other major drawback is that they are not suitable for friction knots like a prusik, kleimheist or autoblock for things like ascending or backing up a rappel. I read this more or less everywhere, but I just don't find it to be true. I've ascended a rope on multiple occasions on spectra slings, or most of the time, one spectra sling and a gibbs ascender. I've never had a problem getting spectra to grip the rope more than adequately. Don't take that as encouragement to do it. Maybe it's a catastrophically bad idea. I'm just expressing my puzzlement that it seems to work so well for me and spares me carrying extra stuff just for that purpose.
It's not a question of will a spectra sling work, it will - for a while. The problem is that the spectra has a much lower melting point than perlon cord and thus will melt through. If you shock load spectra in a friction knot that does not catch right away (it is a little more slippery), or even just repeatedly slide it up a rope too often it can melt through, or at least enough to seriously compromise its strength.
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studs
Nov 22, 2003, 5:56 AM
Post #32 of 45
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My advice.Ya, Double up on cams.Camalots weigh alot and on a long or even short pitch u often need doubles or more.Friends are still the best bang for the buck.Hexes make great paperweights.Go for a thinner rope .they dont break.
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catbiter
Nov 22, 2003, 6:06 AM
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This is my first year of climbing, but I dumped every penny into my rack which is a full set of Metolious power cams (don't use the bigger ones much) and a set of Wild Country nuts. When we go to Seneca we double up on the 1-5 sizes on the cams and take as many nuts as we can. (community rack) Every time we get to the top of a pitch there is always plenty of gear left. Most of the climbs 5.6 and lower eat up the gear. If you are putting gear every 10 foot or so, you should be okay with what you have listed. Can't wait for spring!!!!
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jimdavis
Nov 22, 2003, 7:23 AM
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Second set of nuts, Metolius IMO.
HB Dynemma Helmet.
Aliens rather than smaller BD's.
Tech Friends to fill in/ overlap Camalots.
Go wiregates instead. Dovals for cams, Hotwires and Trango Lightweights for draws.
Go nylon for cordelettes.
Nylon or Mammut Dynemma slings. Def. Dynemma for double length.
2 prussiks.
Ascenders if you can see your self using them. Petzls are the best.
Tri-Cams up to a 2, w/ 2 Pinks.
Metolius Hexes, though i'm sure people will disagree.
Enduro lockers, Airlock 2's, and a bunch of other lockers.
Also, i'd say get a gri-gri and know how and when to use it. They're invaluable in MANY circumstances.
hope this helps.
Jim
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caughtinside
Nov 25, 2003, 9:53 PM
Post #35 of 45
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Get your rack yet, Moeman?
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kai_da_klimba
Nov 27, 2003, 10:16 PM
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Registered: Sep 20, 2003
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ah, I get to fantasize about my ideal (starting) rack...
Cams:
green Alien (#1 TCU) to #4 Camalot.
doubles of #1 and #2 camalot size are nice.
skip the 3.5 since it's range is covered by the #3 and #4.
BD are nice for #1 up, but I also like DMM 4CUs, and as this is
a first set, Tech Friends or Flex Cams might also be an option.
Aliens for small cams, TCUs if you must, but not BD.
Small = Alien green, yellow.
Smaller ones are too rarely used IMHO to
go on a starting rack. Skip the TCU 0, 00 and get the
#4 Camalot instead, the easier you climb the stronger I'd advise this.
The #4 is spendy but where this one works,
nothing else will so it's real nice to have.
For sizes equivalent to 0.5 and 0.75 Camalot, I can't decide.
Aliens, TCUs, and BD are nice here I think, but get Aliens if
Aid might be in the future.
All go on their own, light biner: Trango Lightweight wiregate (cheap and great) or even the
newest Trango which at 30 g is the lightest ever. Neutrinos are more expensive at a smaller gate
opening, and Dovals can be annoying cuz you don't know which side is which.
Tricams:
the 3-4 smallest, and maybe the #5
The smaller ones go on a keylock Oval biner (Petzl or Kong), the big one has its own like my
cams.
Nuts:
a full set and later you will want more esp. in the smaller
sizes e.g. #1-5 DMM, and then a full second set.
DMM are my favorites, but by a small margin. Get what you want.
Rack on oval keylock biner.
Maybe a few larger brass nuts: HB offsets.
Nut tool:
Get one that has a bottom side that you can hit with your palm.
DMM with plastic handle, Metolius Freenut (?), or the ones with
a double hook at the bottom in a pinch.
Rack with prusik cord.
Slings:
Yes, get Spectra/Dyneema shoulder length and triple,
but go for the 8 mm by DMM or Wild Country or Mammut.
Trango Lightweight Wiregates at the bottom, same or Positrons (such a nice biner) for the top.
Also get 1-2 double shoulder length slings, and some lockers:
2 Positron Screwgate
2 large pear shaped Screwgate (Omega Jake, Petzl Williams, BD Airlock...)
double if your partner doesn't have the same.
Cordalette or two if your partner doesn't have one (20 ft. 6 mm cord)
Try the helmet on and see which one you prefer, I like the Petzl Ecrin for the way you can adjust the size while you wear it: from tight (climb) to relaxed (belay).
Hold off on the gear sling for now, rack on your harness or a shoulder length sling.
Mammut ropes are the best, that's from 14 years of climbing experience ...
Enjoy !!!
And post your feedback...
Kai
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vegastradguy
Nov 28, 2003, 5:15 PM
Post #37 of 45
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what karl said. although i do love my #3.5 camalot.
:)
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straightedgeteen
Dec 2, 2003, 4:12 AM
Post #38 of 45
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In reply to: Ok, so I know this thread has been done countless times, but I'm about to plunk down a crapload of money on trad gear, so I want some advice. Also, I've decided to just go all out with this; for the first time ever, I have $1000+ that I can use for whatever I want, and I've decided to get something useful (a rack) before it slowly starts to seep away for useless junk. So far i've bought almost nothing, but heres what I'm planning to buy: PRO 6 Camalots: sizes 0.5-3 (maybe 3.5?) 6 TCU's: sizes 00-4 12 Huevos: full set (1-13) 2 Tricams: Pink, Red Other Stuff 15 Draws (shoulder length tripled, BD spectra slings and Enduro biners) Bluewater 10.2 mm 60m dry rope 2 cordellettes Black Diamond Half Dome helmet Gear Sling Nut tool So, what'd ya think? I will be climbing some long multi-pitch in Seneca this coming spring, if that helps any. Comments? Should I getmore nuts and tricams? Less cams? Hexes? Also, what so I need doubles in?
Im not a fan of TCU's i like aliens aloooooot better !!!!!!!!!
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jimdavis
Dec 2, 2003, 5:47 AM
Post #39 of 45
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I liked the TCU's on aid, but I don't care for them on trad. Aliens ARE the shiz. And for cordalette, go 7mm instead of 6mm.
The Metolius Curved nuts are also worth getting along with a set of ABC/ BD/ WC nuts.
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kimherlee
Dec 5, 2003, 7:55 PM
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I like my rack just the way it is i guess some poeple are born with a nice one then some have to buy them.
Kim
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igsaisb
Dec 5, 2003, 9:02 PM
Post #41 of 45
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Registered: Oct 23, 2002
Posts: 61
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TCU vs. Aliens.
Since you are likely to double up at some point and are buying TCUs cheap now, target the Aliens when you get to it.
I carry both in the smaller sizes and like 'em both. There are occasions where the TCUs go somewhere I just can't seem to get the Aliens and there are times (horizontal cracks) where I prefer the Aliens.
Good luck.
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robmcc
Dec 5, 2003, 9:05 PM
Post #42 of 45
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In reply to: I like my rack just the way it is i guess some poeple are born with a nice one then some have to buy them. Kim
:roll:
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cracklover
Dec 5, 2003, 9:20 PM
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In reply to: I like my rack just the way it is i guess some poeple are born with a nice one then some have to buy them. Kim
Betcha kimherlee's really a man.
This thread is dead... unless the original poster comes back to say what he wound up buying and how he likes it.
GO
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robmcc
Dec 5, 2003, 9:21 PM
Post #44 of 45
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In reply to: Betcha kimherlee's really a man.
Seconded. :wink:
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madmax
Dec 5, 2003, 11:26 PM
Post #45 of 45
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Registered: Oct 23, 2003
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So what's the crummiest/most useless piece of old gear you have on your rack, madmax?
hmmm, tough question. Maybe its the green alien that requires two hands to use, or maybe its the pink tri-cam that has no more edge and is shaped like an egg.
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