|
climb_plastic
Feb 25, 2004, 6:29 PM
Post #26 of 48
(4318 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 24, 2003
Posts: 706
|
The ones where if you mess up the sequence it makes it very hard to do. They make you think first rather than just muscle your way up.
|
|
|
|
|
climb_plastic
Feb 25, 2004, 6:54 PM
Post #27 of 48
(4318 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 24, 2003
Posts: 706
|
The ones where if you mess up the sequence it makes it very hard to do. They make you think first rather than just muscle your way up.
|
|
|
|
|
jhump
Feb 25, 2004, 7:19 PM
Post #28 of 48
(4318 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 7, 2002
Posts: 602
|
The mostest funnerest route in the gym has a cool name and an ego padding grade. Or did you want to know what the morest funnestest route is? In that case it is the one where chicks can eye your thang bestest.
|
|
|
|
|
grabngrip
Feb 25, 2004, 7:49 PM
Post #29 of 48
(4318 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 28, 2003
Posts: 252
|
i love juggy overhangs and roofs
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
Feb 25, 2004, 9:51 PM
Post #30 of 48
(4318 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
overhanging technical slopery stuff.
|
|
|
|
|
hardmanknott
Feb 26, 2004, 9:23 PM
Post #31 of 48
(4318 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 15, 2003
Posts: 228
|
The only indoor route worth thinking about is the one to her bedroom
Hardman Knott
|
|
|
|
|
pany
Feb 26, 2004, 9:53 PM
Post #32 of 48
(4318 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 25, 2003
Posts: 2
|
well i really think that gym's just as fun as outdoors ! i love them both
|
|
|
|
|
andy_reagan
Feb 26, 2004, 9:54 PM
Post #33 of 48
(4318 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 12, 2004
Posts: 1075
|
interesting ones. It doesnt matter what. Just interest me and I will have fun. That means crux dyno moves near the top of the climb, changing from one type of a hold to another, routes that encourage technique, etc.
I like the good bouldering problems better than the good routes though :lol:
|
|
|
|
|
superfox
Feb 26, 2004, 10:12 PM
Post #34 of 48
(4318 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 24, 2003
Posts: 141
|
The biggest mistake gyms can make is making a crimp / jug / sloper ladder, using only one type of hold. It is simple to make a hard route using the smallest holds posible, but hard to make a hard route that uses relatively good holds. Put feet out in awkward positions, use small jibs, etc. The most important thing, however, is to make the routes technical. Especially cool moves are heelhooks, hand-foot matching, changing hand positions on one hold (such as crimp from the bottom, match with a sidepull, and stand up to readjust to an undercling). If at all possible, try to fit in a figure-four at the lip of a roof, that is (in my opinion) the coolest move in climbing.
|
|
|
|
|
litleclimberchick
Feb 26, 2004, 10:34 PM
Post #35 of 48
(4318 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 13, 2003
Posts: 1254
|
i love crimpy problems where technoique is required in order to finish them. :D
|
|
|
|
|
wandt
Feb 26, 2004, 10:57 PM
Post #36 of 48
(4318 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 3, 2000
Posts: 341
|
Jugs 8" apart. And all with the juggy part up (no side-pulls or underclings). Everyone loves those routes. I've found that whenever I set something using crimp, slopers, two-finger-pockets, etc. or anything that you might need to think, get your feet up and stretch for people whine at me. So... make every hold really big and easy to hold onto and make them all REALLY close together.
That said, I personally like giant static moves to stuff that you'll fall off of if you try to deadpoint.
|
|
|
|
|
wildduck
Mar 3, 2004, 3:26 PM
Post #37 of 48
(4318 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 12, 2003
Posts: 186
|
hehehe~
i guess some technical would be nice too...
something that'll make you start thinking... "how now ?"
like... tangling youself up ? legs here... hands cross here... u know ?
|
|
|
|
|
elcommunisto
Mar 8, 2004, 12:02 PM
Post #38 of 48
(4318 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 18, 2004
Posts: 26
|
My gym just put up a great route. It's been quite popular, since the first move is a LOOONG dyno move. I'm a pretty tall guy with orangutan arms, and it's a stretch even for me. After you get to the second hold, it's sort of like climbing a really wide, shallow chimney, and then another big dyno at the top. I was there the other day, and I only saw one person make it up the first time. I earned myself a nasty blister on one finger for my trying it four times. Not to mention some nice strap shaped bruises in my leg from falling a few feet before the auto-belayer kicked in. :)
Aside from that route, I love routes with an overhang or two in them. I'm still having problems with 5.9s, so I'm not real sure about crimp holds.
EC
|
|
|
|
|
straightedgeteen
Mar 25, 2004, 12:14 AM
Post #39 of 48
(4318 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 8, 2002
Posts: 367
|
most definitly the ones that make you think !
|
|
|
|
|
j_dub
Apr 6, 2004, 7:21 PM
Post #40 of 48
(4318 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 3, 2004
Posts: 142
|
As a newbie who had a rough first day and was initially terrified of heights, i'll put in my $.02. We have a HUGE gym.. so there is tons of really technical, hard stuff (85ft lead routes that go up on the ceiling, something like 100 topropes..) When you're setting routes, please make sure there is a nice progression from 5.7s on up, so that people who are just starting out and can't get outside until it warms up can move their way up in difficulty (building strength) without getting stuck in a gym where everything is incredibly hard. For me, just being able to get up a few walls - not routes, just WALLS - was a BIG breakthrough. I got the confidence I needed to try harder stuff and not be scared.
I LOVE trying the overhangs and lips and stuff, but it's still hard for me, and it is just really nice to know that the gym has several slabs I know I can get up. They have a variety of holds - from jugs to crimps to chips to slopers to 3 finger holds - and require thought and sometimes some big reaches and precarious footholds to make it up... you can also do some cool balancey practice on them, so they're not just for newbies. AND the slabs have set routes on them, so you can either mess around and use all the holds or try the 5.10a with really tricky holds.
Also, 'easier' routes are great warmups.. and are good for the last climb of a long night of climbing and especially after you fell repeatedly trying that dyno on an overhang 30 feet up and you and your belayer are too pumped to stand.. It means we can climb for LONGER, because we can go back and do a 'rest' route on one of the slabs, so the elvis legs don't set in for at least a few hours, anyways. I think that's important for building strength initially. Just climbing and pacing yourself a bit and being able to climb all night.
I guess my point is that 'easy' routes don't have to be boring or dumb. I definitely have to think my way up those slabs. Make sure there are some routes for folks who are starting climbing but aren't yet behemoths of strength. It's just WAY more fun to be able to do challenging stuff that you can accomplish with significant effort and thought than routes you have no hope of sending. That said, I cannot wait to get back to the gym so I can try some of the harder routes this weekend!
|
|
|
|
|
slablizard
Apr 6, 2004, 7:37 PM
Post #41 of 48
(4318 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 13, 2003
Posts: 5558
|
Hate the typical 5.9...V5...5.9 route so easy for the setter, so inconsistent for the climber.
Or the ones hard just becasue bethween hold A and B there's a huge distance and no footholds :wink:
|
|
|
|
|
crazyjoe234
Apr 6, 2004, 7:45 PM
Post #42 of 48
(4318 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 15
|
A 45 foot cieling route that your only aloud to campus *LoL*. Dude just set a route man and someone will DEFINITLY climb it. Everyone has their own standards on how much fun a route is. lata_Skata
-CrAzY
|
|
|
|
|
crazyjoe234
Apr 6, 2004, 7:47 PM
Post #43 of 48
(4318 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 15
|
I just moved here last week and AZontheRocks in the Phoenix area.....awesome gym. Lots of fun routes there. reminds me of Seattle rock gyms.
|
|
|
|
|
katanaman
Apr 7, 2004, 9:34 PM
Post #44 of 48
(4318 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 31, 2004
Posts: 143
|
if im feeling lazy i like to work technical problems requiring lots of balance and footwork, but on an adrenaline pumping crazy climb day i like to do routes with serious dynos and sketchy mantles and stuff:)
|
|
|
|
|
arrettinator
Apr 7, 2004, 9:57 PM
Post #45 of 48
(4318 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 30, 2002
Posts: 8522
|
I-79 from Grove City to Pittsburgh. :roll:
|
|
|
|
|
sd
Apr 7, 2004, 10:50 PM
Post #46 of 48
(4318 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 29, 2004
Posts: 30
|
Surely you know different people like alternative styles of routes :P
Personally I like boulder problems with powerful moves. Go and ask the regulars at the gym what sort of new routes they want, there's probably a few who wouldn't mind creating their own new routes free of charge for you.
|
|
|
|
|
gogo
Apr 9, 2004, 4:24 AM
Post #47 of 48
(4318 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 198
|
I'd have to go with routes that have really interesting sequences (the last indoor route I set had three hand-foot matches in a row), or poweful, dynamic boulder problems that require many jumps in a row (so that the result is if you get the problem wired, you can bounce around the bouldering cave like a monkey).
Aside from these two, really technical boulder problems on small slopers and crimps, b/c they force me to work on my feet.
|
|
|
|
|
photon
Apr 9, 2004, 5:04 AM
Post #48 of 48
(4318 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 31, 2002
Posts: 543
|
the funnest one would be the last one you have to do, when the weather is starting to get nice and you know you won't pull another move on plastic for many many months..
|
|
|
|
|
|
