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swordfish
Apr 23, 2006, 4:38 PM
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Hey Spain sojourners and crankers
I have been on escuelasdeescalada.com which is a very helpful site. But I would like some opinions as well. We fly into Barcelona, then would like to head south, staying near the water.
Heading south from Barcelona this is what I am thinking of visiting
1. Montserrat (Barcelona)
2. espiel (Cordoba)
3. Vados (Granada)
Can you recommend some good climbing closer to the coast between Barcelona and malaga ?
I will be looking for crags with good 5.8-5.11 climbing (is this V-6c?)
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maxdacat
Apr 23, 2006, 7:00 PM
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you would do well to check out Costa Daurada as well which is 2hrs south west of Barcalona.....loads of great areas including the very famous Siurana. Also Costa Blanca has loads as well.....it's probably 5 or so hrs south of Barca but i'm not sure since i've always flown in.....it has great areas such as Sella, Toix, Gandia etc.
Best guide for both is the Rockfax one see their site which has an online database of all these areas:
www.rockfax.com
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maxdacat
Apr 23, 2006, 7:02 PM
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and all of these areas have load in the grade range you mentioned which is approx 6a to 7a.
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kalcario
Apr 23, 2006, 7:33 PM
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Sella is an excellent area, all grades, east of Alicante near La Villa Joyosa. In Spain the locals attempt to recoup the cost of equiping the crags with guidebook sales and they prefer you buy those instead of the Rockfax guides. I found the Rockfax guide for El Chorro and the Costa Blanca to be an absolute joke with ridiculous crag and route descriptions that bore no relation to reality, driving "maps" had no highway numbers, and worst of all the snide commentary about local route ethics in a guide which profits from publicizing those routes without recompensing the people who equipped them in the first place. Buy the local guides.
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cliffwoman
Apr 23, 2006, 9:39 PM
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El Chorro near Granada! great range of routes
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swordfish
Apr 23, 2006, 11:39 PM
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Thanks for some of those good comments. keep them coming. I didn't realize how vast the climbing is in Spain. I have climbed Austria, Germany and Italy, but I would have made a trip here earlier if I hadn't been so clueless. This is gonna be fun.
What about Montanejos (Costa Blanca region). This seems like a good area.
Is El Chorro still a good area? sounds like the walkways are falling apart.
And what do you think of Malaga, I have heard its an "unsafe" town. any truth to this?
El chorro sounds good, as there is surfing is nearby as well.
thanks again, Mark
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viciado
Apr 23, 2006, 11:50 PM
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Monserrat is excellent. If you are going just to climb, you could stay there for your whole time and be very content. Its all there and you don't have to waste gas/travel money. If you're going to see the country and climb, that's another story.
As for Málaga, I would suggest hooking up with a local. On rc.com, "astur" has a good reputation. I was supposed to get with him last summer, but my schedule didn't work. He was very helpful and speaks English. I don't know pedroj, but either one of them would be worth sending a pm.
If you get into Portugal after July, send me a pm.
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maxdacat
Apr 24, 2006, 4:54 PM
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In reply to: In Spain the locals attempt to recoup the cost of equiping the crags with guidebook sales and they prefer you buy those instead of the Rockfax guides. I found the Rockfax guide for El Chorro and the Costa Blanca to be an absolute joke with ridiculous crag and route descriptions that bore no relation to reality, driving "maps" had no highway numbers, and worst of all the snide commentary about local route ethics in a guide which profits from publicizing those routes without recompensing the people who equipped them in the first place. Buy the local guides.
this is a question i put to the Rockfax guys here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/...t=174295&v=1#2500586
i am not sure (based on wht they told me) that i'd agree with you. first of all their guides are top notch and have always got me to the crag (at least for Blanca & Daurada).....they cover both sports and trad routes and name first ascentionists where possible.
Of my last trip to Spain - £15 went to the rockfax boys and at least £200 into the local economy in various climbing areas.....which is more important?
If i had limited time and wanted to visit a number of different crags i'd spring for the rockfax any day....they also publish an overview in two languages other than English and provide a write-up of all the other local guides saying to buy these if you are visiting any of the areas in depth....can't ask for fairer than that.
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timl
Apr 24, 2006, 5:07 PM
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When will you be coming to Spain? I can tell you Madrid is starting to get hot right now? Soon, it will almost be too hot to climb down south int he Costa Blana. On the other hand, Montserrat is amazing!
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swordfish
Apr 24, 2006, 5:40 PM
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Arriving May 10th, departing May 31st.
I understand that it will be over 20 degrees when we are there.
The average temperature in spain in may, in the south is under 25, I believe. any differing opinions on temp?
okay, another question. I am from the "cold" north, where the only critters that can cause havoc are 500 lbs and growl. I have climbed in Jtree in january, and skaha in the spring when there arent any snakes and so around.What sort of critters exist in spain. And should I be prepared in some way? such as snakes and other slimy things?
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yokese
Apr 24, 2006, 5:51 PM
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The only venom snakes in Spain are some vipers, but encounters with them are extremely uncommon. I know there are also black widow spiders (actually, "imported" from the USA), but I haven't seen one in my whole life. There are also scorpions, but way smaller and harmless than the ones you may find in the USA. Actually, the most dangerous animal you can face is a bee nest (regular bees, not those damn african ones). Ah!, and depending on the area you climb, mosquitos. Anyways, you very well can leave the survival kit at home.
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herbaltee
Apr 28, 2006, 5:16 PM
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There is a great Andalucia guide that I saw at the local guide shop in El Chorro. Its has a good range of places and is in both Spanish and English. If you get the crappy rockfax guide use it as a supplemental since it is 5 years out of date.
And climbing in El Chorro is great, I just got back and found that there were enough 6a's to keep me busy for a few weeks. I wouldn't worry too much about the weather, it will get hot but if you climb during the morning then take a siesta and then climb until dark you'll be fine.
I didn't go to the central gorge, but railways look fine to go through since many of the locals were doing it.
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kalcario
May 1, 2006, 9:03 PM
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In reply to: Of my last trip to Spain - £15 went to the rockfax boys and at least £200 into the local economy in various climbing areas.....which is more important? If i had limited time and wanted to visit a number of different crags i'd spring for the rockfax any day....they also publish an overview in two languages other than English and provide a write-up of all the other local guides saying to buy these if you are visiting any of the areas in depth....can't ask for fairer than that.
If Rockfax channelled their guide revenue back to the Spanish crag developers, I'd call that fair.
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fugaz
May 5, 2006, 12:02 PM
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hi!
im living in the espiel area and thats probably one of the best crags in grades betwen 5-7c, its well known as a beginners crag, more then 300 routes! good lines of heights 15-30meters. it maybe a bit hot under may (20-30º) but if you climb early in the morning until 13h then you swich area to the shady side... and it doesnt get dark before 21h.. you probably enjoy it, cause you can climb more than 20 routes in one day with out moving to much from crag to crag. you also got a swiming pool in "el albergue" (beds, shower, ect) 30 min away!
about Malaga ,you can take it easy no problems with thugs;) el chorro is A MUST! but stay for 2 days, right now you cant cross the railway cause there are guards, and ticket up to 300euros! (but there always some ways to get around) and then head south to Tarifa (Cadiz) there you got the best sandstone, magic lines and allot of bulders 10 min from a tropical beach!!!! its calld San Bartolo, for me one of the best places for great moments, climbing, chilling, surfing, clubing :twisted: and the temp is max 20-25º some days a bit windy...
Have a great trip! :D
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davidbr
May 5, 2006, 11:38 PM
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Have never been to El Chorro, but am planning to go later this month. So, if a person can't cross the bridge, which areas are not accessible?
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fugaz
May 8, 2006, 7:43 AM
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Hello David! all areas in el chorro are available, but you need to walk around or get up early in the morning so you can cross the tunels before the guards come. the survilance hour is 08:00 - 18:00.... normaly, the best thing is to cross at 7 and come back in the night. but if you dont want to cross the tunels, prepare to take a loooong walk :wink:
you can get more info in "El refugio" (the climbers nest in el chorro)
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davidbr
May 11, 2006, 1:48 PM
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Thanks much for the beta. Apprecate it...
Dave
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swordfish
May 16, 2006, 10:24 PM
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Hi spain dudes and dudettes
well i am in granada, it must have been damn near 40 in the town today. but the sierras were cool, with a nice wind up there.
i have a question, el chorro is out of the question if we dont sneak in hey? how long is the alternate hike in?
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swordfish
May 16, 2006, 10:46 PM
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oh yeah, can you point me towards a climbing shop between granada and malaga ? thanks again
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pheekin
May 16, 2006, 11:40 PM
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check out the basque region. onate is awesome.
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davidbr
May 18, 2006, 4:09 PM
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Just got back from El Chorro. You can get everywhere quite easily. Apparently, the rail tunnels are guarded by times, but they aren´t necessary anyway. The Caminito del Rey is passable, and quite safe if you put a harness on at the start of it, and clip a runer into the cable. It´s a via ferrata, and doesn´t take a lot more time than using the rail tunnels.
The guidebook at the shop in El Chorro I found quite good as well.
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swordfish
Jun 2, 2006, 1:52 AM
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I am back from my Spain trip. I would like to give some information for others thinking of going. its always nice to have some opinions.
Spain has a lot of climbing. Top areas based on my experience would be Montserrat.
******Montserrat is a stunning place, unlike anywhere in the world. guidebook available in the bookstore at the monastery, its in Spanish, but it is fairly easy to find it. walk up or take the funicular to the top. most of the principle area climbs start at 2 minutes walk from the top of the funicular.
I used the Andalusia (guia de escalada deportiva) guidebook. Its in English/Spanish by David Munilla and widely available in climbing shops. www.desnivel.com
*****El Torcal is amazing area, and hard climbing. its worth a few days. Its easy to find climbing routes there. you could go with a sport rack, walk around a find the climbs below and to the left of the look out.
***San Bartolo is good, but smaller place. if you are in the area take the time. there is a climbing shop in tarifa. ask at one of the windsurf shops for directions. The women there is very helpful.
****Grazalema is beautiful, and quite good climbing. worth a visit. Its a smaller climbing area but one of the best countrysides I saw in Spain.
**Benahavis is a locals climbing area. trails are not developed well bushwhacking happens. there is a good swimming hole there though.
As far as time goes, We didn't spend enough time in Spain, although in three weeks, we were quite happy with what we accomplished.
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