|
astone
Oct 17, 2002, 1:37 PM
Post #1 of 14
(2932 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 17, 2002
Posts: 183
|
Scooby,
Your naivete is cute.
Go overseas and you will see many interesting variations on the hardware theme, some interesting, others frightening.
|
|
|
|
|
wigglestick
Oct 17, 2002, 2:02 PM
Post #2 of 14
(2932 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2001
Posts: 1235
|
Edelwiess makes a rope and they label it the "Emotion" in Europe and the "Torrent" in the US. I guess the American public won't buy ropes with sissy names like "Emotion"
|
|
|
|
|
theboss
Oct 19, 2002, 11:14 PM
Post #3 of 14
(2932 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 15, 2002
Posts: 45
|
euros is a term from b.com
please refrain from using it here.
|
|
|
|
|
stevematthys
Oct 20, 2002, 12:28 AM
Post #4 of 14
(2932 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 13, 2000
Posts: 1248
|
wigglestick, you damn right i wont buy a rope with a sissy name. i want a rope with a total bad ass name. (j/k)
|
|
|
|
|
baker_ian
Oct 21, 2002, 2:48 PM
Post #5 of 14
(2932 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 15, 2002
Posts: 26
|
overhung - you're right
certain areas have such soft stone that metal gear trashed it, so the protestion comprises of tape and cord knots of different thicknesses. Have not done it yet - but seen photos and know people who have
looks quite fun
|
|
|
|
|
jds100
Oct 21, 2002, 3:31 PM
Post #6 of 14
(2932 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 5, 2001
Posts: 1008
|
Scooby: you might want to do a little research into climbing in other parts of the world before you adopt such a smug and insulting attitude. Eastern Europeans do indeed have a tradition of trad protection of routes using knotted webbing -soft pro. In some areas, using the trad gear that climbers in the U.S. use would likely get you beat to hell, and possibly earn you a trip to jail. "Duh"
As far as gear goes: first, do a forum search for info on gear brands and European websites that sell gear. You'll read that there are certifiying/ testing organizations that give their stamp of approval. That's going to be your initial indication of reliability.
And, try to title your forum thread with a more sensible title, one that is more descriptive of the information you're actually looking for.
|
|
|
|
|
coclimber26
Oct 25, 2002, 9:20 PM
Post #7 of 14
(2932 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 8, 2002
Posts: 928
|
Mostly the same as in america. Europeans are not afraid to bolt and everywhere you turn you run into a bolt or a piton. Sport climbing is far more popular than trad.
|
|
|
|
|
arsenalcrater
Oct 25, 2002, 11:53 PM
Post #8 of 14
(2932 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 147
|
Yes, they use knotted slings in the Czech Republic as pro in some places. It's unethical/illegal and not too smart to use any other pro on some of that very soft sandstone over there. I'm not sure if this URL is still up, but click on the Czech video and I hope it is still working because it is killer! http://mountainzone.com/2000/banff/html/film_prev.html
|
|
|
|
|
climberchic
Oct 29, 2002, 7:47 PM
Post #9 of 14
(2932 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 24, 2000
Posts: 2077
|
My boyfriend learned to climb from a couple of Scotsmen who would not let him use metal gear as pro (i.e. cams, nuts, hexes, etc). They used knotted webbing as pro so as not to damage the rock.
They were in their 50s when they taught him and had been climbing since they were "wee lads" . They're still alive, so it must work for some...
|
|
|
|
|
marks
Oct 29, 2002, 8:02 PM
Post #10 of 14
(2932 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 3, 2002
Posts: 376
|
on peak grit if you were seen banging in pegs or drilling bolts,you could kiss your climbing days goodbye.bolts are for wimps.if there is no placement for gear, solo it.
|
|
|
|
|
danielb
Nov 1, 2002, 1:48 PM
Post #11 of 14
(2932 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 30, 2002
Posts: 232
|
In the UK bolting is only allowed in diused quarries and certain crags. You would be stoned by a rampaging mob or worse if you tried to bolt a trad crag...
As for gear we have allot of different manufacurers that don't seem to sell in Us and I would imagine you have manufacturers that don't sell gear in europe.
Cheek out www.needlesports.com to see the usual range of gear in uk and www.barrabes.com for the usual range of european gear.
Daniel
|
|
|
|
|
coclimber26
Nov 1, 2002, 3:17 PM
Post #12 of 14
(2932 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 8, 2002
Posts: 928
|
I've never climbed in England but if you climb anywhere else in europe you can barely make a move without runing into a piton or bolt..
|
|
|
|
|
cass
Nov 1, 2002, 3:35 PM
Post #13 of 14
(2932 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 5, 2001
Posts: 1956
|
coclimber26 said:
Quote:...anywhere else in Europe
burren said:
Quote:...Ireland...it is almost exclusively trad
...there is only one (very poor) sport crag in the country
[ This Message was edited by: cass on 2002-11-01 07:35 ]
|
|
|
|
|
danielb
Nov 1, 2002, 3:47 PM
Post #14 of 14
(2932 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 30, 2002
Posts: 232
|
In Scotland, England, Wales, Northern Ireland and probably Ireland there is a very strong anti-bolt/piton ethic which really restricts sport routes to quarries.
Bolting is a issue that usually starts massive arguments/debates and flame wars when its discussed in the UK...
Daniel
|
|
|
|
|
|
