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holmeslovesguinness
Jan 20, 2003, 10:05 PM
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I'm curious to know - what are the hardest trad leads anyone here has done with *only* passive pro?
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winkwinklambonini
Jan 20, 2003, 10:28 PM
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Recluse at Cathedrel Ledge 5.10d. This was on an "old school" day, where we go and do all of our favorite's with our hexes and stoppers, and crack boot's.
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stevematthys
Jan 20, 2003, 11:28 PM
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eldo_climber and I climber Calypso, in Eldorado Canyon as our first ever trad route with only one set of stoppers and 1/2 a set of hexes. Calypso is rated 5.6, but should really be rated around a 5.8 or so.
That was our entire rack for three pitches of sand bagged eldo climbing.
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addiroids
Jan 20, 2003, 11:33 PM
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Onsight: 5.9
Repeat lead with someone belaying me who had never climbed before: 5.9 finger crack
Multipitch: 5.7 or 5.8
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
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mreardon
Jan 20, 2003, 11:33 PM
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It's been 10+ years, but I did "Insomnia" (5.11c) at Suicide with a couple hexes (with the kevlar rope) and a set of stoppers, and the same thing the first time I did "Thin Ice" (5.10a) at the Needles. Did a few things at Joshua Tree as well (5.7-5.10+), but once I learned about aliens and camelots, I never stopped using those.
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flash
Jan 21, 2003, 1:30 AM
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Registered: Dec 22, 2002
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Did the Mummy (NC)
It's a 5.6 but after 7 pitches of passive pros, I felt like I had a very good day, and a great climb.
Now-a-days, I use my good'ol Aliens when I need speed in placement, and go for the passive stuff when ever possible.
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uncle_big_green
Jan 21, 2003, 5:31 PM
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I'm not sure if it was the hardest route. I did Hidden Assets (10-) at T Wall with all passive gear. What was cool about it was that aside from slinging the tree about 1/3 the way up the route, ALL the other placements were tricams (some cammed, some as chocks). I'm pretty sure that was back in '96.
[ This Message was edited by: uncle_big_green on 2003-01-21 14:42 ]
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pbjosh
Jan 21, 2003, 5:39 PM
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Waugh Crack (jtree) 5.10b if you believe Vogel or 5.10d if you believe anyone who's actually climbed it.
Protects the best with small nuts and brassies unless you can take your hands and fingers out of all the key jams to make room for TCUs
josh
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rrrADAM
Jan 21, 2003, 5:48 PM
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Registered: Dec 19, 1999
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Ten Years After 5.10d
Lower Yosemite Falls, Yosemite
90 feet sustained, all small wires. (BD Stoppers #5-#9)
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mreardon
Jan 22, 2003, 1:44 AM
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Waugh crack is definitely stout. Of course Mike Waugh himself isn't such a bad climber....
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kirkbrode
Jan 22, 2003, 4:05 AM
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Registered: Jan 22, 2003
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My buddy Harrison just lead Steepopilus at the T-Wall on all wires. Just like everybody before him (a small handful) because the route does not take anything larger than a #6 stopper. Rated 12- but puts others at that grade to shame. Be ready to hoist satchel on that one.
Climbed with Henry Barber and he did everything all passive. As to be expected, as he does not own cams.
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