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*thriller*
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Jul 11, 2003, 4:04 AM
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I have a question that i'm sure someone on this site can answer for me. I'm a student of civil engineering and we're working on a project where we require some sort of energy dissipation system and i think we should use a screamer (or two). the yates webpage has a lot of useful data, but there is a couple of measurements that we need that we don't have (i don't have any screamers to measure). Is there anyone out there who can answer these questions for me for various types of screamers (standard, shorty, zipper, aid, etc.)? how long is the unit before elongation? how long is the unit after elongation? any help is appreciated ian
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epic_ed
Jul 11, 2003, 4:22 AM
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Just recently discussed here: http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=34926 Someone also suggested emailing Yates directly. Ed
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*thriller*
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Jul 11, 2003, 4:41 AM
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thanks for the link, there's a lot of interesting info, but my question still isn't really answered. the discussion referred to the screamer elongation "about a foot", whereas for our design we need a little more precise data. does anyone have a screamer they could whip out a ruler and measure for me (SI units preferred)?
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philbox
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Jul 11, 2003, 5:42 AM
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Or you could just use a Kong Kisa and then you could make the energy dissapation device any length you wish. http://www.kong.it/doc408.htm Here`s the site to go check out all the specs. http://www.rockclimbing.com/...cles/view.php?ID=212 Here`s an article that shows one in use. They can be set up for varying rates of shockload release depending on the number of holes used in the device for threading the rope through.
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maohaihuang
Jul 11, 2003, 12:16 PM
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Has there been any published study about the reloadable shock absorbing devices such as this? I am wondering how rope condition (diameter, treatment, age, wet? iced?) affect the shock absorption. Apparently many on via farrate use these things. But I haven't heard about any evaluation, not to say comparison with screamers.
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mike_gibson
Jul 11, 2003, 1:52 PM
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Wanted to buy a kong kisa a while back and never could find anywhere that sells it. Sent an email to kong asking where to buy it and never got an answer. Couldn't find anything on the internet (in english ) either. I saw an italian site selling them, but cant read italian
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gunkiemike
Jul 11, 2003, 7:39 PM
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Screamers come in 3 lengths: shorty (about 6"), regular (10" or so) and Ice Screamer (14" plus or minus). As for a reloadable, try the Petzl device(s) that are intended to be used on a Via Ferrata.
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wlderdude
Jul 14, 2003, 11:33 PM
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For what it is worth, Petzl also has a line of Screamers. Sorry, I am not willing to rip the stiching out of my screamers because you are too cheap to buy your own. Good luck.
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