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xanx


Jul 15, 2003, 12:49 AM
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really hard climbs....
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ok for all of you who love to whine about grades, here are all the really hard climbs with controversy about the grades (that i can think of...)

for those of you who aren't caught up in grades, this is a nice list of the hardest stuff out there.

ROUTES
Chilam Balam - 9b+
Akira - 9b
Realization - 9a+ (kinda accepted as a 5.15a at this point i think...)
Las Ramblas ext. - 9a+
Orujo - 9a+
Elfe - 9a(+)
Kryptonite - 9a(+) (I heard a while ago some talk of it being 9a+....)

BOULDER PROBLEMS (V15)
New Base Line (kinda confirmed with a repeat...)
Emotional Landscapes
Black Eagle sitdown
Walk Away sit start
Viva la Evolution
Banshousha
The Dagger (i don't even know what grade it is, but it looked way hard...)
Dreamtime (even though it has seen enough repeats...)

did i miss anything? i tacitly assume that the other 9a's are accepted as such; it seems that most if not all of them have been put up by people who have climbed other 9a's, and who therefor have a good basis for comparison. You can argue that some of the stuff i listed should be considered to be that grade because the person who put it up has done stuff one grade lower (e.g. Klem put up Emotional Landscapes after having done some v14's, so he can tell it is harder than a v14), but the fact that it is a jump into a higher grade can add some uncertainty.

again, you can call me a hypocrit, citing the very length and existence of this posts (and others) as proof that i do care about grades. the point is, i don't care about grades. this doesn't mean, however, that i don't care about the grade controversy. in reality, i am rather adamant in not caring about grades. i strongly believe in not worrying about grades. Argue all you want, every climb on this list as at least v14 or 5.14d; after that point, infinitesimal differences in different climbers can have a huge effect. Everyone's different climbing "style", their strengths, their ape index, their reach ect... would have a much more noticable effect if you are at your limits, so what is a 5.15a for one climber might be 5.15c for another or 5.14d for another, just because of their different builds and strengths and styles. One grade isn't any more accurate or meaningful than another because the next person who comes along and does it will no doubt feel it is something different. Thus, at extremes like this, grades become purely relative, and thus only meaningful in relation to a specific climber and his repotoire. besides, i figure that once you get past around 5.14a or so, only a few people can do those climbs. No matter how hard you or i train, no matter how long we train, most of us will simply never be able to send a 5.14d or whatever. A few lucky people can (with a lot of hard training). So it really makes no difference to the vast majority of us here at RC.com whether Chilam Balam is a 5.15c or not, because most of us will never even dream of climbing that hard. enough ranting though...


soma


Jul 15, 2003, 2:56 AM
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What about Caldwell's Flex Luthor??

What about Trad?



Dave


akd


Jul 15, 2003, 3:49 AM
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Elfe was downgraded by Pou (Iker), and then that was confirmed by the quick ascents of Graham and Parady, at 8c/c+.
I believe that The dagger (Toni Lamprecht's problem near Dreamtime) is Fb 8b+, but there's a sit down start coming...
By the way, it's "La Rambla", not "Las Ramblas", which is like a wide sidewalk by the sea. (there's a famous one in barcelona)

Another thing, I don't get you:
In another thread (as you predicted, I'm quoting you) you put:

In reply to:
*cough* *cough* Akira *cough* *cough*

seriously, i dunno about this one... i mean, Realization took Sharma a long, long time to do (and Dave couldn't even do it), and, while there are plenty of people as strong as sharma (fred nicole, rouhling, dave, bernd, klem, the late wolfgang, ect...) to say there is someone THAT much stronger than he, so much so that it is a full 2 grades harder... i dunno.... no one has even confirmed orujo yet, and it seems like no one seriously considers Akira a 9b anymore. And what about Las Ramblas Extension? i haven't heard anything more about that being a possible 9a+.

and then you try to give an "easygoing" attitude, as if the ones that complained about bernabé's proposition where whining...THAT SAME THING YOU DID ABOVE, and it's OK. It's called arguing, having a conversation, discussing, etc... For instance, I was one of the ones that said that it can or not be a 9b+ but, nevertheless, we should congratulate the guy, and I don't think of myself "cooler" for that. I, as you, like to have a chat about this fantastic accomplishments that few would ever repeat but that break our physical and mental boundaries as human beings; and I don't think it's wrong to talk about it.
Actually, it should be fun.


climbsomething


Jul 15, 2003, 3:50 AM
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In reply to:
What about Trad?

Because, simply, sport climbing has a higher (and different besides) ceiling than trad climbing, at a level where the very fewest climbers are qualified to judge. The roped climbs on the above list are in the 14d-15a++ range. Current, known trad climbs, being done free, are just not that hard; current (and I suspect future) sport climbing has a higher ratings-difficulty level than trad climbs you'll find these days. Yeah, trads, despite my disclaimer speech, I just said sport climbing is harder than trad climbing. Let's get ready to rumble! :roll: That is, of course, a different thread, que no?

In reply to:
So it really makes no difference to the vast majority of us here at RC.com whether Chilam Balam is a 5.15c or not, because most of us will never even dream of climbing that hard.
*snort* way to make an understatement, Mike ;)


soma


Jul 15, 2003, 4:51 AM
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In reply to:
Because, simply, sport climbing has a higher (and different besides) ceiling than trad climbing, at a level where the very fewest climbers are qualified to judge. The roped climbs on the above list are in the 14d-15a++ range. Current, known trad climbs, being done free, are just not that hard; current (and I suspect future) sport climbing has a higher ratings-difficulty level than trad climbs you'll find these days. Yeah, trads, despite my disclaimer speech, I just said sport climbing is harder than trad climbing. Let's get ready to rumble! :roll: That is, of course, a different thread, que no?

Okay, I understand that the hardest sport climbs require "more" technical and physical climbing but for me the most difficult aspect of climbing is mental.

Consider Potter's recent Conception (5.13 or .14?). Eighty plus feet of run out 5.10+ fist cracks above V10 micro cracks on placed protection, sh*t!! No matter that Potter has many incredible solos, this is a "really hard climb".

After I clip the second bolt of a sport climb I feel pretty safe as long as there is no ground fall potential on the subsequent bolts. When I am climbing on top rope I feel invincible.

The mindset that is required for trad is much different. I never want to fall on my gear (or borrowed gear :lol:). I haven't fallen yet while trad climbing and I don't plan on it, but when I do I hope it is on bomber pro.

The quality of the protection must be factored into the difficulty of the route and bolts are pretty safe.....

It is easy to climb hard when you believe you are safe.

Dave


xanx


Jul 15, 2003, 4:53 AM
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ok first off: climbsomething, what is your hardest send? hmm?? seriously, be a little honest with yourself. we have some mad strong climbers here, but most of them will just never pull a 5.14d. Steven Jeffery will probably do a v14 some day (i think hardest he has done so far is a v13, i could be wrong). Paul Robinson will climb v15 one day. maybe even some 5.15's. but most of us only dream of being that strong. if u can find 20 people of the thousands of users here who can redpoint 5.14d or do a v14 i will be very very impressed...

secondly, am i not allowed to show a skeptical attitude towards some recently graded climbs (like Chilam Balam), and in the same breath say that in any case it doesn't really matter? It's like saying "I personally think your brother is right and you are wrong, but it really doesn't matter because no one will ever care or know whether Superman would beat Wonderwoman in a fight, they are both really powerful...." (Ok it was a really really crappy analogy.... u get the point...) - i do have an opinion on the grading controversy, but i feel that, in the end, it isn't really worth arguing. that doesn't mean i won't argue it, it just means i am smart enough to know i am wasting my breath by doing so.


climber1


Jul 15, 2003, 5:03 AM
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In reply to:

Because, simply, sport climbing has a higher (and different besides) ceiling than trad climbing, at a level where the very fewest climbers are qualified to judge. The roped climbs on the above list are in the 14d-15a++ range. Current, known trad climbs, being done free, are just not that hard; current (and I suspect future) sport climbing has a higher ratings-difficulty level than trad climbs you'll find these days. Yeah, trads, despite my disclaimer speech, I just said sport climbing is harder than trad climbing. Let's get ready to rumble! :roll: That is, of course, a different thread, que no?
this is so ridiculous it doesn't deserve an answer


akd


Jul 15, 2003, 5:08 AM
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Hey man, chill down...climbsomething was just messing with you.
another thing:
In reply to:
it just means i am smart enough to know i am wasting my breath by doing so
doesn't seem very smart.... (maybe cynical..., but smart?)


climbsomething


Jul 15, 2003, 5:08 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:

Because, simply, sport climbing has a higher (and different besides) ceiling than trad climbing, at a level where the very fewest climbers are qualified to judge. The roped climbs on the above list are in the 14d-15a++ range. Current, known trad climbs, being done free, are just not that hard; current (and I suspect future) sport climbing has a higher ratings-difficulty level than trad climbs you'll find these days. Yeah, trads, despite my disclaimer speech, I just said sport climbing is harder than trad climbing. Let's get ready to rumble! :roll: That is, of course, a different thread, que no?
this is so ridiculous it doesn't deserve an answer

DING!!! I knew it! YEAH BABY. you people are SO EASY.


climbsomething


Jul 15, 2003, 5:14 AM
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In reply to:
ok first off: climbsomething, what is your hardest send? hmm?? seriously, be a little honest with yourself. we have some mad strong climbers here, but most of them will just never pull a 5.14d. Steven Jeffery will probably do a v14 some day (i think hardest he has done so far is a v13, i could be wrong). Paul Robinson will climb v15 one day. maybe even some 5.15's. but most of us only dream of being that strong. if u can find 20 people of the thousands of users here who can redpoint 5.14d or do a v14 i will be very very impressed...

secondly, am i not allowed to show a skeptical attitude towards some recently graded climbs (like Chilam Balam), and in the same breath say that in any case it doesn't really matter? It's like saying "I personally think your brother is right and you are wrong, but it really doesn't matter because no one will ever care or know whether Superman would beat Wonderwoman in a fight, they are both really powerful...." (Ok it was a really really crappy analogy.... u get the point...) - i do have an opinion on the grading controversy, but i feel that, in the end, it isn't really worth arguing. that doesn't mean i won't argue it, it just means i am smart enough to know i am wasting my breath by doing so.
*chuckle* Weeeeeeeeee!!!!1

I was including MYSELF in that equation too, but since you're asking me to SPRAY, I'll tell you- 11b is my hardest clean send. I have dogged to 12-. I have always been honest with myself and others about my ability, and the above is in fact the truth. I even have witlesses, er, witnesses. And you said "most" around here, and I did not modify that to say ALL. I do in fact, to further spray, know users from this site that redpoint 13c. In short, however, I was AGREEING with you.

Of course you're allowed to be cynical. So am I. I'm also allowed to take the piss out of the Internet-climbing community and allow likewise in turn, and you're even allowed to say, out of one corner of your mouth, that you're not concerned with grades, and out of the other corner...


climber1


Jul 15, 2003, 5:37 AM
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In reply to:
*chuckle* Weeeeeeeeee!!!!1

I was including MYSELF in that equation too, but since you're asking me to SPRAY, I'll tell you- 11b is my hardest clean send. I have dogged to 12-. I have always been honest with myself and others about my ability, and the above is in fact the truth. I even have witlesses, er, witnesses. And you said "most" around here, and I did not modify that to say ALL. I do in fact, to further spray, know users from this site that redpoint 13c. In short, however, I was AGREEING with you.

Of course you're allowed to be cynical. So am I. I'm also allowed to take the piss out of the Internet-climbing community and allow likewise in turn, and you're even allowed to say, out of one corner of your mouth, that you're not concerned with grades, and out of the other corner...
Hillary dear, me thinketh those are sport climbs?


climbsomething


Jul 15, 2003, 5:40 AM
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Hillary dear, me thinketh those are sport climbs?
One was. The other was a second of a TRAD climb. Guess which was which? ;)


rockzen


Jul 15, 2003, 11:59 PM
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Wow... what an entertaining thread... :lol:

In reply to:
So it really makes no difference to the vast majority of us here at RC.com whether Chilam Balam is a 5.15c or not, because most of us will never even dream of climbing that hard. enough ranting though...

Dare to dream?!? While I can't climb 5.14s or 5.15s, I'm willing to bet that if I trained and tried hard enough, there's a chance I could. I bet if I quit my job and lived out of a tent for a couple years, I'd be able to improve my climbing considerably. Hmmm... that sounds like it might be fun... ;) Imagine what I could do if I devoted my life to climbing. On the other hand, if I thought it wasn't an achievable goal, well then the battle is already lost. Attitude makes a big difference...

Just my 2 cents...
RockZen


hasbeen


Jul 16, 2003, 12:37 AM
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There's a sorta simple answer on the trad v sport thing, which is essentially silly because I've never met a top climber that didn't do both. Climbers tend to climb anything that goes up at some point, though many are adverse to cold.

But....

The top trad only climbers (if there are any) would never have a prayer of climbing the hardest sport routes. But the top sport climbers could easily climb the hardest trad routes with a bit of work. Think about the players: Hill, Huber(s), Hirayama, Caldwell, Gehrson, Kammerlander, Destiville, Glowacz, blah, blah... even Potter, have all spent a lot of time clipping bolts and most of them have spent the majority of their careers clipping bolts. Huber, in fact, went from a sport only climber (not one crack climb ever) to climbing arguably the hardest traditional free climb in the world in a few months.

Like Huber said about the Salathe headwall's difficulty, "when you are used to climbing 5.14, these holds are jugs [sic]"


xanx


Jul 16, 2003, 1:09 AM
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let's not have this turn into a sport v trad argument...


climber1


Jul 16, 2003, 4:35 AM
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The top trad only climbers (if there are any) would never have a prayer of climbing the hardest sport routes. But the top sport climbers could easily climb the hardest trad routes with a bit of work. Think about the players: Hill, Huber(s), Hirayama, Caldwell, Gehrson, Kammerlander, Destiville, Glowacz, blah, blah... even Potter, have all spent a lot of time clipping bolts and most of them have spent the majority of their careers clipping bolts. Huber, in fact, went from a sport only climber (not one crack climb ever) to climbing arguably the hardest traditional free climb in the world in a few months.

first of all, Lynn's background is trad climbing.
secondly, on the hardest trad climbs, one needs technique, strength, power, and endurance. on hard sport climbs, well you can finesse your way through them.


climbsomething


Jul 16, 2003, 6:02 AM
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In reply to:
first of all, Lynn's background is trad climbing.

Yes, this is true. But this is a bit of a non-argument; Lynn began climbing in 1975, when there was no other genre of rock climbing to be rooted in. She couldn't be a sport specialist in her early years, now could she? But Caldwell, the Hubers, Beth Rodden... who began climbing many years after Lynn did, were major players in sport before unleashing their fury on 5.13 cracks.

In reply to:
secondly, on the hardest trad climbs, one needs technique, strength, power, and endurance. on hard sport climbs, well you can finesse your way through them.
Um, ok. Is "finesse" to be a lesser thing here? Because that'd be a first. Most people who are inclined to grumble say that hard sport sends are cheap because you can just thug your way through them. But whether I misunderstand you or not there, the fact is that technique, strength, power, and endurance are needed on PLENTY of sport climbs, and not just the elite 5.14s and 15s. For a local example, check out Hellraiser (12c) or Carpe Diem (12b) at SoCal's Williamson. Hell, go down to the "mere" rating of 11b at New Jack City, to a route I like called Candy O. You don't have to climb these routes yourself, but watch somebody else. Tell me they're not climbing using a lot of technique, strength, power and endurance (Carpe, in particular, is 14 bolts long). I mean no disrespect, climber1, but it sounds like you don't do much sport climbing...

I agree that a good challenging trad line requires mucho technique, strength and endurance (specialized in areas that I know I don't train nearly as often, so I consequently get a whuppin!). But so do challenging sport climbs, and I DO know this from much personal experience.


kalcario


Jul 16, 2003, 6:40 AM
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*first of all, Lynn's background is trad climbing.
secondly, on the hardest trad climbs, one needs technique, strength, power, and endurance. on hard sport climbs, well you can finesse your way through them.*

Lynn Hill is a limestone-trained sport climber who lived in the South of France for 10-12 years, was the first woman to do a 5.14, and won World Cup comps like Steffi Graf won Grand Slams. Any American (including Lynn) who has been climbing more than 20 years has a trad background, sport climbing did not exist in this country till '84. And saying that hard sport climbs do not require technique, power and endurance, but only finesse, is just so utterly laughable, and so lacking in any basis in reality, as to render any further posts on this subject by you as at best uninformed and at worst, malicious drivel.


hasbeen


Jul 16, 2003, 6:56 AM
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In reply to:
secondly, on the hardest trad climbs, one needs technique, strength, power, and endurance. on hard sport climbs, well you can finesse your way through them

I believe you have this reversed, my friend. Ever been on a hard trad climb? Some do require all of the traits mentioned, others require one or the other. Ever been on a hard sport climb? Umm, I fear not. Finesse my ass. Try and do Action Direct with finesse. I've been on AD. I am decent when it comes to finesse. Didn't do jack for me when I needed to make a five foot dyno off of two half-digit monos. No sir. The only thing that was going to get me through that move was raw power, which would have required a couple of years of solid campusing--which ain't exactly finesse dependant. I've also done a few reasonably hard trad routes. These can be terrifying, of course, and hard ones tend to be tricky. But when equating hard trad vs. hard sport, I'd say you're usually given 3 to 4 grades for gear placing. For example, Equinox is given 12d for a sharp end onsight. On TR, or if it were bolted, it'd be 11d/12a tops.

I believe Lynn's history was amply covered.


climbsomething


Jul 16, 2003, 7:06 AM
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heheh... I give these little Willy and NJC examples, and hasbeen lays down the law with a reference to Action Directe. But I always knew I got nuttin' on the worldly and truly skilled strongmen around here ;)


hasbeen


Jul 16, 2003, 7:17 AM
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ex-strongmen, please.

Actually, I never felt very strong, especially hanging on to those monos and looking at the jump I had to make to get to the next hold (which is a jug, btw--yes, one really good hold does exist on AD).

And let's not belittle Willy. I love that cliff. Hellraiser is a fine route and stellar example.


xanx


Jul 19, 2003, 1:49 AM
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ok... so... a few questions:

Kryptonite is confirmed at 9a?
Elfe was downgraded to 8c/c+?
and what about Flex Luthor? is that now a 9a or a 9a+?
any of these seen repeats besides elfe?

i'm not including trad because, to me knowledge, there are no trad routes that are even considered 9a or 8c+. besides, doesn't everyone just dial those hard trad routes on TR first?

any other boulder problems or routes that could be over 9a (5.14d) or over 8B+ (V14)?


climber1


Jul 19, 2003, 4:59 AM
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In reply to:
Lynn Hill is a limestone-trained sport climber who lived in the South of France for 10-12 years, was the first woman to do a 5.14, and won World Cup comps like Steffi Graf won Grand Slams. Any American (including Lynn) who has been climbing more than 20 years has a trad background, sport climbing did not exist in this country till '84. And saying that hard sport climbs do not require technique, power and endurance, but only finesse, is just so utterly laughable, and so lacking in any basis in reality, as to render any further posts on this subject by you as at best uninformed and at worst, malicious drivel.
dude, I'm not getting into a pissing contest with you over sport climbing.
as for being uninformed, you don't know who you are talking to.


climber1


Jul 19, 2003, 5:06 AM
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In reply to:

I mean no disrespect, climber1, but it sounds like you don't do much sport climbing...

Hillary, you are right. my background is trad and alpine climbing. However, I do enjoy sport climbing occassionally but, not enough to obsessed with it. I do know that different techniques are used on sport climbs as opposed to trad climbs.


kalcario


Jul 19, 2003, 5:29 AM
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*dude, I'm not getting into a pissing contest with you over sport climbing.
as for being uninformed, you don't know who you are talking to.*

I'm uninformed as far as who you are... but that's about it. Being from San Gabriel myself, I thought I knew all the climbers from Alhambra...guess not, though...are you actually from Alhambra?


Forums : Climbing Information : General

 


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