|
dfoerstel
May 25, 2004, 3:04 PM
Post #1 of 16
(1874 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 9, 2003
Posts: 112
|
So I've been climbing in California for a couple of years now but I've never been to Yosemite. I'll be there most of next week. My question is "How much different is it climbing there than in Joshua Tree or Red Rocks?"
If can top rope easy 10's and I've followed a few easy 5.6-5.8 trad routes in JT & Red Rocks, am I going to struggle following 5.7 & 5.8 cracks in Yosemite? (I don't lead yet) Any advice or information about climbing in the valley would be appreciated. Thanks
I'm back and if wasn't even all that painful. Even led the 2nd pitch on "The Grack". Munginella was a fun multi-pitch as well. Damn I wanna be a Yosemite bum!
|
|
|
|
|
vegastradguy
May 25, 2004, 3:23 PM
Post #2 of 16
(1874 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
|
Yosemite is way different than either place. I had only climbed @ RR (& once at Jtree) before going to the Valley for the first time last year. While it was definitely interesting climbing, we were able to really enjoy ourselves on 5.7's and some 5.8's the whole time.
Now, of course, some 5.8's are going to be MUCH harder than other 5.8's, depending on what you've climbed in the past. Jtree, if you've climbed there alot, will probably give you more preparation than Red Rocks. Yosemite, though, is generally smooth granite, not that scratchy nasty stuff at JTree. However, I'd still consider taping up...granite, you know.
Other than that, have fun, bring all your gear, and be safe!
|
|
|
|
|
oafy
May 25, 2004, 3:25 PM
Post #3 of 16
(1874 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 9, 2004
Posts: 102
|
You'll totally have a tough time following cracks in yosemite, alot of the climbs in that range are super polished, meaning tougher for the grade, plus yosemite has tough grades to begin with. But giver a go, if you wanna do a really fun route and your partner is willing to lead all the pitches, Royal arches direct, its a classic and fun!. Or if you just wanna do a really nice intro to jamming, a wicked 5.9 crack with the first pitch being 5.7 is Jam Crack, right near the Falls it eats up tons of gear. Anyways have a good time and Keep climbin
|
|
|
|
|
crack_feine1
May 25, 2004, 3:40 PM
Post #4 of 16
(1874 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 5, 2004
Posts: 49
|
From my experience in the valley I found that the grading was a little more inconsistent than other places. Many of the old routes in the valley have seem to have stiff ratings. I found that some 5.8 moves were feeling as hard as 5.10's elsewhere. I guess you have to take into consideration the routes established in boots w/o sticky rubber. but if you can climb 5.10 in other places you should have no prob.
|
|
|
|
|
kalcario
May 25, 2004, 3:48 PM
Post #5 of 16
(1874 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 1601
|
*If can top rope easy 10's and I've followed a few easy 5.6-5.8 trad routes in JT & Red Rocks, am I going to struggle following 5.7 & 5.8 cracks in Yosemite? (I don't lead yet)*
the 7's and 8's are pretty similar to Josh, it's when you get to 10 and beyond that Yosemite tends to separate the men from the boys
|
|
|
|
|
davidji
May 25, 2004, 3:51 PM
Post #6 of 16
(1874 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 30, 2003
Posts: 1776
|
In reply to: You'll totally have a tough time following cracks in yosemite
In reply to: a wicked 5.9 crack with the first pitch being 5.7 is Jam Crack, |
|
|
|
|
peroxide
May 25, 2004, 4:01 PM
Post #7 of 16
(1874 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 3, 2004
Posts: 117
|
For 99% of us "regular" climbers, the first trip to Yosemite is both enlightening and humbling.
I found that I could face and slab climb well but crack climbing was a brand new thing for me. It made for a rough transition at first.
The valley, its immense and incredible expanse of granite, will blow you away. If ever you need a motivator to master your crack and trad skills this is the place to go.
Stay at Camp 4, get a Supertopo of Valley classics, go to swan slabs and feel out your grade for climbing. A majority of the swan slab (3 minutes walk from camp 4) is well protected and good for doing labs.
Good luck! I am 4500 miles away and very envious. Rock on
Peroxide
|
|
|
|
|
dfoerstel
May 25, 2004, 5:05 PM
Post #8 of 16
(1874 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 9, 2003
Posts: 112
|
Thanks for all the advice and information. I fully expect this to be truly memorable (and humbling) experience. I'm going with some experienced and patient leaders so I plan on soaking up as much valuable information as I can.
I'll be in the Upper Pines Campground but I'll be sure to also check out Camp 4. Also planning on doing the Half Dome hike on Memorial Day!
Dave
|
|
|
|
|
davidji
May 25, 2004, 5:12 PM
Post #9 of 16
(1874 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 30, 2003
Posts: 1776
|
In reply to: Thanks for all the advice and information. I fully expect this to be truly memorable (and humbling) experience. |
|
|
|
|
brainbucket
May 25, 2004, 10:15 PM
Post #10 of 16
(1874 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 12, 2003
Posts: 25
|
I'm also a Yosemite virgin. I have read alot about climbing there, but am still confused about camping regulations. Can I just bring a tent and set it up anywhere, as long as I am more than a mile from the road? If not, what is the best way to get a camping spot or permission to camp on short notice?
thanks in advance...
|
|
|
|
|
scuclimber
May 25, 2004, 10:52 PM
Post #11 of 16
(1874 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2003
Posts: 1007
|
In reply to: I'm also a Yosemite virgin. I have read alot about climbing there, but am still confused about camping regulations. Can I just bring a tent and set it up anywhere, as long as I am more than a mile from the road? If not, what is the best way to get a camping spot or permission to camp on short notice? thanks in advance...
Depends on when you go. Camp 4 is the only non-reservation campground that is open year round. June-September however, there are a bunch of first come, first served campgrounds open. It's illegal to just camp anywhere. If you get a wilderness permit, then you can backpack just about anywhere outside the Valley itself and camp. Check www.nps.gov/yose/trip/camping.htm. That should have all the info you need.
Colin
|
|
|
|
|
indigo_nite
May 25, 2004, 11:01 PM
Post #12 of 16
(1874 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 3, 2002
Posts: 365
|
re: original post... you will likely be amazed by the scale of the rock there. it's really a wonderful place but also a bit crowded and developed.
I don't think you can prepare yourself physically or mentally for climbing there. I felt compared to jtree that yosemite's smooth cracks were friendlier on the hands but for the feet, I really missed the grippiness of jtree granite. if you'll stay to climb at yosem for a week or more, I feel you can improve your climbing very quickly, especially becoming more precise with your feet. I think you'll acclimate best to the different rock quality just by climbing it.
personally, I thought I was comfortable with chimneys but I found a pretty low-grade chimney quite humbling.
enjoy yourself.
|
|
|
|
|
radistrad
May 26, 2004, 12:57 AM
Post #13 of 16
(1874 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 25, 2002
Posts: 800
|
Yosemite is a great place to climb.
Check out Knob Hill, it has a few 5.7-5.8's it may be a good place to start.
Check out Church Bowl, it as some good 5.8's, when you're comfortable there climb Bishops Terrace.
Go to Swan Slabs it has some short and easy climbing.
Jam Crack is good and popular, you can get good protection.
for Multi-pitch go and climb Munginella, its two to three pitches depending on how you stretch the rope.
You need crack skills in the Valley, you also must be good at placing pro.
On the Base of El Cap climb Pine Line, its easy 5.7.
Look up http://www.supertopo.com its full of Yosemite info.
You may need two ropes to get off of many routes.
dont miss Royal Arches route, its fairly easy and long. Start early.
|
|
|
|
|
dfoerstel
May 26, 2004, 9:59 PM
Post #14 of 16
(1874 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 9, 2003
Posts: 112
|
Thanks for all the replies. I'll be in Upper Pines Campground Site 27 if you're up there and want to stop by and say "HI".
Dave
|
|
|
|
|
maculated
May 26, 2004, 10:13 PM
Post #15 of 16
(1874 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 23, 2001
Posts: 6179
|
In reply to: Can I just bring a tent and set it up anywhere, as long as I am more than a mile from the road? If not, what is the best way to get a camping spot or permission to camp on short notice?
The beta you got on this is misleading. There is a wilderness pass for people planning on backpacking available on a first come, first serve basis: go to the Wilderness Permit office to get one of these. BUT, they are for backpackers. And the rule is 2 miles from a road and one mile in from a trail. This is NOT the situation for a person looking to camp and climb, unless they are looking to do some alpine stuff. Don't abuse the system.
If you can get a reservation (I doubt it), do it. Camp 4 will be busting loose this weekend. People will show up late at night and bivy until the office opens in the morning, and the line will be long. I'd suggest planning on trying other walking campgrounds if they are open. The camping situation is fairly dire in Yos, but that's what comes with it being as popular as it is.
|
|
|
|
|
dfoerstel
Jun 7, 2004, 3:25 PM
Post #16 of 16
(1874 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 9, 2003
Posts: 112
|
How do you go back to being a productive member of society after a week in the Valley?????????
|
|
|
|
|
|
