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angry
Jan 25, 2005, 3:46 PM
Post #26 of 30
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
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Don't tell Luebben he could pleasure an elephant with the biggest one, he gets a little pissy.
Most easy wide cracks I've climbed are flared, so until you get on the harder ones, they probably aren't that important. They are really nice actually, it takes a little practice though.
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lonequail
Jan 26, 2005, 3:56 AM
Post #27 of 30
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Registered: Jun 8, 2004
Posts: 65
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Big Rros are good and they have their place. I have confidence in them for most applications. There is rarely a need for going with cams for larger cracks. The #3 BB easily covers the size above what normally available cams do not, and the #4 gets as big as you would normally need. Although there are oversized special order cams avaialble (valley giants) BB's are lighter, cheaper, and work for most situations.
Where BB's are not good are in three situations: 1) flaring cracks, 2) sideways loading. and 3) stressed or desperate placements. Flaring cracks are obvious and need no further explanation. Sideways loadings come from situations such as horizontal overhangs where you are going out a roof and would pendulum onto the unit if you fell. With slack in the lead rope they would probably hold, but they could get jerked sideways and may not be able to resist. Desperate and stressed placements are primarily where you get into a layback or undercling of a wide crack and need a cam which can be placed quickly and blindly.
I freqauently climb wide cracks and usually choose BB's rather than the oversized cams. OW climbing is normally a slow conrolled endeavor and using a little extra time to place BB's is not a problem.
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moof
Jan 27, 2005, 4:05 AM
Post #28 of 30
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Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 400
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I have the #3, 4, and 5. I've only recently started placing them, but boy can they inspire confidence when placed over a couple good nubs. The #5 is definately a freak. It is the only piece of gear I have ever placed BEHIND me in a crack. So far they have only gone on the easy stuff like Mike's Books (5.6), Bat Crack (5.5), and Damn Jam (5.6), but they will see more soon.
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jaybro
Mar 26, 2005, 8:27 PM
Post #29 of 30
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Registered: Feb 2, 2005
Posts: 441
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Big bros hold well in fairly parrallell side cracks, and don't walk. that said, they are rarely as convenient as big cams. In these days of lots of sizes of big cams the only place I've had them on the rack is Patterson bluffs, east of Fresno. Haven't used 'em in Vedauwoo in almost two decades.
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david.yount
Deleted
Apr 16, 2005, 9:40 AM
Post #30 of 30
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In reply to: There are probalby four people who use them on this site regularly. All four will pipe up with a response in this thread. They are not the majority. Anyway, good luck. -Kate.
5.9 12-pitch Frigidaire Buttress, Red Rocks, Nevada
A fine example of a route the area's accepted guidebook author has not climbed and yet is a fine fine climb which is kept vacant 'cuz there's no stars in the guidebook. If you bring a Big Bro #3 and #4 you will use them and you will be breathing much easier. Many of these pitches have some chimney.
Many classic long moderate routes at Red Rocks benefit from Big Bros. IF you bring a #2 and #3 BB along you can leave the much heavier Camalot #4 and #3.5 (and #5 if you actually carry that jolly green giant!) back at the campground.
david yount.
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