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the_tall_guy
Apr 17, 2005, 1:58 PM
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Hi, folks: I was wondering what the run is like to the first bolt. I understand it's a little spicy, and I was curious if some trickery might solve the problem. Could a long stick clip like a tent pole be used to clip the first bolt? Or is boldness the only solution? I'm not necessarily averse to boldness. I just like my ankles intact. Thanks for any info.
Cheers,
Scott
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jerrygarcia
Apr 17, 2005, 5:37 PM
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In reply to: Or is boldness the only solution? Scott |
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mungeclimber
Apr 18, 2005, 6:05 AM
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If I remember well, a stick clip can protect the initial moves. I seem to recall the first bolt (new wave) being more out than up, and that because of where you start, the ground seems far away. Now back in the day, ankle buster for sure.
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alpnclmbr1
Apr 18, 2005, 6:51 AM
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If you need a stickclip to get to the first bolt, you probably won't like getting to the second or third.
It is a fitting name even with the addition of larger and extra bolts.
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the_tall_guy
Apr 18, 2005, 2:14 PM
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Thanks, guys. Alpnclmbr1: I'm not averse to a little run here and there. It's the bone-breaking ground falls I'm looking to avoid. Check out the most recent issue of Outside for a little story by Mark Jenkins on the pleasures of grounding out.
Munge: Do you think a conventional stick clip will do the trick?
Thanks!
Scott
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mungeclimber
Apr 18, 2005, 4:04 PM
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Ya know, it's been a season or two, and I'm just not sure how far out it is. I'd bet Greg at ASCA would know the distance though.
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alpnclmbr1
Apr 18, 2005, 4:32 PM
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You probably wouldn't die if you came off getting to the first bolt. You probably could manage to kill yourself getting to the second or third bolt.
In the context of this route, I really don't think stick clipping the first bolt is going to do what you think it is going to do. :roll:
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the_tall_guy
Apr 18, 2005, 5:09 PM
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Thanks. I'll keep that in mind.
Cheers,
Scott
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rocknroll
Apr 20, 2005, 7:03 AM
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Years ago, before Hairraiser was retro bolted, I tried to put up a new route to the left of Hairaiser. I ran it out about 40 feet (groundfall) and drilled a 1/4" bolt. I looked down at the ground and over at hairaiser 15 feet away and thought "this is silly. 40 foot run out right next to a classic line?" (Remember Hairaiser had only 3 bolts on the first pitch and only towards the top, slung chickenheads were the pro). I joined Hairaiser and gave up the route.
Years later Alan Hirahara, famous sushi chef (who never could a get date even though he entertained beautiful woman all the time at work while wearing a japaneese bath robe), asked me what I thought about him retro bolting HairRaiser. I said it was entirely up to the first acensionist Vern Clevenger. The next time I saw Vern he agreed that the route could use a few more bolts. I relayed this info to Al, who promptly retro bolted the route. Vern was not happy. Alan did not follow my instructions and talk to the first ascentionist. He went strictly on my word. I guess Vern felt there were too many bolts,
Years later, I go to do the new and improved Hairraiser and discover he didn't even bolt the ankle breaking move at the bottom. And not only that, he didn't even bolt the first pitch. Since very few sport climbers know much about natural protection, especially how to tie a butterfly knot on a chickenhead, everyone headed for that lone bolt I placed years ago 40 feet up. Alan bolted this line. The actual Hairraiser Buttress climbs up 15 feet and traverses straight right to the center of the buttress where you can sling some chicken heads.
Later I discovered another route of mine on the back side of Granite Mountain, Dick Van Dike had also been retro-bolted. Everytime I came to the Sushi bar I would bemoan the fate of that route to Alan " The nutting was intricate and you had to think...but it was totally safe. Alan, who would ruin such a classic trad route?" Alan would shrug his sholuders and hand me another free poke salad.
On his third or fourth going away party at the retaurant, Alan fessed up. "I bolted it. I thought it hadn't been climbed. Do you want me to chop it?"
"No, no sense in that. People are enjoying it the way it is." As I was getting up to leave, Alan handed me a free bucket full of Poke salad.
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jerrygarcia
Apr 20, 2005, 7:24 AM
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In reply to: stuff and more stuff
Thanks for the info. Isnt this east side? Can you draw up a topo to add to your description of hair raiser for the site? Even a crappy ms paint drawning will be helpful to people that havent been there yet. How accesible is "Dick Van Dike " on the backside?
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mungeclimber
Apr 20, 2005, 8:47 PM
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In reply to: Years ago, before Hairraiser was retro bolted, I tried to put up a new route to the left of Hairaiser. I ran it out about 40 feet (groundfall) and drilled a 1/4" bolt. I looked down at the ground and over at hairaiser 15 feet away and thought "this is silly. 40 foot run out right next to a classic line?" (Remember Hairaiser had only 3 bolts on the first pitch and only towards the top, slung chickenheads were the pro). I joined Hairaiser and gave up the route. Years later, I go to do the new and improved Hairraiser and discover he didn't even bolt the ankle breaking move at the bottom. And not only that, he didn't even bolt the first pitch. Since very few sport climbers know much about natural protection, especially how to tie a butterfly knot on a chickenhead, everyone headed for that lone bolt I placed years ago 40 feet up. Alan bolted this line. The actual Hairraiser Buttress climbs up 15 feet and traverses straight right to the center of the buttress where you can sling some chicken heads.
So Alan retro bolted your runout route, left of the actual Hairraiser route, which is or is not still protected with only chickenheads? Is the currently retrobolted (re?) second pitch on the hairraiser line, or are they independent.
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rocknroll
Apr 21, 2005, 4:57 AM
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As with a lot of these mammeries, uh, memories, my re-collection does not always serve me. I go to Josh and try a route that I have never done before only to have feelings of Deja Vu and realize I had done it. But back then we tried to get 100 points a day, adding up the .7's, .10's etc. We also tried to get 100 points in the evenings as well, often fueled by "a little wine, a little line, and a little Pot!" Ah, the eighties. No wonder I don't remember.
But to answer your question, I believe that the belay on the first pitch is not at the same place as the original Hairariser. I could be wrong. Alan would know. When I did the route about three years ago with George swiggums I looked right for the old 1/4" belay but couldn't see it. It seemed that the retro bolted route joined the original hairaiser in the middle of the second pitch. But I could be wrong.
Sure glad I don't drink and snort and smoke anymore. At least I'll be able to remember the rest of my life.
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jsunmatthews
Jan 11, 2007, 6:56 AM
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I just got back from the g-basin today. 120 was closed due to snow but drove around gate and saw hardly a patch of the white stuff. End result was two days in paradise and not a soul to be seen. What a wonderful place. Hair Riaser was my first climb in the area and it definitely gets top-rating in my book. As for the first bolt, well, the name gives it away as some suggest, but you could have a solid partner sit on the edge of a large boulder just to the left of the route and maybe give you nominal support, though it would probably be more psychological that anything else. The climb isn't technically hard, though, so if you feel solid a grade above hair raiser's you can make the clip easy, and the rest of the climb will keep you jazzed all day long.
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