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scuclimber
May 22, 2005, 5:00 AM
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Registered: Jun 30, 2003
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Alright guys,
So I currently have a Maxim Leavittator 10.5x60M that I bought last year. I love it and expect it to last me quite a while judging by its wear thus far. However, I happened on a prodeal at work that would allow me to buy any Edelweiss rope for the same dirt cheap price (not going to say how cheap, but imagine ridiculously cheap and you're probably in the ball park). So now I'm thinking about picking up a 2nd rope as I cannot resist the price. My climbing experience at this point is as follows: frequent trips to the local sport crag for TRing/sport leading, just getting into trad, hoping to get into trad much more and possibly alpine in the future, definitely hoping to get into the High Sierra and do moderate stuff. So I was thinking I'd get a thinner single rope like the Ultralight 9.9 ARC or the Laser 9.6 ARC. I was also possibly thinking about getting a 70M because it seems to me that if I was doing stuff in the mountains a 70M would allow longer rappels and longer pitches, ergo more efficient climbing in the face of possible poor weather. Of course, buying a 70M kind of defeats the point of buying a lighter rope because I make up the weight loss in the extra length. So I would like to know several things: 1) Have you any experience with either of the two ropes I mentioned? 2) If you were in my situation, what, if any Edelweiss would you buy? 3) Do you think going with a smaller diameter is a good choice for trad/alpine stuff in the Sierra specifically and the mountains in general (when I say "mountains" I mean alpine granite, possibly ice or mixed climbing in the future)? 4) Should I go with a 70M, or just stick with a 60M? Thanks for the input.
Colin
Stats:
Current Maxim:
4236 Grams
9.43 KN Impact Force
10 UIAA Falls
4.8% Elongation
Ultralight
60M=3840 Grams
70M=4480 Grams
8.4 KN Impact Force
8 UIAA Falls
7.0% Elongation
Laser
60M=3660 Grams
70M=4270 Grams
8.0 KN Impact Force
6 UIAA Falls
7.5% Elongation
As per NewEnglandRopes.com and Edelweiss-Ropes.com.
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trenchdigger
May 22, 2005, 5:48 AM
Post #2 of 22
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Hehe... somebody works at REI...
In my limited experience, long ropes are really not an advantage for Sierra climbs. There's simply too much rope drag on meandering pitches, and communication can be a problem if you try to stretch a pitch longer.
Despite the fact that I've already got 3 ropes, I'm not sure I can pass up this deal either. I'm not sure which I'd get either, though. Possibly something to replace my Beal 9.7mm that's been handling most of my lead duties lately. The edelweiss ropes seem to have nice low impact forces and should work well as a light trad rope. I'm tempted to get some doubles though instead. We'll see... I'm interested in comments about these ropes as well.
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justanotherclimber
May 22, 2005, 8:04 AM
Post #3 of 22
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i just recently acquired the laser 9.6 (60m) and really like it. its a bit stiff at first, but its way light and performs nicely. we used it on a really long 'desert alpine' route recently and it held up nicely.
i also bagged it via prodeal and was really happy with it. get the SEM if you can, the markings come in handy on the longer stuff.
it isnt a workhorse rope, though- i'll keep it strictly for speed ascents and light and fast adventures.
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kafish
May 22, 2005, 12:27 PM
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I picked up an edelweiss rope a few months ago when I found them on sale. It is not the ropes you are looking at, mind was dry treated 9.8, but its performance may give you some ideas on what to expect from their other ropes.
The pros are: it is light, nice low impact force, price
however i had two major issues with it: it seems to be wearing quiker than other ropes i have owned. Specifically where I am tieing in. It could just be that i have gotten on some nasty routes that are working the rope, and i also use it about 3-4 days a week, but it still seems to be wearing a bit quick. However for the price you are getting that may be worth over looking.
second problem i had was their dry treatment... the dry treat the sheath and it tends to make the rope want to stick when lead belaying with a gri-gri. after a some mileage on the rope the dry treatment starts to wear off and the rope feeds like a dream but it will take some time to get to this point. Again, if you dont belay with a gri-gri then this is probably worth overlooking.
hope all this helps
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straightedge
May 22, 2005, 4:02 PM
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I have been using a 70m ARC (bicolor) Laser a couple of years now for leading rock routes (sport and trad) and have no complaints. It handles nicely and though the sheath fuzzed up quickly initially. After this initial fuzzing, it has not shown rapid wear or anything like that. It works great in a Gri-Gri, though the thin cord will creep through the Gri-Gri even when locked up, so you can't just let go and check out. I haven't needed the 70m length that often, but when that extra 10m has allowed a single rappel back to the base of crag, versus two rappels with a 60m cord, it has been sweet.
Of the people I have climbed with, everyone has liked the cord, though one guy was concerned that the cord would creep through a locked off Gri-Gri.
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feanor007
May 22, 2005, 5:39 PM
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I have an eidelwiess, good rope for the price, but it kinks up like no other. but hey, i got a 60m dry rope for $99 so i'm not complaining
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thegreytradster
May 22, 2005, 8:30 PM
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Been using one for about 9 months now and like it (9.6 Laser). I don't like the handling qualities of the thicker Edelweiss they are a little on the stiff side for my taste and the sheath texture reminds me of the old Edelrids'.
In a skinny rope though this stiffness and added texture is an advantage. It has IMO better handling qualities than most of the other skinny ropes including the Mamut version (to soft). Although, in the thicker venues Mamut is the gold standard for handling properties.
Every weekend use at J tree for a season, minimal fuzzing or signs of sheath wear. (we do reserve it for lead use and replace it with a 10.5 for the TR's)
The dry treatment appears to have held up to at least one washing. (after a desert peak, Woolite/ cold water)
No kinking problems. (With any available rope now since they all use alternating Z / S yarns, kinking problems are a function of rope commisioning, initial unwinding not the rope construction)
Good price. (the reason I bought it in the first place)
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paulraphael
May 23, 2005, 3:42 AM
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I've been using a 9.9mm arc light, bicolor with their top shelf dry treatment for a couple of years. very happy with it.
at first i was concerned because it got a lumpy feel under the sheath. i called edelweiss about it, and they took it seriously. the tech rep said it might just be because it's new and hasn't worked out some initial kinks; it should straighten itself out after a few raps, or they'd replace it. turns out it fixed itself, like he said it would. i've had no other issues.
i've been extremely impressed with the dry treatment. i had to make several raps off a teton route in a storm a couple of summers ago ... a few times i found the ends of the rope in icy puddles on ledges. the rope never felt like it took on water ... it stayed light and manageable the whole way down.
the feel is average. nothing special. but the weight is nice, the durability is impressive, and i'm comforted by the low impact force.
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scuclimber
May 23, 2005, 5:34 PM
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Bump
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crotch
May 23, 2005, 5:57 PM
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We've been using a 60m 9.6 Laser ARC for about 5 years now, and just recently retired it after heavy use. It's a great rope and we just got a second one. BTW, bicolor is worth the extra $$.
Whoever said 70m is too long for the Sierra is right. If you plan to do any simulclimbing, you'll appreciate a shorter rope.
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scuclimber
May 24, 2005, 3:30 AM
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Bump
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scuclimber
May 25, 2005, 6:24 AM
Post #12 of 22
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BTT
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scuclimber
May 27, 2005, 3:32 PM
Post #13 of 22
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Anybody else?
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sumo
Jun 3, 2005, 6:31 AM
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In reply to: somebody works at REI...
when i read the forum topic
thats the first thing that came to my mind
i'm thinking about picking up the 9.9
I just got my second mammut infinity about a week ago...
s
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scuclimber
Jun 3, 2005, 10:12 AM
Post #15 of 22
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I ended up ordering the UL 9.9x60M ARC. We'll see how it works.
Colin
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paulraphael
Jun 3, 2005, 4:05 PM
Post #16 of 22
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Please write back with your impressions.
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trenchdigger
Jun 3, 2005, 4:12 PM
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In reply to: I ended up ordering the UL 9.9x60M ARC. We'll see how it works. Colin
I ordered a blue and a green Sharp 8.5 double. Hopefully they'll let me get 2 ropes 'cause 1 double won't do me a whole lot of good. :roll:
Adam
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cchildre
Jun 3, 2005, 4:38 PM
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Registered: May 5, 2004
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I got a 70M EW for Christmas to use in Mexico. Yes it does kink a bit more than my 50M Bluewater. I am so glad that I got the 70 since I have needed it on several occasions. In Mexico, on Wolf Will Survive, I linked the 2nd and 3rd pitches together and saved a load of time. With only 15' of excess left rope drag was a bear, but worth dealing instead of building another anchor. On Super Nova, we made an 8 pitch route into 4, saved so much time it was ridiculous. We were on pitch 6 while the pair that started immediately behind us was just finishing pitch two. Tree Route at Hueco, my partner linked the two pitches together and barely made the anchor, no slack at all. I love my 70 even though it weighs a ton (10.2mm), my next 70 will be smaller for sure. I recommend that everyone keep at least one 70 in your stock especially if you out on multipitch.
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maxclimber1w
Jun 8, 2005, 12:12 AM
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I prefer 50M ropes on seldom traveled alpine routes (No established anchors), for the weight savings.
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sumo
Jun 16, 2005, 8:10 AM
Post #20 of 22
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Registered: Feb 28, 2005
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well today
I ordered a 60M 9.9 don't remember anything else
hopefully I got dry
on second thought it might be 70M
ok this is becoming less informative
hopefully they still have some in stock
S
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andrewbanandrew
Jun 16, 2005, 8:24 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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is that your third rope in 3 months?
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sumo
Jun 16, 2005, 8:27 PM
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haha leave me alone
probably 4 months
because I got my first infinity before spring break
s
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