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cosmiccragsman
May 24, 2005, 4:11 PM
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Hey Steve;
I'll climb with you at Josh. pm me. or call me. I pmed you with my phone number already.
cosmiccragsman
Dwain
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fredbob
May 24, 2005, 4:12 PM
Post #27 of 52
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In reply to: I've looked at Taqhuitz and it looks good but J-Tree is better than good - its world class so thats where I prefer to be and I'll suffer the heat to be there. I'd like to get some routes done but if nobody else can stand the heat....
Steve:
Hate to break it to you, but Tahquitz/Suicide is world class. Yes, Josh season kinda came to a sudden close this year, but don't be myopic. Where are you going to find long uber classic trad lines to rival Tahquitz? (except maybe the Needles, The Valley, Tuolumne, etc. and the high up areas are still snow bound).
Do the Vampire and tell me it isn't the best route in So Cal. Now is the prime time to hit Tahquitz/Suicide, before the summer heat puts a crimp on climbing in the full sun.
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hangerlessbolt
May 24, 2005, 4:29 PM
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In reply to: I'm looking to do routes below 5.10 ...
Doesn't look like he's pulling .11's just yet
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troutboy
May 24, 2005, 4:42 PM
Post #29 of 52
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In reply to: Josh can be climbed pretty much year-round. Chase the shade…early morning starts…mid-day breaks (run into town, catch a flick, go bowling, hang out at Denny’s and play cards, etc)…late evening cool downs…and lots of water. ~Rob
Not debating whether Josh is currently climbable, but I can go bowling, play cards, and watch a movie at home. Why travel someplace where I am forced to take at least half the day and not climb ? If I'm going to take a climbing vacation, I'm going somewhere where the season is in. Hell, I can take a week off for the Gunks and watch the weather ruin half my vacation if I want. No need to do it somewhere else :wink:
Now, if you really, really want to go to Josh (or anywhere when it's sort of out of season) and this is your only chance, well, that's different.
T
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jdouble
May 24, 2005, 5:00 PM
Post #30 of 52
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In reply to: In reply to: I've looked at Taqhuitz and it looks good but J-Tree is better than good - its world class so thats where I prefer to be and I'll suffer the heat to be there. I'd like to get some routes done but if nobody else can stand the heat.... Steve: Hate to break it to you, but Tahquitz/Suicide is world class. Yes, Josh season kinda came to a sudden close this year, but don't be myopic. Where are you going to find long uber classic trad lines to rival Tahquitz? (except maybe the Needles, The Valley, Tuolumne, etc. and the high up areas are still snow bound). Do the Vampire and tell me it isn't the best route in So Cal. Now is the prime time to hit Tahquitz/Suicide, before the summer heat puts a crimp on climbing in the full sun.
Thanks FredBob. Insomnia, The Vampire, and The Open Book felt insulted. As did I for some reason...........
Was on the Astrodomes a week ago. Many, many, many bugs, I was inhaling bugs every other breath. Might be dead by now........bring spray.
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sportweenie
May 24, 2005, 5:01 PM
Post #31 of 52
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In reply to: climbsomething wrote: Here, let me referee a bit: jt512 wrote: Chossua Tree? A low-angle wasteland if there ever was one. This is Jay being a smartass. He can and will climb at JTree, and harder than 5.9 too. He's actually more of a trad climber than most people think. Ha But he doesn't do JTree in the summer. For people in the southwestern US, late May is definitely summer. Thus... Quote: And you want to sucker someone into suffering that place with you in 100-degree weather? -Jay This is Jay trying to tell you something. Don't come all the way from Scotland to cook yourself like a poached egg, and don't purposely seek the desert sun this time of year, jeebus. Use some common sense. Go to Tahquitz for summer trad in SoCal.
So jt512 needs someone to explain his posts? So you've slept with him I guess?
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hangerlessbolt
May 24, 2005, 5:21 PM
Post #32 of 52
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:shock: :shock: :shock:
I think I just wet myself
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hangerlessbolt
May 24, 2005, 5:23 PM
Post #33 of 52
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In reply to: In reply to: Josh can be climbed pretty much year-round. Chase the shade…early morning starts…mid-day breaks (run into town, catch a flick, go bowling, hang out at Denny’s and play cards, etc)…late evening cool downs…and lots of water. ~Rob Not debating whether Josh is currently climbable, but I can go bowling, play cards, and watch a movie at home. Why travel someplace where I am forced to take at least half the day and not climb ? If I'm going to take a climbing vacation, I'm going somewhere where the season is in. Hell, I can take a week off for the Gunks and watch the weather ruin half my vacation if I want. No need to do it somewhere else :wink: Now, if you really, really want to go to Josh (or anywhere when it's sort of out of season) and this is your only chance, well, that's different. T
In deed and I would tend to agree...however, he appears to be coming from Arizona...wait, that's Scottsdale...where is Scotland in relation to SoCal
/easily amused
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micronut
May 24, 2005, 6:13 PM
Post #34 of 52
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In reply to: In reply to: climbsomething wrote: Here, let me referee a bit: jt512 wrote: Chossua Tree? A low-angle wasteland if there ever was one. This is Jay being a smartass. He can and will climb at JTree, and harder than 5.9 too. He's actually more of a trad climber than most people think. Ha But he doesn't do JTree in the summer. For people in the southwestern US, late May is definitely summer. Thus... Quote: And you want to sucker someone into suffering that place with you in 100-degree weather? -Jay This is Jay trying to tell you something. Don't come all the way from Scotland to cook yourself like a poached egg, and don't purposely seek the desert sun this time of year, jeebus. Use some common sense. Go to Tahquitz for summer trad in SoCal. So jt512 needs someone to explain his posts? So you've slept with him I guess?
In reply to: :shock: :shock: :shock: I think I just wet myself
it would have been better if it wasn't some troll account.
step up and sign your name, that's a four star post.
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peggo
May 25, 2005, 12:12 AM
Post #35 of 52
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Hi Steve,
I may be arriving Sunday or Monday (29 or 30), and wanting to climb a few days. I'll check as well as post @ the bulletin board at the Hidden Valley campsite.
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pheenixx
May 25, 2005, 1:02 AM
Post #36 of 52
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Josh can be climbed pretty much year-round. Chase the shade…early morning starts…mid-day breaks (run into town, catch a flick, go bowling, hang out at Denny’s and play cards, etc)…late evening cool downs…and lots of water. ~Rob ... Now, if you really, really want to go to Josh (or anywhere when it's sort of out of season) and this is your only chance, well, that's different. T In deed and I would tend to agree...however, he appears to be coming from Arizona...wait, that's Scottsdale...where is Scotland in relation to SoCal /easily amused
HAhahahahaha ~ we're a bit closer to the SUN than SoCal. h.bolt.
Funny postings - steve_in_scotland ~ all of ya's if ya'll like it hot -- stop being weanies and come out here to Phoenix. It's just now warming up - was 110 last weekend. I looked at my thermometer in my truck as I got in and woosh - it was over 120 (therm doesn't go higher - purchased in Canada).
There is such a thing as it being just too hot to climb outide (I've survived 4 summers here) but hey -- we all go through phases and some of us have had enough and would rather suffer physically with "hard" climbing than sweating off the rock in heatstroke-mania. Shoe rubber melting and feet swelling in tiny shoes on hot rock wears thin for some who have "been there".
steve_in_scotland ~ have fun..! -- and don't forget your sunscreen if you should run out of shade. I assume you have fair skin and the burns here can be brutal. :oops:
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climbsomething
May 25, 2005, 1:32 AM
Post #37 of 52
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Don't be such a pussy, sportweenie. Tell us you're dfoerestel.
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sportweenie
May 25, 2005, 2:37 PM
Post #38 of 52
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In reply to: Don't be such a pussy, sportweenie. Tell us you're dfoerestel. _________________
Foolish of me to think I could hide from such an rc.com power couple.
Dave
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crackmd
May 25, 2005, 2:50 PM
Post #39 of 52
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Registered: Mar 24, 2002
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Some of my finest climbing days have been at crags that the masses perceive as "out of season". There are hundreds of routes in the shade at Jtree. Prove all these nay-sayers wrong and have a killer day climbing. I would join you but have to work this weekend.
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murf
May 25, 2005, 3:36 PM
Post #40 of 52
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In reply to: Hell, this time of the year Gunsmoke is in the shade most of the day and there's a tree to sit under while you shake out! I had the route to myself for hours and I'm thinking where is everyone?
Gunsmoke is where you go if you need to buy weed during a climbing day. You don't actually go there to boulder.
In reply to: I've looked at Taqhuitz and it looks good but J-Tree is better than good - its world class
If you haven't looked at Tahquitz while
- trying to avoid putting your knee down on Traitor Horn
- getting alittle pumped on the big jams of Open Book
- realizing the hard part wasn't the crux of Fred
- trusting the feet on Human Fright
- figuring out that last move on the Bat Crack
- trying to figure out how to make Super Pooper be 5.10-
- wondering why there's a line on Whodunit while you are cruising up The Illegitimate
- OR best of all..... Feeling sorry for the headlamps 1/2 up the White Maiden while you are drinking in the parking lot...
you ain't really looked at Tahquitz.
Murf
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crackmd
May 25, 2005, 4:06 PM
Post #41 of 52
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In reply to: If you haven't looked at Tahquitz while - trying to avoid putting your knee down on Traitor Horn - getting alittle pumped on the big jams of Open Book - realizing the hard part wasn't the crux of Fred - trusting the feet on Human Fright - figuring out that last move on the Bat Crack - trying to figure out how to make Super Pooper be 5.10- - wondering why there's a line on Whodunit while you are cruising up The Illegitimate - OR best of all..... Feeling sorry for the headlamps 1/2 up the White Maiden while you are drinking in the parking lot... you ain't really looked at Tahquitz. Murf
I agree. Tahquitz is awesome. I would add to your list, trying to figure out where to traverse right on the Green Arch. That was some scary stuff.
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murf
May 25, 2005, 4:34 PM
Post #42 of 52
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In reply to: In reply to: If you haven't looked at Tahquitz while - trying to avoid putting your knee down on Traitor Horn - getting alittle pumped on the big jams of Open Book - realizing the hard part wasn't the crux of Fred - trusting the feet on Human Fright - figuring out that last move on the Bat Crack - trying to figure out how to make Super Pooper be 5.10- - wondering why there's a line on Whodunit while you are cruising up The Illegitimate - OR best of all..... Feeling sorry for the headlamps 1/2 up the White Maiden while you are drinking in the parking lot... you ain't really looked at Tahquitz. Murf I agree. Tahquitz is awesome. I would add to your list, trying to figure out where to traverse right on the Green Arch. That was some scary stuff.
Oh yeah, there's a ton more...
- thanking the gods it is not very hot when you're on The Heathen
- trying not to cry cause your feet hurt on Wilma/Bedrock et al
- how to get past 10 parties on lunch ledge
- wondering why no one does Ziggy Stardust and the Spiders from Mars
- cursing the gods that the sun is out on Field of Dreams
- coming upon an abondoned belay with 3 cams, a cordellete, and 5 biners
- trying to figure out where to traverse right on The Flakes
- wondering why no one does the Z crack while gardening w/your nut tool
- wondering why 5.7 feels so hard on The Swallow
- making a wrong turn on Sahara Terror/Consolation/Long Wong or anything else up high
The list goes on and on...
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steve_in_scotland
May 26, 2005, 4:29 AM
Post #43 of 52
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Posts: 80
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Hi,
Thanks for the positive vibes guys...... and thanks for the heads up on Taqhuitz. This scotsman will be in Josh this weekend and I will have a killer day on nice quiet crags ... its gonna be a blast. But while I'm there I will pop into the best climbing shop in the world (Nomads) and check out a guidebook on Taqhuitz for next weekend.
Cheers
Steve
ps anyone need a partner for weekend after next for Taqhuitz?
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trenchdigger
May 26, 2005, 5:53 AM
Post #44 of 52
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Posts: 1447
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In reply to: Here, let me referee a bit: In reply to: Chossua Tree? A low-angle wasteland if there ever was one. This is Jay being a smartass. He can and will climb at JTree, and harder than 5.9 too. He's actually more of a trad climber than most people think. Ha ;) But he doesn't do JTree in the summer. For people in the southwestern US, late May is definitely summer. Thus... In reply to: And you want to sucker someone into suffering that place with you in 100-degree weather? -Jay This is Jay trying to tell you something. Don't come all the way from Scotland to cook yourself like a poached egg, and don't purposely seek the desert sun this time of year, jeebus. Use some common sense. Go to Tahquitz for summer trad in SoCal.
What you all don't understand is that summer is about the best time to climb in JTree with one caveat; you have to pick the right days. If it's going to be under 95 in town, it's very climbable in the park a couple thousand feet higher. Stay in the shade and you're fine. Climb from 5-11am, nap from noon to 3 under a boulder, and climb from 4-9pm. One of my best trips to JTree was in August last year. There was nobody there... I mean NOBODY.
So um yah... it's way too hot to climb in JTree from May to October. You're best off staying out of the park and going to Tahquitz so you can get stuck behind a cluster fuck of gumbies and take 6 hours to finish a 3 pitch route.
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jt512
May 26, 2005, 2:01 PM
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In reply to: What you all don't understand is that summer is about the best time to climb in JTree... Climb from 5-11am...
There's a contradiction right there.
-Jay
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trenchdigger
May 26, 2005, 3:19 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: What you all don't understand is that summer is about the best time to climb in JTree... Climb from 5-11am... There's a contradiction right there. -Jay
That's right... you'll be rolling into the Williamson parking lot around 10:30 with the other 30 fools from LA, Starbucks in hand, and eyes still glazed over 'cause it's so early in the morning.
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jt512
May 26, 2005, 3:55 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: What you all don't understand is that summer is about the best time to climb in JTree... Climb from 5-11am... There's a contradiction right there. -Jay That's right... you'll be rolling into the Williamson parking lot around 10:30 with the other 30 fools from LA, Starbucks in hand, and eyes still glazed over 'cause it's so early in the morning.
1 pm, actually, when the routes go into the shade, and the n00bs, having been climbing in the sun all morning, are burnt out and just leaving.
-Jay
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steve_in_scotland
May 27, 2005, 6:00 AM
Post #48 of 52
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[quote="jt512"][quote="trenchdigger"]In reply to: 1 pm, actually, when the routes go into the shade, and the n00bs, having been climbing in the sun all morning, are burnt out and just leaving. -Jay
You So Cal boys don't know a good time when you see it!
Man I climb in scotland where we are lucky to see the sun 2 days in a row in the summer. If I waited for the sun to come out I would never get a route done. I cannot conceive a time when its too hot to climb and yes I have climbed in Jtree in July and Phoenix in May (and Spain in May) and I can tell you from experience that sun is ALWAYS preferable to rain. Drop down a grade and real men can always get a route done.
Come to Glencoe on the west coast of scotland with me in summer when the rock is damp and slimy even on days when its warm and you will begin to appreciate the sun. As the song says ... When will you go, lassie go ...????
Mind you if you can't cope with a bit of slime and damp on a route you should take up a radical cool sport like skating or boarding anyway.
Cheers
Steve
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cosmiccragsman
May 30, 2005, 3:40 AM
Post #49 of 52
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I had the pleasure to climb with Steve in Scotland this Memorial Day weekend, and we had a blast. Never got too hot at all. But the best part of all there were no crowds or waiting in lines at all to climb. After living and climbing there for over 40 years, any more I have more fun climbing there in the late Spring and Summer. NO CROWDS! And, You can find a
camping space. So Thanks to all you climbers who won't climb there during the summer.
It was Great climbing with you Steve. Hope to climb with you again soon out there.
cosmiccragsman
P.S. Thanks for the Beers and great company also
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murf
May 30, 2005, 5:27 PM
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In reply to: Never got too hot at all.
Ironically, low rain/cloud cover and a fateful coin toss on the way to Tahquitz had us climbing at JT on Sunday. Even more so, we went to Indian Cove ( although it was really a remote Rattlesnake wall ).
Open mouth, insert crow!
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