|
knigh7
Jun 27, 2005, 2:06 PM
Post #1 of 31
(3904 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2005
Posts: 8
|
I’d like to know which muscle group is used during climbing so that I can incorporate climbing with my current gym routine.
Thanks
|
|
|
|
|
bill413
Jun 27, 2005, 2:10 PM
Post #2 of 31
(3904 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674
|
One of the great things about climbing is that it uses a wide array of muscles - perhaps more so than any other sport (well, maybe gymnastics).
You can be pushing or pulling with any limb.
So, train everything - and work on core strength.
|
|
|
|
|
knigh7
Jun 27, 2005, 2:25 PM
Post #3 of 31
(3904 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2005
Posts: 8
|
agreed, when i climb, it feels as if i workout all of my muscles, but what i am after is which muscles are used the most, this is because i workout at the gym three times a week doing and would like to incorporate my workout
Tue: chest/tri
Wed: rest
Thur: back/bi
Friday: rest
Saturday: shoulder/legs
Sunday: Climbing
Monday: Rest
what i'm thinking is say if climbing works the back and bi then i can sometimes go climbing on Thursdays...
|
|
|
|
|
rickrock77
Jun 27, 2005, 2:44 PM
Post #4 of 31
(3904 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 20, 2005
Posts: 139
|
It is fair to say that you use all muslces in your upper body, and lower back, and legs. Which means your entire body.
however, you could just work upper body, by bending your arms a lot when climbing, and pulling yourself up rather than using your legs.
I actually train, for strength , by traversing, bouldering, across the indoor wall only using one arm. I steady and hold with the other, like to get chalk, but I do all the moves as much as I can with the one arm, and then I go back with the other. Carefull how much isolate muscles, you dont want to rip anything...
|
|
|
|
|
dingus
Jun 27, 2005, 2:48 PM
Post #5 of 31
(3904 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
|
I use my schlong group extensively when climbing, so that is the group I focus on in the gym.
DMT
|
|
|
|
|
nafod
Jun 27, 2005, 3:38 PM
Post #6 of 31
(3904 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 5, 2003
Posts: 110
|
In reply to: Tue: chest/tri Wed: rest Thur: back/bi Friday: rest Saturday: shoulder/legs
That's a bodybuilding-ish type of workout scheme. You might want to look at something more strength/sports training oriented, focusing on whole body strength (which is what you need for climbing).
|
|
|
|
|
danegerous
Jun 27, 2005, 3:46 PM
Post #7 of 31
(3904 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 21, 2005
Posts: 141
|
be careful with how much you gym train vs the amount of climbing you do. ive spoken with several pro climbers as well as trainers and gym owners, and im sure you'll find the same info if you research it.
if you excercise more in the gym than you do on the crag, you'll be ading muscles in places you dont need them, adding irrelevant extra weight.
everyone says, the best way to get in the best climbing shape, is to shed pounds and add strength. to be sure you're adding the right strength to right places, climb...of course pullups and all that work, but thats similar to practice at a batting cage only teaches 40% of the game. the rest must be learned on the spot, with experience.
what ive bene doing is running and riding bikes to cut the weight, and climbing three times a week. i also go canoeing for some serious arm and overall body toning.
of course lifting is going to be harmful to anything, but it may be somewhat backwards of what your climbing goals are...i had to almost give up the gym...my lifting goals were to gain weight from muscle, my climbing goals are to lose weight and tweak muscle...
hope that helps at all.
|
|
|
|
|
bdplayer
Jun 27, 2005, 3:55 PM
Post #8 of 31
(3904 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 26, 2003
Posts: 195
|
Also too, climbing isn't as much about bute strength (although needed at times), but finesse and grip strength/contact strength. You can be a regular Ahnold, but if you can't hold on long enough to clip your rope in, and be able to move on, you can't get to the spots you need 'hugely strong mooscles.' A big help too, is to keep your cardio up. It sucks getting out of breath when your muscles aren't pooped out yet, but you have to pause to catch your breath, and get pumped just sitting there.
I will lift chest and tris as a group and finish out the session with a rock ring/hangboard workout, run the next day, do pullups and abs, next day legs, and then spend a day of rest. I get in all the other groups haphazardly, as I feel like it.
|
|
|
|
|
onsight_endorphines
Jun 27, 2005, 4:00 PM
Post #9 of 31
(3904 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 14, 2004
Posts: 226
|
In reply to: I use my schlong group extensively when climbing, so that is the group I focus on in the gym.
Niiicceee.
|
|
|
|
|
bluenose
Jun 27, 2005, 4:09 PM
Post #10 of 31
(3904 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2005
Posts: 227
|
In reply to: In reply to: Tue: chest/tri Wed: rest Thur: back/bi Friday: rest Saturday: shoulder/legs That's a bodybuilding-ish type of workout scheme. You might want to look at something more strength/sports training oriented, focusing on whole body strength (which is what you need for climbing).
Bodybuilding-ish? It's a workout. It's the exercises, set and rep schemes that are determined by your goals that say what the plan is going to produce. Start out with all round strength in mind followed by cutting some fat followed by some endurance. That plan could work the whole body, I would add forearms and abs into it though. Legs and abs, then shoulders and forearms. I like to use freeweights for everything so back and leg days really nail the forearms THEN I hit them with their own day as well.
If you are going to be a pro climber or have 5.12+ aspirations, it may not be the ideal but for all the duffers out here it will work just fine.
I am doing a similar four day split, losing fat and working my endurance up. I gave a lot of thought to muscle groups and came to the conclusion that climbing will involve all muscles a certain amount, so I work everything. Once on the rock I expect that you will still find muscles that you didn't know you weren't working, those are the ones that you can almost only work while actually climbing.
I am really hitting my forearms right now, working on grips. I did some climbing, found what got pumped first and what was the sorest the following days and went from there.
|
|
|
|
|
nafod
Jun 27, 2005, 4:22 PM
Post #11 of 31
(3904 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 5, 2003
Posts: 110
|
In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Tue: chest/tri Wed: rest Thur: back/bi Friday: rest Saturday: shoulder/legs That's a bodybuilding-ish type of workout scheme. You might want to look at something more strength/sports training oriented, focusing on whole body strength (which is what you need for climbing). Bodybuilding-ish? It's a workout.
I agree it's a workout, but I'm picking on that sort of workout in general. Pet peeve of mine. You are isolating chest and tri for example. Or even better, isolating biceps. When do you ever do isolated movements in climbing, i.e., just use the biceps? If you do, it's probably carry over from the bodybuilding, and is less than optimum. More likely, all climbing moves are whole body moves. even when focused on a set of muscles, the rest of the body is usually in tension of some sort.
How do you isolate legs from back? You have them on different days. Any kind of squat (the king of leg exercises) is going to work the heck out of the lower back too.
So why not do all exercises as whole body exercises? Deadlifts, for example, are awesome exercises that work the whole body simultaneously. Dumbbell swings are great, and don't have the risk of injury that deads do if done with poor form. There's a whole slew of great whole body exercises that are ignored by the bodybuilding gym following.
Train (with the whole body) like you play (with the whole body).
|
|
|
|
|
njari
Jun 27, 2005, 4:26 PM
Post #12 of 31
(3904 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 18, 2003
Posts: 160
|
In reply to: Tue: chest/tri Wed: rest Thur: back/bi Friday: rest Saturday: shoulder/legs Sunday: Climbing Monday: Rest what i'm thinking is say if climbing works the back and bi then i can sometimes go climbing on Thursdays... |
|
|
|
|
bluenose
Jun 27, 2005, 4:34 PM
Post #13 of 31
(3904 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2005
Posts: 227
|
Big lifts are the most important. I do bis on back because as I work my back, my bis are working some as well. I just finish them off with their own sets.
Squats are primarily legs but involves lots of otrher muscles as well.
Personally I don't hyper-isolate very often but it certainly has it's usefulness too.
I do deads for back (regular) and for legs (straight legged, glutes and hams). Military presses, cleans, compound lat raises, a variety of rows, pullups....
What it boils down to is that not just any plan will work for everyone's goals. This style works well for me, right now. Check with me next year, maybe I'll be doing something different...although I don't know it yet.
Set up your own that works for you and go with it.
|
|
|
|
|
njari
Jun 27, 2005, 4:38 PM
Post #14 of 31
(3904 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 18, 2003
Posts: 160
|
In reply to: I did some climbing, found what got pumped first and what was the sorest the following days and went from there. |
|
|
|
|
bluenose
Jun 27, 2005, 4:39 PM
Post #15 of 31
(3904 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2005
Posts: 227
|
"There's a whole slew of great whole body exercises that are ignored by the bodybuilding gym following. "
I missed that little tidbit. If you actually talk to any serious BBers they will be able to show you exercises that you've never heard of in addition to all the "standards" which you refer to. The gym following that you refer to are usually very mis-informed posers, at best, who don't even do the exercises that they DO perform with anything near proper form.
|
|
|
|
|
renohandjams
Jun 27, 2005, 4:44 PM
Post #16 of 31
(3904 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 24, 2005
Posts: 616
|
If you look at big wall climbers they look like Alley-Oop, their forarms are massive compared to their biceps. So when I train I forus a lot on my forarms, triceps and my back muslces.
One of my favorite workouts for climbing is the bull down bar because it mimics a two handed pullup, but you can use different angles.
Another important thing for climbing as well is to work on your body fat, the lower your body fat percentage the easier you can throw yourself around and the lighter you will feel.
I would also go for more reps (15-20+) for climbing. Usually lower rep counts, 5-10 are for bulking up which isn't what you want for climbing.
-Kenny
------------------------
TradRack.com SuperStore
Free Email Accounts, yourname@TradRack.com, only 100 to give
Click here to see if your name is available
|
|
|
|
|
renohandjams
Jun 27, 2005, 4:48 PM
Post #17 of 31
(3904 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 24, 2005
Posts: 616
|
Many of you already know this, but for the ones that don't:
Stength doesn't always help with climbing:
I had a friend with 20inch biceps, could bench 350 lbs, etc.. and he SUCKED at climbing, it was physically exhausting for him, mainly because his biceps and shoulders were two big, they got in the way, and when the rest of us were moving our 140-160 pound bodies around he was fussy with his clumsy 220 pound body under the overhang. He also had the wrong muscle build, football type, instead of climber type. Those 20 inchs biceps were worthless...... unless of course they had been 20 inch triceps :shock:
-Kenny
------------------------
TradRack.com SuperStore
Free Email Accounts, yourname@TradRack.com, only 100 to give
Click here to see if your name is available
|
|
|
|
|
nafod
Jun 27, 2005, 5:33 PM
Post #18 of 31
(3904 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 5, 2003
Posts: 110
|
If I had to pick one non-climbing specific exercise to do to balance things out, but not take up lots of non-climbing time, it'd be the barbell clean & jerk. Or the dumbbell snatch. I had never done either of them before until December of the prvious year (1.5 years ago). I started looking for a program to rehab the back from an injury. They rock. Pick up something heavy and put it over your head.
Using the metric of what is sore afterwards, they work pretty much the whole body. Killer core workout (core including glute-hams-lower back, not just abs) arms, shoulders, back, legs, forearms. If you do them for reps, they work the heart HUGE. They train explosiveness (basically, you are jumping with weights). They don't really work the chest, that's about it.
The US secret service uses as a test for gauging whole body stamina and endurance a kettlebell snatch (like a dumbbell snatch). Just take a dumbbell (pick your weight) up with one arm and put it over your head as many times as you can in 10 minutes. Alternate hands as you choose. Note max numbr of reps. Try to beat next time. Stand by the barf if you go 100%
Similar, do the barbell clean & jerk for 30 reps in as little time as possible. I use 135 LBs. Either workout will be over in less than 15-20 minutes, but you WILL feel worked like a bodybuilding style workout can't do.
Surprisingly, for both often the grip is the limiting factor towards the end of the rep count.
|
|
|
|
|
cmacblue42
Jun 27, 2005, 5:51 PM
Post #19 of 31
(3904 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 22, 2004
Posts: 131
|
you work all your muscles when you climb, you work your core on overhangs and when u need to stay close to the wall or under a hold, you work your forearms, triceps, biceps, trapezius, deltoids, and fingers when you hang on and pull your self up, you work your legs since they push you and you build endurance if you do roped climbs or traverses if you boulder so it is a whole body workout.
|
|
|
|
|
nafod
Jun 27, 2005, 5:58 PM
Post #20 of 31
(3904 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 5, 2003
Posts: 110
|
In reply to: ...you work your core on overhangs...
An interesting question for people. What do you define as "core"?
|
|
|
|
|
grover
Jun 27, 2005, 6:01 PM
Post #21 of 31
(3904 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 17, 2002
Posts: 569
|
In reply to: I’d like to know which muscle group is used during climbing so that I can incorporate climbing with my current gym routine. Thanks
The MOUTH muscle-group!
Cause in the long run, spayin, spewing and plain ole shit talkin, is gonna take you further than any weight training out there.
|
|
|
|
|
gat
Jun 27, 2005, 6:58 PM
Post #22 of 31
(3904 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 3, 2003
Posts: 420
|
In reply to: I’d like to know which muscle group is used during climbing so that I can incorporate climbing with my current gym routine. Thanks
Cremaster muscles. They are small, but very important if placing your own gear.
|
|
|
|
|
knigh7
Jun 28, 2005, 8:37 AM
Post #23 of 31
(3904 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2005
Posts: 8
|
Thanks guys, all the posts are gold, gives me more than enough to work on :D :D :D :D :D :D
Knigh7
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
Jun 28, 2005, 12:44 PM
Post #24 of 31
(3904 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
the muscles the work the most are leg extendors (calfs and quadriceps), arm flexors (biceps) and upper back muscles while the core musles (stomach and lower back) stabilize the body. and offcourse finger flexors, but theses are hard to train effectively in the gym since finger tendons are kinda hard to target and training muscles and forgetting about tendons quickly leads to injury..
but you use all mucles to some extent or the other. and i mean all.
the best way to train for climbing in a weight lifting gym would be to work on your arm and torso mucles. but try not to put on too much weight or youll do more harm than good.
|
|
|
|
|
bluenose
Jun 28, 2005, 1:07 PM
Post #25 of 31
(3904 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2005
Posts: 227
|
In reply to: the muscles the work the most are leg extendors (calfs and quadriceps), arm flexors (biceps) and upper back muscles while the core musles (stomach and lower back) stabilize the body. and offcourse finger flexors, but theses are hard to train effectively in the gym since finger tendons are kinda hard to target and training muscles and forgetting about tendons quickly leads to injury.. but you use all mucles to some extent or the other. and i mean all. the best way to train for climbing in a weight lifting gym would be to work on your arm and torso mucles. but try not to put on too much weight or youll do more harm than good.
TRY not to put on too much weight?
Does anyone realize exactly how hard it is to put on muscle mass?
It's not easy, you have to work hard at it and eat reasonably right. I always get a kick out of the "I don't work out with weights in case I get huge" crowd. If that were the case all these skinny gym morons that are TRYING to get ripped would already be there.
Hit the weights. If you actually find that you are gaining too much muscle it's VERY easy to slow down. You might actually get some benefit out of the fat burning that happens with resistance training.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
