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shear
Jul 27, 2005, 8:18 PM
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im trying really hard to get somewhere this week...jesus i miss NC climbing. being here all week and having this heat wave is killing me.
plus...i have my girlfriend to consider...who climbs moderate routes, 5.8-9ish. and im trying to take her into consideration as well.
so i was checking out Table Rock and saw that there are multi-pitch sport routes there...and my curiousity peaked.
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bootleg
Jul 27, 2005, 11:43 PM
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The climbing is great there. I love the place. I see you like sport but there are some great multi-pitch trad routes down in the Amphitheater and NC Wall. Same parking but different crags.
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j_ung
Jul 28, 2005, 12:10 AM
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Are you looking specifically for sport routes or are you game for some trad, too? If you're up for it, Shortoff really is the best crag for sub-5.10 moderates in the entire gorge. Maginot Line, Construction Job and Dopey Duck would make for a fucking fantastic day. :D
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shear
Jul 28, 2005, 1:54 AM
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Well...I can lead 5.10 trad...but have a minimal rack right now:
full set stoppers
hexes
micro stoppers
full set TCUs
#3 and .75 camalots
thats all i have for gear.
so yeah, unless i can do routes with that rack.... :? ...im sticking to the bolts.
but how are the bolted routes there? are they quality? any info would be greatly appreciated...thanks a lot.
blake
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goober
Jul 28, 2005, 2:07 AM
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There's plenty of "trad" routes that you can do with that rack. Heck that's way more gear than you'll be able to use at Big Green or Whitesides :lol:... just to name a few.
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zarathustra
Jul 28, 2005, 2:45 AM
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Table has a lot of cool easier routes. Check out north ridge (5.5) and white lightning (5.9) for something a bit harder. Do cave route or cave route to my route (5.5 ish if i recall correctly) at dusk and walk off in the dark for a real treat. Ampitheater/NC wall is sort of a hike in, which might cut into your climbing time but it's worth it. Good luck, and climb safe.
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dirtineye
Jul 28, 2005, 11:01 AM
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In reply to: There's plenty of "trad" routes that you can do with that rack. Heck that's way more gear than you'll be able to use at Big Green or Whitesides :lol:... just to name a few.
I wouldn't want to be in NC tradding without tricams.
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fanederhand
Jul 28, 2005, 11:19 AM
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bump
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fanederhand
Jul 28, 2005, 11:23 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: There's plenty of "trad" routes that you can do with that rack. Heck that's way more gear than you'll be able to use at Big Green or Whitesides :lol:... just to name a few. I wouldn't want to be in NC tradding without tricams.
I would not use Whitesides as a good example to compare with Table Rock even though they have some similarities in geological structure. ... The RACK you have will be OK for Table Rock. You wont need Tricams either (Table Rock is not at all like Looking Glass which is granite). Gear placement in the Gneiss there is some of the best in the country. This is a gear (i.e. TRAD) area not a sport climbing area (thank goodness).
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fanederhand
Jul 28, 2005, 11:29 AM
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In reply to: Are you looking specifically for sport routes or are you game for some trad, too? If you're up for it, Shortoff really is the best crag for sub-5.10 moderates in the entire gorge. Maginot Line, Construction Job and Dopey Duck would make for a f---ing fantastic day. :D
Shortoff is a great place but a lot harder to get to. In consideration for your girlfriend Table Rock is much much better than Shortoff to go to.
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shear
Jul 28, 2005, 11:36 AM
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ok, so Table Rock it is.
now...the routes that are said to be "sport", which i know is a very loosely used term around here.............pretty good routes? will my "rack" suffice for runout areas?
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thorne
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Jul 28, 2005, 4:03 PM
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One thing to note about Table Rock is the East Face gets sun most of the day.
Cracker Jack (5.8 trad) is in the shade 'til mid afternoon.
The North Ridge (5.5 trad), True Grit/White Lightening (5.8+ trad) and Second Stanza (5.8+ trad) get shady in late morning.
What's Up Doc (5.10+ mixed - bring your small stuff) is excellent.
If you're fortunate enough to get a cool shady day, do Skip To My Lou (5.6 bolted) to My Route (5.6 mixed). Easy terrain, one long climb.
Now about Saturday???
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beaker
Jul 28, 2005, 4:10 PM
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You said it, j_ung......I'd say Shortoff is the call. We were there last weekend, did the aforementioned routes....SUPERclassic and beautiful. The weather was perfect, and we had the whole gorge to ourselves.
I've never done Table Rock and maybe never will......slabby runouts in the hot sun is not my game. Your rack should be fine; tricams are helpful, but we only placed a half dozen in 3 days.
Oh, and fanederhand, what the f%$# is this supposed to mean: In reply to: Shortoff is a great place but a lot harder to get to. In consideration for your girlfriend Table Rock is much much better than Shortoff to go to. |
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shear
Jul 28, 2005, 4:17 PM
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In reply to: You said it, j_ung......I'd say Shortoff is the call. We were there last weekend, did the aforementioned routes....SUPERclassic and beautiful. The weather was perfect, and we had the whole gorge to ourselves. I've never done Table Rock and maybe never will......slabby runouts in the hot sun is not my game. Your rack should be fine; tricams are helpful, but we only placed a half dozen in 3 days.
how far of an approach is shortoff?
again...its the g/f im concerned about....and my rack would be good for that area as well?
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thorne
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Jul 28, 2005, 4:41 PM
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About 45 minutes of continuous, moderate uphill.
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saxfiend
Jul 28, 2005, 4:42 PM
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In reply to: Is there some implied sexism in this comment? I'm a 120# female, and I hauled 3 days worth of hiking gear up the Shortoff trail Friday and then climbed all day. Whatever. :roll:
JL
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beaker
Jul 28, 2005, 5:23 PM
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I understand, but Maginot line is 5.7+, Little Corner is 5.6, both are 4 or more pitches.....there are dozens of moderate, safe lines there; more than at most of the places mentioned in this thread (Whitesides?!). A 45 minute uphill hike hardly requires climbing ability.
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j_ung
Jul 28, 2005, 5:27 PM
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One route that is a must-do at Table Rock is a little single-pitch 10d mixed number called Waste-a-bit. Fucking stellar, I tell ya. Take a handful of draws, one set of TCUs and your #3 Camalot for a funky mantle down low. The anchor is fixed.
Thorne's route list is really good, too.
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j_ung
Jul 28, 2005, 5:31 PM
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Hey beaker, is your username in homage to Dr. Bunson Honeydew's assistant?
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beaker
Jul 28, 2005, 5:35 PM
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Why, of course, j_ung :) Who else?
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fanederhand
Jul 28, 2005, 10:01 PM
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In reply to: I've never done Table Rock ,,,,. Oh, and fanederhand, what ... is this supposed to mean: In reply to: Shortoff is a great place but a lot harder to get to. In consideration for your girlfriend Table Rock is much much better than Shortoff to go to. Is there some implied sexism in this comment? I'm a 120# female, and I hauled 3 days worth of hiking gear up the Shortoff trail Friday and then climbed all day. Whatever. :roll:
Yes, I am afraid there was, not to hurt your feelings Beaker, but you are lucky to be able to haul, TRAD gear, Food, Camping Gear, and water up 1300 foot vertical in less than two miles and then backpack another mile to a camp-site near water and the decent gully. Then descend a 1000 vertical feet down a steep decent gully and then climb a 4 to 5 pitch route all in one day. On top of that water is sometimes spotty on shortoff mountain so you may have to haul all of your water too. Or do you think that our fellow climber (Shear) and his girl friend would prefer to car camp at Table rock ( where he can bring all the water he needs) and walk with only his climbing gear less than 1/4 a mile and only 100 to 200 foot vertical to the base of some equally nice climbs as you mentioned at Shortoff. So, Shear you and your fine young lady decide. Again, I love Shortoff, but it is a lot more of an undertaking to climb there than at Table Rock. Shear, you are welcome to PM me if you want any more info on the Linville Gorge area climbing.
FAN
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goober
Jul 29, 2005, 12:36 AM
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The decent gully at Shortoff is the only issue that you might have with your "significant other" if she doesn't climb. And this website has a fairly updated selection of routes at Shortoff, most of which do require a rack.
In all seriousness, I'd recommend Hawksbill for more "moderate" bolt clipping fun. Plus there are no decent gullies to negotiate.
If you have any specific questions on beta feel free to give me a PM.
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beaker
Jul 29, 2005, 1:16 PM
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My feelings aren't hurt, FAN (except perhaps by calling my physical strength and stamina 'luck')....I'm no feminist; men are physically stronger by biology. I have to train twice as hard to carry the equal amount of gear that my partner requires I carry. I suppose because of the climbing we like, I'm not put off by a fairly moderate hike and approach (to me, a tough descent is Checkerboard Wall at the Black, Gunnison, and that IS tough). I guess I'm just stoked on Shortoff; we plan to go back soon; it truly was stellar. Fine with me if people stay away because of an 'arduous' approach and descent :) More peace and quiet for us.
North Carolina has some phenomenal climbing (thank God), I'm sure Shear and his S.O will have a blast whereever they choose. If Shortoff is still in the running, I'll just say that last weekend the spring was freely flowing and there has been rain; we dumped the majority of the heavy water we carried up. It was also very cool and comfortable.
Cheers.
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shear
Jul 30, 2005, 3:26 AM
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do you guys think itll be dry tomorrow? we didnt go today...thought it was way too wet.
but hoping to get out tomorrow morning...anyone living in the area with some beta would be greatly appreciated.
thanks............. 8^)
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