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fluxus
Aug 1, 2005, 7:02 PM
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Hey folks,
For those that are interested, here is a heads up on a new book and DVD that is going to be hitting the streets in October.
its called The Self-Coached Climber
Its a instructional book targeting intermediate and advanced climbers but it also includes content usefull for beginners.
its about 260 pages with over 140 illustrations and photos.
the DVD contains 85 minutes of content much of it being video examples of the activities included in the book. The DVD also includes content from the project's sponsors (Evolv, Petzl, Entre Prises, and Blue Water) as well as a 30 minute documentary about Chris Lindner and Adam Stack Redpointing The Big R 5.14a/b at Smith Rocks.
The book is in three sections
1) movement: This contains chapters on balance, body awareness, turning and flagging, movement initiation and how to learn movement. It contains over 30 movement training activities to do while climbing.
2) physical training: Contains chapters on aerobic and anaerobic endurance as well as strength and power. It also contains climbing performance specific activities as well as the most up-to-date description of the science available.
3) performance: Contains assessments of your climbing history, goal setting aids and how to know if your goals are good for you. It also includes sample training days and weeks for abilitiy levels from 5.10 to 5.14b.
There is a page up on Amazon.com where you can see the cover.
http://www.amazon.com/...nce&s=books&n=507846
For anyone who will be at the OR show in two weeks, preview copies will be available at the Stackpole booth and the authors (me and Dan Hague my co-author) will have times at the R&I table at the center of the show. I think friday at 4:30 is the first slot.
Here is the spray from the back cover:
“A REFRESHING PERSPECTIVE and a wonderful addition to any climber’s library, The Self-Coached Climber fills an important niche in today’s climbing literature. With technical explanations of kinesiology, anatomy, and physiology and practical tips on movement and training, this book will help any climber, from the weekend warrior to the full-time professional. Readers will learn how to evaluate their own
climbing and take steps to improve at their sport. It is the most comprehensive how-to training guide. I strongly recommend The Self-Coached Climber.”
—Mia Axon
two-time U.S. Women's National Champion
and 4th woman in history to climb 5.14
“An amazing book, full of useful exercises to improve performance. Anyone who wants to move to the next level can benefit from reading it.”
—Russ Clune
Long time Gunks climber and climbing industry insider.
“Finally, a book and dvd that deliver the defnitive view of what it means to be physically and mentally trained for climbing. As a coach, I am always looking for information to help build my team and clients into great climbers. This is by far the most thorough and up-to-date training resource.”
—Tyson Schoene
2005 USAC Junior National Team Coach
Vertical World Climbing Team Head Coach
“The Self-Coached Climber shares the secrets of modern training concepts practiced by the very best climbers.”
—Boone Speed
first American to Red Point 5.14b
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dirtineye
Aug 1, 2005, 7:20 PM
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Sounds interesting.
I'd like to see one.
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fracture
Aug 1, 2005, 10:35 PM
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I'm lookin' forward to it, fluxus. :D
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rockprodigy
Aug 2, 2005, 3:05 AM
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Congrats on finishing it!
What's a gude?
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rockprodigy
Aug 2, 2005, 3:15 AM
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Congrats on finishing it!
What's a gude?
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raymondjeffrey
Aug 2, 2005, 3:39 AM
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When is it going to be available? I can't wait.
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tobym
Aug 2, 2005, 9:37 AM
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Doug,
saw this advertised on Amazon.co.uk,congratulations, any idea when it might become available in the uk, or do you not get informed of such things? Udo Neumann, keeps saying he is working on an english version of his Lizenz zum Klettern DVD, but he's been saying that for ages.
cheers,
Toby
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overlord
Aug 2, 2005, 11:01 AM
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sounds very interesting. whats in gonna cost??? any discounts for rc.com members??? :P
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yomomma
Aug 2, 2005, 11:10 AM
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I want one now!
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yomomma
Aug 2, 2005, 11:14 AM
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I mean, I want one NOW!
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ping
Aug 2, 2005, 12:27 PM
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In reply to: sounds very interesting. whats in gonna cost???
According to the Amazon link posted above, $19.77 if you pre-order. A very good deal in my opinion.
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screamer
Aug 2, 2005, 2:10 PM
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Nice Doug, i've been waiting for you to write a book on the topic....
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hulgan
Aug 2, 2005, 4:30 PM
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Is there any way to negotiate an advance, "review" copy by mail for those of us who won't be able to attend the show?
If not- does anyone who plans on attending the show want to help me out and earn beer money all at once?
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fluxus
Aug 2, 2005, 6:53 PM
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Thanks for the kind comments everyone.
As for availability, I just talked to the publisher and they will have it in the wearhouse on October 1 so it will be in stores about a week or so after that. In addition it will be carries in stores throughout the English speaking world. Here in the states it should be available through all the usual outlets: borders, REI, Barnes and Noble etc. The cost of the book is $29.95 but Amazon has it listed at $19 and change. I'm not sure how they can do that, they are not making any money on it at that price, that's for sure.
I should be clear since beer money appears to be at stake. I believe that the advanced copies are for looking purposes only, I don't think we are letting folks walk out of the show with them, if for no other reason then the advanced copies do not have the DVD. I will have a few copies of the DVD with me at the show but the schedule was so tight that the DVD replicator could not have the run done in time for the show.
peace.
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hulgan
Aug 2, 2005, 7:03 PM
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In reply to: I believe that the advanced copies are for looking purposes only, I don't think we are letting folks walk out of the show with them, if for no other reason then the advanced copies do not have the DVD.
Gooootttt it! I thought they'd be for sale there. My mix-up. In that case i look forward to picking it up in October.
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tyson16v
Aug 9, 2005, 4:22 AM
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i have seen this book.
trust me when i say you guys will be impressed.
nice work doug.
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justus
Aug 18, 2005, 3:13 AM
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Quick question fluxus: Does the book include any training strategies for people who want to climb hard alpine things like 5.16 with a 30000ft elevation gain on the approach or is it mostly for bouldering and single pitch climbing? I'd be interested in info for alpine/bouldery cruxes, though i realize it may not be within the scope of the book (or the author of this post).
Justus
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squish
Aug 18, 2005, 3:22 AM
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In reply to: Quick question fluxus: Does the book include any training strategies for people who want to climb hard alpine things like 5.16 with a 30000ft elevation gain on the approach or is it mostly for bouldering and single pitch climbing? I'd be interested in info for alpine/bouldery cruxes, though i realize it may not be within the scope of the book (or the author of this post).
That stuff probably only comes with experience and not just training, but pointers can't hurt. Check out Extreme Alpinism by Mark Twight if you haven't already.
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justus
Aug 18, 2005, 6:14 PM
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Yes, i've enjoyed extreme alpinism many a time but was hoping one would give insight in how to effectively prformance train for everything: the ultimate generalists workout regime.
Justus
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fluxus
Aug 18, 2005, 9:54 PM
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In reply to: Quick question fluxus: Does the book include any training strategies for people who want to climb hard alpine things like 5.16 with a 30000ft elevation gain on the approach or . . .
Dude, that's so easy I can't believe that you need a book about that. Just do what all great alpinists do: get drunk.
Just so you know the book also tells you how to know what women are really thinking about you, how to get long term 20 - 30% gains in the stock market, the secret to time travel, the truth about the murder of JFK. We also named "deep throat" but we got scooped on that one and pulled it out right before going to press.
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deadpointman
Aug 24, 2005, 8:05 AM
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Does the book have any info on complex training or other newly discovered/popularized strength training methods? Just curious.
By the way, I just pre-ordered your book five minutes ago, and am really looking forward to it. 8^)
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fluxus
Aug 26, 2005, 7:26 PM
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Thanks for the pre-order! As for your question, we do not cover those topics. The reason is that there is a great emphasis these days on what you might call "off wall" or non-climbing training for climbing. There are a few problems with this kind of training:
1) They may be popular but there is not observational information linking these methods of training to specific performance levels. When putting training activities in the book it was our top priority to be able to tell the reader what level of performance can be expected from the level of intensity at which they are training, and what training intensity they would need to achieve to be able to meet their goals. Too much information already out there is completely ambigious in this regard and our goal was to be concrete and pragmatic.
2) Most "off wall" training activities are not all that sport specific and are also not performance specific. This matters because the motor learning / cognitive aspects of climbing are so increadbly important, I don't think most climbers realize that the difference between success and failure is often measured in inches and fractions of a second so its the timing and initiation of movements that climbers need to spend a huge about of time practicing.
We want to encourage climbers to train their muscles in contexts that are a very close match to the motor demands of the performance for which they are training. Naturally, this narrows the range of activities we advocate.
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j_ung
Aug 26, 2005, 7:53 PM
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Doug,
I've got the book and DVD. They arrived just the other day. Thanks for the advance copy. I'm going to try to get you a review before they hit the shelves.
Jay
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naw
Sep 28, 2005, 6:11 PM
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Any updates on the release date? I saw J's review and it got me even more pumped, but I'm seeing some discrepancies regarding the release. I pre-ordered on Amazon where they're calling for a November release but I see earlier in the thread one of the authors was calling for the possibility of early October? I'm going to to Potrero Chico for three weeks in November and I'd love to use some of the training techniques from the book so I hope I can get my hands on one before my trip.
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fluxus
Sep 29, 2005, 2:30 AM
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The release date has been pushed back until the beginning of November.
The publisher rejected the first printing because the density of the photos was incorrect. So rather than being ready to ship October 1 it is more likely to ship between Nov. 1 - 10.
Sorry, it sucks, but its the publishers call.
I'll post here when I get a firm date.
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