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jdpeak
Jun 25, 2002, 5:16 AM
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hi guys,
i'm 17 and, although almost all of my r.c. experience has been at an indoor gym, i am often told buy experienced climbers that i'm quite good. my first and only time on real rock, i climbed a 5.10 route. anyway, i'm planning to get my first of r.c. shoes and would love some info or opinions on the subject.
first of all, do r.c. shoe sizes corralate well to sneakers? i'm a snug size 10.5 in Men's nike but i'm not sure was size the hunk of laces and duck tape i get handed at the gym is and since i'll be ordering online, i won't be able to try them on first.
second, i'd really appreciate some guidance in picking a brand and type of shoe. i can swing $100-160 for a pair and maybe stretch it to $180 if necessary. my mulah is limited, but i also don't want some rinky-dink beginner shoe either. i will be climbing mostly on indoor walls but will be on real rock occaisionally.
finally, do laceless shoes work as well as lace-ups?
thanks,
josh
p.s. any insider tips on where to buy at a good price would be awesome
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dustinap
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Jun 25, 2002, 5:58 AM
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Barrabes, and sportsextreme for good prices.
For a beginner, your feet probably aren't strong enough to use a slipper shoe, such as 5.10 V10, or Cobras.
I'd recommend whatever fits your foot! A shoe such as Mythos, old style huecos, spire or cliff. The Cliff is a harder shoe, and doesn't have great feeling, but they work great, even on hard stuff!
Good luck, 120 bucks should be enough for your first pair of shoes thru barrabes.com or sports extreme, including shipping!
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pbcowboy77
Jun 26, 2002, 2:02 AM
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If your going to buy online think about goint to REI or somewhere elese that sells climbing gear and try some on. It took about 7 to 10 pair of shoes for me to find a pair that fit right.
A couple things to think about and look for:
-Most climbers get a full size down(I normaly wear a size 12 but my climbing shoe is a 11) this gives you better feeling on the rock.
-If you do a heel lift and your heel slips out off the bottom of the shoe that is bad (you don't want your foot to move in the shoe
I'm not a climbing guru but that is what I was told when buying shoes. Oh, and I learned that if your climbing in the sun black or dark colered shoes realy suck(they get hot)
Climb safe and don't drive angry
-Zac
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miagi
Jun 26, 2002, 2:15 AM
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A shoe should fit your needs. Although dustinap said an expert shoe is not good for a beginner, it might be different in your case. If you "know" you will like climbing, then get a good shoe. Also, if your climbing at high levels already, you will need a good shoe when your pushing the grades. A suggestion would be the Pyros from Boreal. They are snug, but not insanely tight. They are very well rounded and break in easily. Most slippers were designed to be tight and have a side effect of hurting. For slippers, your toes will curl inside the shoe.
If your not quiet ready for moderate pain in your feet, go with laces. Laces are less painful since your toes are usually flat inside the shoe. Laces are a good starter shoe and help "break in" your feet for climbing.
Get the shoe that fits your climbing. If your climbing steep routes and boulder problems, get a "cambered" slipper. These are curved at the midsole, providing your big toe to act as a hook. If your climbing trad, or longer routes go with laces. If you mostly smear, get a shoe that gives a little and has a sticky rubber like C4 Stealth. Most shoes are sized .5-1.5 smaller than your sneaker size.
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jakewolf
Jun 26, 2002, 2:31 AM
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Boreals have a realxed fit, but still climb hard. You can expect to pay 50-65 dollars per pair shipped from spain to your doorstep through www.barrabes.com I have ordered many pairs from them. I would size them 1 full size down from tennis shoes and there is 1 full size diff for european sizes. For example I wear a 10 in Vans, but I buy 8 in boreal because they are uk sizing. Good gym shoes are Quantams- they are really cheap($50 shipped) and they edge great and climb overhangs and slabs like a champ + they are basically as easy to put on as a slipper. Also look into Pyros and Zens both are abot $60 with shipping.
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dyno2acrimper
Jun 26, 2002, 2:37 AM
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The first pair of shoes that I got were the 5.10 mocasyms...I love them! I went 2 sizes lower then my normal shoes size...though they were a bit uncomfortable for a while they are alright most of the time now. Just more then a few hours and i have to take them off for a few mins. the shoes are supposed to be like a second skin, but it depends on your pain tolerance really. Good luck in the hunt!
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jdpeak
Jun 26, 2002, 3:55 AM
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thanks alot for the help, i think i'm gonna play it safe and try on a few pairs before ordering.
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dustinap
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Jun 26, 2002, 4:41 AM
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Miagi gave good advice, I didn't want to tell you what shoe to get, but Boreal Pyros came to mind, even though I don't like the rubber on boreal shoes as much as vibram or stealth.
[ This Message was edited by: dustinap on 2002-06-25 21:42 ]
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hyonj
Jul 4, 2002, 8:30 PM
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Thank you for all the advice and stores. I'm a newbie, starting to climb indoor. I purchased all of my gear after reading a great many threads here, taking the advice of many people. Just as an FYI for anyone else, sportsextreme.com had great prices but barrabes was less expensive on the shoes. Most importantly, sportsextreme adds an import/customs fee while barrabes doesn't. My import fee ended up being $9, barrabes was $10 less expensive just on the shoes and no import/customs fee. I did go to a local store and try on various shoes after reading some reviews of others.
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missedyno
Jul 5, 2002, 5:39 PM
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go to a store and try on a lot of pairs. climbing mag has its gear review out now so it's a good guideline as to what shoes are good for what (level of climbing, type of climbing, etc.)
then whether you buy them there or not, you'll know more of what you want...
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beyond_gravity
Jul 5, 2002, 6:18 PM
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lots of americans miss the great Canadain shoe prices. for $5 you can have a lifetime member ship to MEC. And remember, all there prices are in Canadain $$
Cheam Them Out Here
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likethegoddess
Jul 5, 2002, 7:40 PM
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Read up on fitting shoes and read more. There's a nice FAQ on www.tradgirl.com fwiw. I have to agree with trying on *lots* of shoes, especially on your first buy. If your rock gym has a pro shop, see about trying some shoes on and climbing.
I have to agree as far as fitting your shoes to your interests. If you're a rank beginner, don't have strong feet, or are unsure of what you want to pursue, you might want to get a basic all-around beginner's shoe. If not, well, I've only been climbing a short time, but I know I'm *very* interested in bouldering. I also know I have a fairly strong foot, since I do a sort do body work that requires very strong footwork. I went for an asymetrical slip lasted shoe. I got a lace up since I don't feel my feet are *that* strong yet. And I went to a tight fit for those curling toes.
BTW, I understand that curling toes have more to do with purpose than slipper vs. laces. Curling toes up in shoes is ideal for bouldering because you can get really good strength on those tiny toe holds. Whereas a flat toed shoe you'd want for crack climbing to avoid getting your little toes crushed.
Best of luck!
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hang_man
Jul 6, 2002, 1:34 PM
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why duncha try on the model at your local store??
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voltzwgn
Jul 6, 2002, 2:05 PM
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try 'em before you buy 'em......
I've been looking around too and find that even from the same manufacturer to get a good fit in different models means different sizes. I usually support my local store, but half price is hard to walk away from. So I'll try 'em on there and buy online. Feel a little bad about it but they get lots of my other business.
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akaijen
Jul 14, 2002, 12:08 AM
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Someone mentioned using your shoes to curl your toes....
I'm a new climber, but i was a classical ballet dancer for 20 years and even sold ballet shoes for a few them. While it's not quite the same, I know a good deal about foot fitness AND sizing little, hard shoes.
I honestly believe that you should be able to wiggle your toes in your shoes. Not like knit sweaters, but they should be relatively flat-ish in your shoe when you stand up. If you are standing up and your toes are curled, you risk actually breaking them - tiny toe fractures that equal arthritis-type pain... and you think the dentist sucks.
If you want to build good, honest toe strength buy some clogs from one of those orthopedic shoe stores - big clunky, HEAVY, wooden ones. Buy them a half size too big. Now put them on as soon as you get home from work or wherever and walk around in them - not shuffle, but walk. In fact, walk your dog two times around the block in them. Your toes have to grip the shoes to keep the them on your feet, and in no time massive toe strength.
I play soccer competitively, bike, have dabbled in yoga/pilates and am getting into rock climbing now. I honestly don't think any part of any sport gear should hurt. You get plenty of pain just playing hard.
Of course I say that and I woke up the other day with really unflattering bruises between my legs caused by my harness. Ugh. What do you do for that???
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mesomorf
Jul 14, 2002, 1:05 AM
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beyond_gravity wrote:
lots of americans miss the great Canadain shoe prices. for $5 you can have a lifetime member ship to MEC. And remember, all there prices are in Canadain $$
We sure do miss it, ever since MEC ceased shipping to the US.
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topher
Jul 14, 2002, 2:04 AM
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yeah its sweet i can get zens for 108 can, i hear there like 120 in the states and thats green money!!! haha suckers!
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jt512
Jul 14, 2002, 7:15 PM
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Quote:
I'm a new climber, but i was a classical ballet dancer for 20 years and even sold ballet shoes for a few them. While it's not quite the same, I know a good deal about foot fitness AND sizing little, hard shoes.
I honestly believe that you should be able to wiggle your toes in your shoes.
For technical climbing, your shoes have to fit snugly. Imagine having to front point an edge no thicker than a quarter on vertical rock. Unless your big toe is touching the front of the shoe, your foot will slip off the hold.
For difficult climbs your toes should be curled in the shoe because they can push down harder when they are curled than when they are straight.
An ex-girlfriend of mine is a ballerina, and she would complain that tight climbing shoes would compromise her toe strength. I think that ballet builds toe/foot strength differently than climbing, and my impression from climbing with her is that ballet toe strength is not optimal for climbing.
-Jay
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akaijen
Jul 20, 2002, 5:05 PM
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I dunno if I'd say that tight shoes would compromise my toe strength. I feel silly even really discussing toe strength b/c it's such a small piece of the puzzle. I'd give a lot more leverage to arch strength and the ability to stand up straight while your toes are curled. Then there're the almighty calf muscles...
My surprise comes from the statement that your shoes should curl you toes so that you can stand on them better or that they'd help you out on little holds. That just sounds like bad advice for a newbie who might not have the rest of the puzzle pieces. Sounds like the concerns of a more advanced person.
But in the end, you still risk teeny weeny toe fractures by walking around on your toes curled up in your shoes. At least if you are actually climbing and conciously scrunching up your feet for a difficult problem, you aren't sustaining too much weight on them.
Just for fun, Jay, the next time you are up on a difficult climb balancing on your toe - instead of grunting and maybe biting your lip - smile really pretty and try to imagine yourself as the most delicate flower in the land. Imagine 10 fuete turns (french for 'whip' b/c you use the leg that isn't supporting you to flip yourself around with each turn) up on that crag - still smiling gracefully. haha! "Show Dick some respect" haha
Jen
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earsen
Jul 22, 2002, 6:56 AM
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Seems like some people have gotten off track here. This whole forum was to guidance to a new climber looking for shoes.
One: Definately try on a lot of shoes and write down the metric sizes if you're ultimately going to purchase them over the internet.
Two: Don't spend top dollar on your first shoe. I'm a firm believer in getting an all around good shoe that is relatively comfortable for the first pair. Because, (a) it will help you to engage a variety of routes, rather than only concentrating on those that your cambered toes excel on, and (b)you'll wear the first pair out very quickly, probably in a year or less. Beginners tend to drag rather than place the feet a lot. My company sells EB shoes at very competitive prices. Check of the new EB CANNIBAL at our sight www.climbonrock.com I think they are the perfect blend of price and performance for beginning and advanced climbers alike.
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