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cosmin
Oct 3, 2004, 3:12 PM
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Registered: Oct 3, 2004
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Hello,
I plan to move to China for a while and I was hoping to get some advice about climbing opportunities there. Excluding the Tian Shan and the Himalayas (which are obvious mountaineering targets) I would be interested if any of you knows:
1. Of particular crags and info on them, especially in E (and SE). I shall be living in the province of HuBei, more precisely in the city of XianNing, and I am most interested if there are any crags developed there (the area is mountainous but I have no clue about climbers putting up routes there) or nearby.
2. How hard/easy is to find climbing gear in China and if it is more/less expensive than in Europe. (I wonder how much/what to take with me.)
3. Any other information that might help.
Looking forward to hearing from you.
Thanks in advance,
Can email me directly as well at: cosmin.andron#gmx.net (please replace the # sign with @)
With every best wish, yours
Cosmin
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meataxe
Oct 3, 2004, 5:24 PM
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Registered: Oct 23, 2002
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I have not climbed in China, but I notice some nice looking stuff in Gueiling. Look in the routes DB. I'm headed to china in a few weeks, but my schedule will not allow me to climb.
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maxdacat
Oct 7, 2004, 1:06 PM
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Registered: Sep 10, 2004
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There's a picture of some cliffs in Hunan in the latest Lonely Planet China book which look awesome....going to Shanghai next week but no climbing.
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climbnhi
Oct 8, 2004, 8:29 AM
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Registered: Jul 16, 2003
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I just posted some info on an area in HeNan. There is a Metolius distributer in China, I can put you in touch with him if you want. Other than that, sport gear is easy to come by, trad gear is not.
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far_east_climber
Oct 8, 2004, 1:49 PM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2003
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Regarding the climbing in Yangshuo/Guilin - there is a climbing guidebook that has been produced on the area just a few months ago. I could sort you out with a copy if you would like as they sell a couple in a shop around here. As for SE China, Hong Kong is one region and is well worth a visit if you get the chance.
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mrtristan
Oct 8, 2004, 3:06 PM
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Registered: Jun 21, 2002
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i lived in beijing for two and a half years. climbing gear in china will be more expensive than europe or the united states. the exception will be climbing shoes. you can get a pair of mad rocks or 5.10s for $50ish US. but that is assuming that you can find a climbnig store. there are several in beijing. i dont know how many there will be in hubei. i would take all climbing gear with you. assuming you can find some gear in a store, it will be very expensive.
as for climbing in hubei... i have no idea. i did a quick google search of "cliffs hubei" and found this: http://www.cq66.com/ENGLISH/newpage8.htm at a place called Wudang. Theres one picture with cliffs in it, though it doesnt look to be the greatest. oh well. good luck and let us know if you find anything!
-tristan
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cosmin
Oct 8, 2004, 5:30 PM
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Registered: Oct 3, 2004
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Thank you ALL very much for the info - it's definitely something to go from.
With every best wish, yours
Cosmin
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guangzhou
Oct 19, 2004, 6:06 AM
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
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I live in Guangzhou, not sure where you are in referecne to me, but send me an email. I have been putting routes up in Macau and Yin De.
Guangzhou itself has few routes too. If you ever get here, you have a pplace to stay.
emmanuellacoste@yahoo.com
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hardrock_chik
Oct 19, 2004, 6:29 AM
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Registered: Aug 10, 2004
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I will be going to China in 3 weeks and will be visiting Nanjing, Shanghai and Beijing. I am also unsure about climbing in China. Apparently there's not much but I will find out for myself when I go. (sorry im posting questions not answers :roll: ) but are the Purple Mountains rockfaces or not really?
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hardrock_chik
Oct 19, 2004, 6:33 AM
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Registered: Aug 10, 2004
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I will be going to China in 3 weeks and will be visiting Nanjing, Shanghai and Beijing. I am also unsure about climbing in China. Apparently there's not much but I will find out for myself when I go. (sorry im posting questions not answers :roll: ) but are the Purple Mountains rockfaces or not really?
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ross1500m
Aug 8, 2005, 7:21 PM
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Registered: Aug 8, 2005
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Good info on these posts. I'll be in Hubei (Huangshi city) in a few weeks, and I'm trying to find out more about local spots. Since I'll be alone a bunch, I'm specifically looking bouldering stuff, but PLEASE shout if anything else comes up. (With ultimate goal of sponsored top-rope / aid up Jade Dragon Snow Mountian, pretty much down for anything.)
E-mail rosstucker@alum.dartmouth.org with anything.
Wooord!
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cosmin
Aug 8, 2005, 8:28 PM
Post #13 of 14
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Registered: Oct 3, 2004
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OK, so you're pretty much in the same situation I was a year ago when i made the original posting - totally lost in an area of no info and no network about climbing.... Anyone can tell you about Beijing or the 'superstar' Yangshuo, but mind you, they are both at 12hs by train from where you live :o) Older and wiser now I can provide some beta that would make you climbing life less miserable than was mine in my first few months in Hubei.
From where you will be living there is a 1:30-2:00 h by bus to Wuhan (the main city in Hubei prov.) and 1:30-2:00 h by bus to Xianning, a mudhole south of Wuhan but a gateway to one of the new climbing areas.
You have the following options:
[1] Indoor climbing: go to Wuhan, get off in WuChang side of town and get a bus/taxi to Lumo Lu (Lumo street) where at no. 388 (on the left as you come) is the 'China University of Geosciences '. They have a big nice wall. The people in charge are Cao Rong Wu (Chinese male champion) and Huang Li Ping (female Chinese champion) two very nice people, more than helpful and friendly. They are also a part of a bigger uni club with loads of sport climbers. I would strongly suggest you hook up with them!!
[2] Outdoors: not many options nearby but working on it. (a.) One option is in Wuhan (Wuchang), on the way to Xianning, on a place called: Bai Yun Dong where Cao Rong Wu bolted a handful of routes on some ... solidified mud (as it looks to me). On the easy side, single pitch about 15m or so. (b.) The second option is much better and is a place I unfortunately discovered towards the end of my term there. It's a little village near a lake about 20minutes on a motorbike from Xianning towards Chongyang (south-ward). The name of the place is Ming Shuei Quan and I put up two routes (5.10+ and 5.11+)there with Cao Rong Wu a month and a half ago and since my departure he must have put ta least a 5.12 route. The potential is huge for hard (5.12+) multipitch sport routes just waiting for people to put them up or climb them. Just to have an idea - 90m of continuous sick overhanging limestone above a 20m long/20m wide roof.... Plus vertical bits around it for fun...
(c) If willing to travel at about 5 hours in Jiangxi prov. In a place called La Zu Feng there is huge potential for bouldering, and multipicth routes (mostly slab) on granite. A huge area with only two routes I know of: a singlepitch around 5.8 put up by a Nanjing team and a singlepitch put up by Cao and myself around 5.10+, both trad despite an unnecessary permanent peg placed by the Nanjing team :o(
(d) I heard of a crag in/near Huangshi but not great and I never been there. Cao Rong Wu can tell you more since it is heim ho bolted something there.
[3] For anything else further from Huangshi shoot an email either to myself or to Eman (user 'guangzhou' on this list: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...php?UserID=guangzhou )
I shall be moving from 23 August to Guangzhou myself but I hope I'll be going back every now and again. There are many rock sites in China - some very few developed and some crying desperately to be developed.
[4] For trekking you can contact the 'China Dragon Club' (Zhong Guo Long Ye Wai Shen Cun Ju Le Bu) Agriculture Hall, Wulu road, Wuhan city (Wuchang), Hubei prov. Tel: 027 87884655 ; 027 87884655 www.zglclub.com where a bunch of merry people will make you very welcome and worth joining for trips around the hills in China.
[5] Shops: there is one in Huangshi of which I know. Doesn’t sell much gear but mainly clothes and trekking stuff. I can get the address if you want. Wuhan has several but I would recommend two in Wuchang on Wulu road -near to and on the opposite side of the MacDonalds and near the temple with the fortune-tellers- and one inHankou in the big shopping mall SoGo on the ....errrr 5th floor. The gear you'll find is mainly Lanex ropes, some BD and Lucky quickdraws, some slings and decorative biners. Plus tents, rucksacks, cloting etc
If you want to buy gear I suggest either Beijing, Guangzhou, Hong Kong or Yangshuo.
As I said before - do shoot an email either to myself or Eman or anyone on the China page (http://www.rockclimbing.com/...=Rating&CountryID=37 ) or HK page (http://www.rockclimbing.com/...Rating&CountryID=115) and keep in touch.
For (mainly) alpine stuff contact either myself or user 'Benjack' on this list (http://www.rockclimbing.com/...t.php?UserID=benjack) or log in onto Summitpost (http://www.summitpost.org/show/mlist.pl?f_id=17)
Best of luck with it!
Cosmin
P.S. Cao Rong Wu and Huang Li Ping speak some English
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ross1500m
Aug 10, 2005, 1:25 PM
Post #14 of 14
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Registered: Aug 8, 2005
Posts: 10
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Wow -- That's a ton of good info! I'm glad you're so generous.
As a semi-retired competitive runner, and a fully lost non-Chinese speaker, I know I'll have some inadvertant adventures in training and climbing. Those trips sound like a great place to start...
Thanks!
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