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sinshan
Aug 18, 2005, 1:52 AM
Post #1 of 5
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Registered: Feb 21, 2004
Posts: 93
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Hey folks,
I'm going to be in Yos soon and was hoping to take on a long trad climb that is a good, yet friendly, introduction to Yosemite granite. I've climbed a handful of long or otherwise committing routes (dreams of wild turkeys in red rocks, liberty bell and static rock in the north cascades, etc) but always as a follower. I've led trad but never been the most "experienced" climber on a climb more then 3 pitches long. Keeping this in mind, I wanted to hear from folks who've climbed North Buttress on Tenaya Peak about the following -
- is the routefinding pretty straightforward, or is it easy to get off track and end up in scary land?
- How long did it actually take you, and how many in your party?
- Is the climbing actually 5.5 and easier, or is it sandbagged?
- Was the descent a nightmare?
Those are the main pieces of info I need to figure out whether I want to try the route while I'm in Yosemite. We'll be there this saturday - if you've done the climb and want to make our group 4 instead of three, I'd be up for talking about it.
Thanks for helpful info -
t.
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sinshan
Aug 18, 2005, 3:35 AM
Post #3 of 5
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Registered: Feb 21, 2004
Posts: 93
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Thanks for the response boltdude - I'd checked out Supertopo already. Just wasn't sure about how all the folks made it sound so easy. You know, like if it sounds too good to be true, it usually is, etc. etc.
If it's as easy as all that, then no problem, sounds like a fun day.
still looking for opinions. . .
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boltdude
Aug 18, 2005, 3:55 AM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2002
Posts: 685
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It is pretty darn easy for anyone with any slab experience, most of the route goes at 4th class-5.4 or so. While the Supertopo details one possible route to the top, there are many many options.
So if your party is experienced on slabs, no worries. If you have very limited (or no) experience on slabs, it could be a different story.
Also, considering the current thunderstorm cycle, do NOT get on the route if you see puffy clouds - or even a hint of puffy clouds - before 10am.
And if you'll be there for a day or two ahead, check to see if the peak gets hit by a big thunderstorm the day before. If so, there's a good chance that water will be seeping out of much of the route the next day.
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sinshan
Aug 18, 2005, 4:24 AM
Post #5 of 5
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Registered: Feb 21, 2004
Posts: 93
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Thanks Boltdude for the info! I'll definitely be wary of storms. I've got granite slab experience so that's all good (gotta luv slab. . .)
I'm definitely wary of storms. Forecast is for possible thunderstorms Saturday after 2pm. We'll head out early and see what it looks like, but getting caught there is definitely my least favorite idea.
Thanks for the info!!
t.
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