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abelle79
Aug 19, 2005, 5:00 PM
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Hi :?:
I am going to be in Malaysia for 2 weeks in december and january. Could anyone give me some suggestions on areas that I could go that's top-rope friendly? I understand that most of the routes are sport climbing routes.
I have also purchased 'climb malaysia' guide book. Is it any good? Are there any bouldering areas?
I will be in the Penang area, but am willing to travel if arrangements can be made.
Thanks ahead of time.
:D
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fang
Aug 21, 2005, 2:34 PM
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Damai wall in batu caves is probably the most beginner friendly, but there aren't any real 'top rope' routes, where you can walk to the top of a wall and set up an anchor. Someone has to lead them (usually).
As for penang, I haven't climbed there, but the guidebook has some info on a quarry in penang.
Your best bet would probably be to practice some leading in the gym and buy a few quickdraws in preperation.
good luck!
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blocx
Aug 22, 2005, 3:31 AM
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hi abelle
As fang pointed out, there are few climbing sites that have an accessible ridgeline in order to set up a toprope. So in most cases someone has to lead the climb. Most routes in Malaysia are sport routes so if you have some leading expereince I'm sure you'll find something in your grade range. Batu Caves, near KL is one of the most popular sites, with a number of easily accessible crags. Damai is perhaps the most popular due to the fact it has the convenience of a car park right at its foot and a lot of easier (5c or less) grades. Also the routes tend to be within the range of a 50m rope. Nyamuk is another popular site, though it has a reputation for being "harder" it too has some 5c routes, though you'd be wise to bring a 60m rope as many of the routes are beyond 25m.
The best bouldering can be found 1hr:40min south of KL at a location called Tampin. Due to it location it doesnt get frequented often but its well worth arranging a trip as the boulders a superb.
Penang is pretty bare as far as natural crags go, though there are some yet undeveloped areas, the only climbing to be had is at an abandoned quarry or perhaps some boulders on the northern beaches, really not much to be had there. But head further north on the mainland and you can check out Gunung Keriang in Alor Setar or Gua Kelam near the Thai border.
Basically everything I've written you can find out in your Climb Malaysia Guide, it is pretty much up-to-date on the routes and offers good advice on transportation and accommodiation.
Keep in mind your biggest complication will be finding someone to climb with as Fang pointed out, sites like Damai offer the greatest chance to meet the local climbers and make contacts.
By the time you arrive in Malaysia, KL will also have opened Asia's Largest Indoor climbing gym - Camp5 see http://www.camp-5.com though I'm sure you'd prefer to expore outdoors the gym will offer a great opportunity to mingle with the local climbs and make those all important weekend arrangements.
Hope you get to enjoy some of the great climbing Malaysia has on offer.
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abelle79
Aug 26, 2005, 3:55 PM
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Hey Fang and Blocx,
Thanks much for the advice. :lol: I climb 5c fairly easily, and working on 6as. So, hopefully there are plenty of options out there. My concern is mostly how 'well' the bolts are maintained. I have done a little lead climbing in the comfort and controlled environ of a gym, which isn't bad, but I installed most of the bolts myself, so I have some/much confidence in them. Do you know how/how well these bolts are maintained? Is it the standard 10-feet per bolt, or 3meters per bolt?
In these areas, are there any areas where I can tie myself down while belaying? I climb with someone 45% heavier.
Thanks again for all the details. I like to come prepared, especially when traveling half way across the world! :P
:D
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blocx
Aug 26, 2005, 5:38 PM
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Hi Abelle
I hear your concern, I can only vouch personally for the routes set at Nyamuk Crag as they we bolted by BLOCX. Other sites you'll have to use you own judgement. If its worth anything I havent heard of any bolted popping round these parts, krabi-thailand excluded.
The distance between the bolts can vary but seldom more then 3 meters apart. Since your comfortable on 5c I would suggest Damai Wall (at least as a introduction, the heat can take some adjusting). Nyamuk is definately worth a visit, it is often commented that the Nyamuk's grades are harder so keep that in mind when chosing a climb.
Ultimately theres plenty here to play on, so Im sure you find yourself occupied.
Lastly - ground anchors are readily available in Nyamuk, Damai is another story.
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asiashadowplay
Oct 3, 2005, 4:19 AM
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hi i heard there is a new project around 8b at nyamuk...has it been sent ???
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blocx
Oct 3, 2005, 7:06 AM
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Hi asiashadowplay.
Firstly - your question bares NO relation to the orginal topic of this forum thread; I can picture Abelle79, the original thread author and self declared 5c climber, scratching here head over your reply. In future, unless the topic of your post is relevant to the thread, please post as a NEW thread, this also make it easier for other rc users to follow the topics.
Secondly - Patrick is currently in the process of bolting a new project and I'm sure he will reveal all details soon enough. So I won't give the game away except to quote one of his comments - "it's not easy".
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asiashadowplay
Oct 4, 2005, 1:53 AM
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my sincere apologies... lets hope it gets a FA soon then...
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asiashadowplay
Oct 4, 2005, 1:53 AM
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my sincere apologies... lets hope it gets a FA soon then...
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blocx
Oct 10, 2005, 5:00 AM
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hey asianshadowplay
I agree with jeremy to say it would be better to open a new forum for your particular question. however, I can answer the following:
you might refer to a project that I bolted nearly two years ago, but due to my illness that kicked in shortly after bolting the route, I never had the chance to give it a real try. about 6 months ago i started climbing again, and it should be said that i started back on 6a (and was happy that I managed to climb at all!)
Of course this particular project was way to hard for me, so I let Simon Karlin have a go. He worked on it for the time he was here, and he was very close to sending it. 8b might be a good guess, however, it might be graded harder, due to the fact that it is very technical, and the crux is really tough, definitely not a greatful onsight route! To give you an example, there are some 9a's around that do not have such hard moves compared to the two crux moves of the project...
So if you come to Nyamuk, give it a go, this is an open project for everybody who feels to try it.
For that I have to wait for while till I will be stronger to tackle it. In the meantime I bolted a new project to the right of pledge. It follows through the dihedral and over the arete just right of the steep section of pledge. Cool climbing and awkward moves that give me musle aches in most unusual muscle groups. Its one of these routes that can shake you off anywhere at any time. Grading this one seems to be difficult, however, I recently climbed pledge for old times sake, and it seemed to be easy in comparison...
This new project cannot be climbed because i have not yet glued the bolts
:wink:
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