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drector
Sep 15, 2005, 6:12 PM
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I'm heading to Y.V. this weekend. I can lead 5.9 trad and I'm looking for route recommendations. I've climbed Nutcracker and a few other classics as well as a bunch of shorter routes there. I'm interested in something new and just can't decide based on a guide book. I'm also too lazy to serch forums for recommendations. Please just spit out some route names you think would be good to try. The temperatures should be around 80 D.F. and I'm psyched to be going.
Thanks for the help.
Dave
PS: Someone somewhere mentioned doing Nutcracker with only nuts. There's a thought!
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caughtinside
Sep 15, 2005, 6:20 PM
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Do either Munginella (5.6) or Committment (5.9) to Selagenella (5.8). Fun climbs, and it tops out right next to the falls trail, so a nice walk off.
Or the other classics.
East butt of middle,
central pillar of frenzy
Or the popular, fun and easy jaunt up the royal arches.
Or, you could do some cragging at Church bowl.
Have fun!
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phaedrus
Sep 15, 2005, 7:02 PM
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phaedrus moved this thread from General to Regional Discussions.
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thedus
Sep 16, 2005, 8:00 PM
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How about some semi-obscurities? You could do something like one of the five open books to Observation Point (5.9) to RF (5.8). Or you could hike the Falls Trail to Via Aqua (5.7). On the south side, there's Overhang Bypass (5.6) on Lower Cathedral Rock. Just some suggestions.
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edge
Sep 16, 2005, 8:04 PM
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Central Pillar of Frenzy.
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jerrygarcia
Sep 16, 2005, 8:07 PM
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The Grack- Glacier point apron
Goodrich Pinnacle - Glacier point apron
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caughtinside
Sep 16, 2005, 8:09 PM
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Hey neuroshock,
Did you build your anchor on that 5" ledge with the chopped bolts, or up higher at the base of the mantel headwall?
I belayed from the ledge and was not stoked on than flaring crack.
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neuroshock
Sep 16, 2005, 8:18 PM
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caughtinside,
built the anchor on the ledge. didn't notice any chopped bolts, though. maybe it's because i didn't know to look.
i wasn't happy with that flaring crack either. had a medium WC stopper up high and two opposing hexes (bottom one for upward pull was decent...top one was marginal) lower. put them on the cordlette, belayed tight directly off of the anchor, sat on the ledge, and braced my feet.
i was pretty confident that my second wouldn't fall, but still....
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caughtinside
Sep 16, 2005, 8:25 PM
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:lol: I know just how you feel. I got there with not much gear left. I had to pound a #3 camalot into the crack with the butt of my hand, and got in a few other nuts. Can't say I was stoked.
The bolts were about chest level, if you're standing on the ledge. they were a bit rusted though, and blended with the rock.
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