|
tcsatl
Nov 3, 2005, 4:36 PM
Post #1 of 11
(2170 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 15, 2005
Posts: 20
|
I have a friend that has done quite a bit of big wall climbing and recently returned from yosemite to show me his pro-traxion had started scraping the side of one of the plates.
His concern was that even though he may have hauled on the rope off to the side and not straight down, the axle should not have bent.
We were told by petzl that it was user error and not a fault in equipment.
We thought that it was kind of lame given the nature of the game and that equipment should be tougher than that.
He only used it to haul their heavy pack.
Anyone else have this problem?
Thoughts?
Also, anyone know if the old type of haulers like this one
http://www.barrabes.com/barrabes/product.asp?dept_id=71&pf_id=3277&opt=
are available in the us for a similar cost.
i have found some, but they are $110-$215 retail.
|
|
|
|
|
ricardol
Nov 3, 2005, 6:59 PM
Post #2 of 11
(2170 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 11, 2002
Posts: 1050
|
i had a pro-traxion that started to become pretty hard to open/close . due to one of the plates bending ..
happened after 2 walls ..
.. i took it back to REI and they gave me a new one.
|
|
|
|
|
epic_ed
Nov 3, 2005, 10:38 PM
Post #3 of 11
(2170 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724
|
The ProTraxion is definitely a step better than the Wall Hauler, like the design you referenced in the link. Pulley strength and cam strength is better in the Protraxion.
That said, most who have read my posts on this subject know I'm not a fan of the Protraxion for heavy loads (100lbs+). I have found it engages the cam unreliably and has too small of a pulley to be efficient for large loads.
For stuff under 100lbs, it has been fine. I haven't had the plates warp and the rope hasn't slipped due to the cam failing to engage when I've used it for lighter duty.
Ed
|
|
|
|
|
mingleefu
Nov 3, 2005, 11:30 PM
Post #4 of 11
(2170 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 24, 2003
Posts: 466
|
In reply to: That said, most who have read my posts on this subject know I'm not a fan of the Protraxion for heavy loads (100lbs+). I have found it engages the cam unreliably and has too small of a pulley to be efficient for large loads
Then what do you prefer for loads >100 lbs?
|
|
|
|
|
areuinclimber
Nov 3, 2005, 11:45 PM
Post #5 of 11
(2170 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 29, 2004
Posts: 436
|
i heard the kong block n' roll is supposed to be bitchin'. anyone use or hear anything about these?
|
|
|
|
|
brutusofwyde
Nov 4, 2005, 12:52 AM
Post #6 of 11
(2170 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473
|
I've used my ProTraxion on four walls so far, and am very happy with it. No warping, deforming or scraping. Loads to 110 lbs.
I own three other hauling devices (including one wall hauler which is so deformed it is unusable) and they all sit on the shelf in favor of the ProTraxion.
Obviously, opinions differ.
|
|
|
|
|
highcamp
Nov 4, 2005, 1:08 AM
Post #7 of 11
(2170 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 9, 2002
Posts: 29
|
i've also used the pro-traxion for >100 lb loads and had no complaints (other than wishing the pulley was of larger diameter). the cam has never failed to engage for me and i definitely feel the build is of far superior quality compared to the old standard (wall hauler).
still, it's interesting to see others having problems with the pro-traxion... i'll definitely be inspecting that thing more often when on the wall.
|
|
|
|
|
stymingersfink
Nov 4, 2005, 2:11 AM
Post #8 of 11
(2170 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
|
User error is a bitch, isn't it?
I'll concur with the no-problems experience. 2 E.C. routes w loads in excess of 180 lbs, and no problems (YET) if you don't count getting the friggin loads off the ground. A few scratches on the side plates, but then my biners no longer look new either.
Now granted, that's only 32P's, but every load gets lighter the closer you get to toppin out.
|
|
|
|
|
epic_ed
Nov 4, 2005, 3:05 AM
Post #9 of 11
(2170 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724
|
In reply to: In reply to: That said, most who have read my posts on this subject know I'm not a fan of the Protraxion for heavy loads (100lbs+). I have found it engages the cam unreliably and has too small of a pulley to be efficient for large loads Then what do you prefer for loads >100 lbs?
Kong Block Roll -- but it's impossible to find in the US. Check that Barrabes link and you'll find them on their site.
Hell, many people get by the old fashioned way -- get a really huge and efficient pulley and clip an ascender to it on the downward side to get the compound pulley affect. For heavy loads, I'm sure it's easier than a Protraxion.
Ed
|
|
|
|
|
holdplease2
Nov 4, 2005, 5:33 AM
Post #10 of 11
(2170 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 18, 2002
Posts: 1733
|
I have used a Protraxion for loads up to 275 pounds on two walls and multiple loads between 100 and 150 pounds on 10 or so walls with no problems, other than occasionally not catching the cam when I have torqued the rope as it exits the device.
One time, as part of a party of 3, we used a Wall Hauler for a (probably) 300 pound load, this was a mistake. The piece of metal that wrapped around the rope and held the force of the cam would flex unnervingly...this made sense, as it is only rate to 2 KN. Oops. (Why were we using it? Because one guy saw a protraxion basically torque open...when they were using a live person as a counterweight on a huge load. Scared him good. He has pics, I never saw them)
However, my whole hauling world changed when I simplified things.
With a 2,3, or even 4 inch pully (my choice), a petzl basic ascender on some webbing, and a biner to attach the two together, all of the weird cross-loading, cam-not-grabbing, metal-deforming problems are gone...and I can mix and match the size of the pully I want to use to the size of the load that I have to haul.
Anyway, unless you love your system, you don't have to limit yourself to what you find in the glossy pages of the french catalogs or the website in spain (for the kong block roll).
I love my new system, its worked great on 3 walls with loads up to 275 pounds, and I won't be using my protraxion again anytime soon. And if you are solo and small, or have a small partner, you would be surprised at how much difference a 3 or 4 inch pully makes. (Kong Block Roll has large pully, too) Don't let the size scare you, its worth its weight in gold if your haul is a struggle. (I weigh about 125, so heavy loads are a bitch)
Regarding the wear you are seeing on your petzl device, it may be user error. If you attach it with a single biner onto a bolt, it is forced to scrape against the wall when you haul. If you hang it from the powerpoint, or hang it from a sling from a solid bolt so that it can move away from the rock and move somewhat freely, rather than torque against it and grind, you will probably not have this wear problem. (If I am understanding your problem correctly, that is)
Additionally, allowing some "freedom of movement" in the system by using a lose powerpoint or a sling from a bolt will keep the device from being placed under a heavy torque and bending as a result.
Hope this helps,
-Kate.
|
|
|
|
|
climbingcowboy
Nov 5, 2005, 3:14 AM
Post #11 of 11
(2170 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2002
Posts: 1201
|
I'm using the same as Kate :roll: , and really like it I cant remeber if it was Flamer or Copperhead that use it and turned me on to the idea.
|
|
|
|
|
|
