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squierbypetzl
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Nov 6, 2005, 6:25 AM
Post #26 of 48
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In reply to: In reply to: It´s comun knowledge that Sharma´s 6" tall, and he can climb HARD! He sent a V12 a couple years ago!! How tall is Dave Graham? :lol: V12?! the guy has flashed V12s and a soft V13. He has done a few V15s and handfuls of V14s. Dave Graham is about 5' 10".
Hook, line, sinker....
:D
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jemco
Nov 7, 2005, 6:05 AM
Post #27 of 48
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I am a shorty (5'5) and I think all the whining in the world isn't going to make me taller, the problems easier or the climbers I climb with shorter. So, I take the shut up and climb approach to height. On the gym front, I do find it interesting that at the gyms I have been to, difficulty is often ONLY a function of distance between moves. I think that is just WEAK route setting. I don't mind hand holds that are far apart, but the route setters (and yes, I am one too) need to add enough feet to allow me and my short friends to lock off high and reach the next holds. Climbing outside allows short people to find small holds for hands and feet that mitigate the reachyness, and gyms should try that as well.
jemco
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willemeulen
Nov 7, 2005, 8:28 AM
Post #28 of 48
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Hey I'm not complaining that I'm tall, but I must admit a lot of people piss me of. They can't stop talking about my reach ape index. I'm nearly 7 ft tall. It especially pisses my of when the start shouting I'm of route, FUCK YOU! Yes it does give me some advantage's but I think it's mainly on the lower grades, as soon the grades go up it gives enough disadvantages. I hate roofs, espacialy when the upper body goes over easy, and than you have to pull the feet up and put 'm in front of your nose. Being tall is nice for reach but is and disadvantage with powermoves, engineers will know what I'm talking about. The small people can keep ther centre of gravity nice and close to the wall, I can forget it. My but has to come out when passing a roof or climbing an open book. Otherwise I would say stop complaining just climb and have fun. I'm not complaining that small people can do some climbs easier than me, complaining is not going to change anyway.
Ps, undestand the small guys very well they have to dyno in the gym, for me it's the opposite. Unfortunalte being taller or smaller than average can be quite shit, espacially indoors. When I put up my own climb which I could cream up it got changed within a couple of weeks. Small guys where horrified by the route.
Cheer
Willem
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jimdavis
Nov 7, 2005, 8:54 AM
Post #29 of 48
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In reply to: I am a shorty (5'5) and I think all the whining in the world isn't going to make me taller, the problems easier or the climbers I climb with shorter. So, I take the shut up and climb approach to height. On the gym front, I do find it interesting that at the gyms I have been to, difficulty is often ONLY a function of distance between moves. I think that is just WEAK route setting. I don't mind hand holds that are far apart, but the route setters (and yes, I am one too) need to add enough feet to allow me and my short friends to lock off high and reach the next holds. Climbing outside allows short people to find small holds for hands and feet that mitigate the reachyness, and gyms should try that as well. jemco
whenever i set routes, i make sure i can touch the next handhold with my elbow, if i can't i add more feet, or bring the hold in.
just one trick to know,
Jim
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kubi
Nov 7, 2005, 1:24 PM
Post #30 of 48
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Another reason to bitch about tallies:
I was climbing some sport route at the New this weekend, and all the bolts were just a few inches out of my reach when I was at the obvious clipping stances. Fricken' tall bolters :-)
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mccabeman
Nov 7, 2005, 2:09 PM
Post #31 of 48
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- John Gill (6'2)
- Layton Kor (6'5)
Climbing has endless opportunities to use the body that God gave you. Bouldering, alpine climbing, trad, sport, high altitude mountaineering, aid climbing, remote walls, ice. Pick the area that best fits your body type and push the limits. Without a doubt people that are short, lean and strong have an advantage in bouldering. Want to make a name for yourself? Go remote. If you can climb 5.10, ice climb grade 4 and do A3 there are thousands of big walls awaiting first ascent in Alaska and Canada. Heck, if you look closely there are some real gems in the lower 48. But, I'm saving those for my Son.
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clausti
Nov 7, 2005, 3:44 PM
Post #32 of 48
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In reply to: Another reason to b---- about tallies: I was climbing some sport route at the New this weekend, and all the bolts were just a few inches out of my reach when I was at the obvious clipping stances. Fricken' tall bolters :-)
yeah. sometimes hanging the draws can get spicy. trick one: climb another move or two and do the awkward clip, then down climb back to that ovbious stance and shake out a second. trick two [ballsy]: climb past the bolt to clip it at your waiste. this won't result in any more slack that clipping it at extrention, in fact, it will often result in *less* slack if you are worried about the fall. and its easier and faster to clip something waist-level than at extention.
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lilfoxiq
Nov 7, 2005, 3:55 PM
Post #33 of 48
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i'm short (somewhere between five three and five four) and I never complain about being short! It makes me work smarter and strategize for my moves. And sometimes I have to jump in a mini dyno sort of way that if I was taller I could have just hung on.
So if you are tall, and short friends are saying you are cheating, just point out that being short doesn't make the route harder if you put some thought into what you are doing and if you are brave enough to do the mini dynos required! In some ways, being short is more fun (but you tall people usually get to scale it faster and I think that would be totally fun to do!)
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thorne
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Nov 7, 2005, 7:07 PM
Post #34 of 48
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Only when I place gear as high as possible.
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lofstromc
Nov 7, 2005, 7:49 PM
Post #35 of 48
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In reply to: It goes both ways. Speaking as a short person myself (barely over 5ft..yes, insert your own short joke here), us shorties have the advantage of being able to scrunch, do the hand-foot matches, high steps, sit starts etc. Taller people get the reach. Grass is always greener...
How can high steps be easier for short people? No comprendo.
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robdotcalm
Nov 7, 2005, 9:37 PM
Post #36 of 48
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I’m not a very good climber. I’ve always thought it’s my fault for not training harder. Now after reading this thread, I realize there’s nothing I can do about it. My problem is I’m average size—5.’9”, 145 lb. I’m too tall for sit-up starts and too short for reachy problems. Not tall enough to get my hands up over a roof, but when I do my legs are too long to follow. Too tall for good balance on a slab, and too short to clip the next bolt.
And the ignominy of being an “average” person. Nobody notices or remembers you like a short or tall person. I mean they say, “You probably don’t remember him. He’s sort of average.” Now with an extreme person, they’ll say, “Sure, you must remember who he is. He’s really short (tall).”
Dejectedly,
Rob.calm
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crazyfingers
Nov 7, 2005, 9:58 PM
Post #37 of 48
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In reply to: In reply to: It goes both ways. Speaking as a short person myself (barely over 5ft..yes, insert your own short joke here), us shorties have the advantage of being able to scrunch, do the hand-foot matches, high steps, sit starts etc. Taller people get the reach. Grass is always greener... How can high steps be easier for short people? No comprendo.
I look at in terms of center of gravity and proximity to the rock, tall inseem 36", short inseem 30", tall = 6" more leg to lift/position/balance above small greasy hold, but I ain't no injuneer... crap yes I am, apparently no good at that either... stupid short climber vs tall climber thread. Back to your regularly scheduled program.
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theman
Nov 7, 2005, 10:05 PM
Post #38 of 48
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lynn hill
beth roden
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g-funk
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Nov 7, 2005, 10:07 PM
Post #39 of 48
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In reply to: - John Gill (6'2) - Layton Kor (6'5)
It goes both ways, short people and tall. I heard a story about this one short chick named Lynn Hill. She was a decent climber despite her size. . . I mean decent for a girl. :wink:
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nivlac
Nov 7, 2005, 10:22 PM
Post #40 of 48
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In reply to: I’m not a very good climber. I’ve always thought it’s my fault for not training harder. Now after reading this thread, I realize there’s nothing I can do about it. My problem is I’m average size—5.’9”, 145 lb. I’m too tall for sit-up starts and too short for reachy problems. Not tall enough to get my hands up over a roof, but when I do my legs are too long to follow. Too tall for good balance on a slab, and too short to clip the next bolt. And the ignominy of being an “average” person. Nobody notices or remembers you like a short or tall person. I mean they say, “You probably don’t remember him. He’s sort of average.” Now with an extreme person, they’ll say, “Sure, you must remember who he is. He’s really short (tall).” Dejectedly, Rob.calm
That's the most pathetic thing I've ever heard. I hope you're being sarcastic. Rob, cheer up. I'm 5' 9" and 185lbs. I'm not too tall for situp starts nor am I too short for reachy problems. When I see my 6' 2" friends reach for something I have to stretch for, I work at it and get past it my own way. I might swear under my breath a little, but I figure it out. Height dependent excuses are just that: excuses.
N
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pumpkins
Nov 8, 2005, 1:13 AM
Post #41 of 48
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hey i get it all the time, ur too tall all u do is REACH, simplly put though ,just grab ur package and smile, whom gives a fu*k not me u baby dicks :lol:
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tenesmus
Nov 8, 2005, 1:31 AM
Post #42 of 48
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6'4 + 4 190#
sukit
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grimpiperx
Nov 8, 2005, 1:45 AM
Post #43 of 48
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In reply to: lynn hill beth roden
They don't boulder that hard. One thing I noticed is that someone earlier said that the whole giving examples of tall people does not work because you can easily give examples of short people who boulder hard. I thought about this but I could not think of any short people who boulder nearly as hard as Sharma, Loskot, Stefanek, Nicole, Zangerl, Graham, Hukkataival, and I'm not sure but aren't Smith and Moon of decent height? The hardest climbing short climber I can think of is Ivan Green, who climbs what V11?
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rufusandcompany
Nov 8, 2005, 2:32 AM
Post #44 of 48
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In reply to: In reply to: lynn hill beth roden They don't boulder that hard. One thing I noticed is that someone earlier said that the whole giving examples of tall people does not work because you can easily give examples of short people who boulder hard. I thought about this but I could not think of any short people who boulder nearly as hard as Sharma, Loskot, Stefanek, Nicole, Zangerl, Graham, Hukkataival, and I'm not sure but aren't Smith and Moon of decent height? The hardest climbing short climber I can think of is Ivan Green, who climbs what V11?
Ben is tall. I am 6', and he seems to be the same height or close to it. Not to mention, the boy has plenty of power.
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squierbypetzl
Moderator
Nov 8, 2005, 5:35 AM
Post #45 of 48
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What about that girl that pulled a V10 at age 10? Can´t imagine her being very tall...
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rufusandcompany
Nov 8, 2005, 6:21 AM
Post #46 of 48
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How tall will this thread grow before the shallowness of its message is realized?
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squid
Nov 10, 2005, 6:54 PM
Post #47 of 48
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Registered: Dec 22, 2003
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I have a buddy who is 6'10" and really like to climb, his problem is that he cannot do most of the routes that the rest of climb, even at out home wall. Any suggestions on how to set routes up for him.
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mflanigan
Nov 29, 2005, 6:53 PM
Post #48 of 48
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Sure there are problems that can be harder for taller guys or girls, but 80 to 90 percent of the time being tall helps more than it hurts. My opinion embrace it and be glad its yours. It doesn't mean you not strong or a good climber.
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