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lux39
Nov 10, 2005, 9:23 PM
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Can someone explain to me why roofs freak me out so much ,I can lead off a 5-10b or c outside as long as it does not have a ROOF crimpers,credit cards are no problem but as soon as the route turns upside-down even with big jugs I get all freaked out @$#@ has anyone out-there overcame this problem.. :?
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devkrev
Nov 10, 2005, 9:27 PM
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climb some at the gunks you get used to roofs REALLY quick then again, there is no sport climbing there I'll shut up now later dev
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landgolier
Nov 10, 2005, 9:49 PM
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Some might scoff, but this is one place where the gym really does help. You don't even need to lead roofs indoors, though a little practice with the awkward upside down clips wouldn't hurt. Just get in the bouldering cave and get used to being upside down, making confident moves, and chilling on big jugs. If you're like most people, bad overhangs give you a "time bomb" feel, like your seconds up there are numbered and every hold just wants to spit you off. Clear that from your head, and you can cruise big roofs. As for the smaller stuff (2-4' overhangs that only take 1-3 moves to get past), find one you can work on toprope and get good at making them happen fast. You just have to get the moves burned into your brain: get under it and make a plan, get out on it, get a hand over the edge and lock off, hike your feet or heel hook, and get off of it. Each one is different, of course, but they all have the same basic moves. Finally, my maxim on crappy moves is always "think like an aid climber: if it sucks, get off of it quick." For aid it refers to placements, but on free it's the same principle: comitting now is better than comitting later, and once you're on the bad section you want to be off of it as quick as you can without blowing it by being hasty. It ain't like there's rest moves on a roof (unless you find a knee bar). I know this kind of sounds like it goes against the first idea of chilling out on roofs, but the idea here is get calm, and then get quick. Oh yeah, and do those crunches :D
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philbox
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Nov 10, 2005, 10:28 PM
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I used to get spooked on roofs and bulges until I installed a roof woody at my shed. As the previous poster stated you simply have to get used to climbing on a roof and the easiest way to do that is indoors. You should also pay a lot of attention to your feet on a roof, they can take a lot of weight off your hands. Developing pinch strength helps too.
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jdouble
Nov 10, 2005, 10:45 PM
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Remember the monkey bars when you were a kid? Same principle on a jug haul, just looks a little different. When you get to the roof section, close your eyes and picture 3rd grade.
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jakedatc
Nov 10, 2005, 10:45 PM
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Yep.. footwork tends to get overlooked on roofs.. keeping straight arms is another that will let you hang off the bones and not your muscles as much. heel hooks.. even tossing your foot sideways onto a hold if you cant get a straight up and down heel. depending on the terrain toe hooks work nice too but not as often abs.. find a place to do pull ups where you can get your feet out horizontal and get functional training practice campusing.. i'm not saying you're going to campus on route but if your feet cut then you need the same muscles and skills to get your feet back on hopefully once you get more confident on overhangs you can relax and not over grip too much. i like roofs but my latest project is alot more sustained roof and long moves than ive done before so i know i overgripped in the beginning of the route that hurt me later on. also my foot work wasnt great because i was looking too much at where my hands had to go if the clipping part is your problem then hang a draw so it's free hanging and jsut practice.. you'll get used to grabbing it in ways so that it wont spin on you
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overlord
Nov 11, 2005, 7:17 AM
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i was also afraid of roofs for quite some time. i was mostly afraid of falling. then i fell a few times and realized that im actually totally safe. so now i really like climbing roofs.
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lux39
Nov 11, 2005, 10:05 PM
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I am not afraid of falling *scratching me head* did enough of that this summer ,must be a mental thing :roll: have to work on it ....
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lux39
Nov 11, 2005, 10:14 PM
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In reply to: Yep.. footwork tends to get overlooked on roofs.. keeping straight arms is another that will let you hang off the bones and not your muscles as much. heel hooks.. even tossing your foot sideways onto a hold if you cant get a straight up and down heel. depending on the terrain toe hooks work nice too but not as often abs.. find a place to do pull ups where you can get your feet out horizontal and get functional training practice campusing.. i'm not saying you're going to campus on route but if your feet cut then you need the same muscles and skills to get your feet back on hopefully once you get more confident on overhangs you can relax and not over grip too much. i like roofs but my latest project is alot more sustained roof and long moves than ive done before so i know i overgripped in the beginning of the route that hurt me later on. also my foot work wasnt great because i was looking too much at where my hands had to go if the clipping part is your problem then hang a draw so it's free hanging and jsut practice.. you'll get used to grabbing it in ways so that it wont spin on you Thanks for the advice ,I thing I do have a tendency of overgripping and and burning to much energy for no reason feet feet feet I am always told this ,but I must remember that I only started climbing this summer and I can lead in the 10 "s not so bad seeing that I am no young pup :lol: once again thanks for the advice
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lux39
Nov 11, 2005, 10:16 PM
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In reply to: Remember the monkey bars when you were a kid? Same principle on a jug haul, just looks a little different. When you get to the roof section, close your eyes and picture 3rd grade. Will try that next time maybe not the eye closing part maybe its the dangling falls that I hate !!!!
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lux39
Nov 11, 2005, 10:20 PM
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In reply to: I used to get spooked on roofs and bulges until I installed a roof woody at my shed. As the previous poster stated you simply have to get used to climbing on a roof and the easiest way to do that is indoors. You should also pay a lot of attention to your feet on a roof, they can take a lot of weight off your hands. Developing pinch strength helps too. Well the plywood season already started over here and even there I avoid the roofs when I can :roll: Inside sounds like a good place to work on roofs ,be ready for next summer :)
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lux39
Nov 11, 2005, 10:26 PM
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In reply to: Some might scoff, but this is one place where the gym really does help. You don't even need to lead roofs indoors, though a little practice with the awkward upside down clips wouldn't hurt. Just get in the bouldering cave and get used to being upside down, making confident moves, and chilling on big jugs. If you're like most people, bad overhangs give you a "time bomb" feel, like your seconds up there are numbered and every hold just wants to spit you off. Clear that from your head, and you can cruise big roofs. As for the smaller stuff (2-4' overhangs that only take 1-3 moves to get past), find one you can work on toprope and get good at making them happen fast. You just have to get the moves burned into your brain: get under it and make a plan, get out on it, get a hand over the edge and lock off, hike your feet or heel hook, and get off of it. Each one is different, of course, but they all have the same basic moves. Finally, my maxim on crappy moves is always "think like an aid climber: if it sucks, get off of it quick." For aid it refers to placements, but on free it's the same principle: comitting now is better than comitting later, and once you're on the bad section you want to be off of it as quick as you can without blowing it by being hasty. It ain't like there's rest moves on a roof (unless you find a knee bar). I know this kind of sounds like it goes against the first idea of chilling out on roofs, but the idea here is get calm, and then get quick. Oh yeah, and do those crunches :D Great advice thanks I do freeeeeeze up alot will be working these moves inside this winter ,another problem I have is clipping when i am in the roofs must be the panic stage setting in .....
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lux39
Nov 11, 2005, 10:29 PM
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In reply to: climb some at the gunks you get used to roofs REALLY quick then again, there is no sport climbing there I'll shut up now later I have heard of the gunks my friends climb there trad right I will check it out ... dev
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ninja_climber
Nov 11, 2005, 10:39 PM
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I was nver afraid of falling on a roof. You don't hit anything on the way down...of course there is alwys the chhacne of swinging into the wall,but you just have to watch out for that :D
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climbingaggie03
Nov 11, 2005, 11:08 PM
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Yeah, be like Nike and just do it :) practice (inside or out) will help, but I think the key is to keep moving, even if the move feels wrong, just keep going and get it over with, or fall (unless you're looking at a bad fall or it's dangerous, in that case, ignore me so you can't sue me)
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bvb
Nov 11, 2005, 11:28 PM
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odd. roofs are generally considered the most prized of all climbing terrain, regardless of rock type.
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shanz
Nov 11, 2005, 11:45 PM
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roofs never really freaked me out much but i did find that though i didnt have alot of problem with a face climbs. roof climbs always seemed to kick my butt. About 6 months ago started research it and found that core strength was weak. Having alot less problems with roof climbs now that my core has gotten better
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lux39
Nov 12, 2005, 6:49 PM
Post #18 of 19
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In reply to: Yeah, be like Nike and just do it :) practice (inside or out) will help, but I think the key is to keep moving, even if the move feels wrong, just keep going and get it over with, or fall (unless you're looking at a bad fall or it's dangerous, in that case, ignore me so you can't sue me) Good advice do tend to freeze up * WHY* I dont know ,next climb I will keep that in mind and keep on rollin rollin rollin !!!!
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lvclimbingbum
Nov 16, 2005, 3:56 AM
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I'm more comfortable on roofs because if I fall, I'll just swing, now fall and hit the wall (on lead). Besides, roofs are the most fun.
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