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stroker
Nov 1, 2005, 11:54 PM
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Registered: Nov 27, 2001
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I'm heading to Mt Rainier this next year, and want to get the best bang for my time. I was thinking Liberty Ridge. I want something that'll require steeper angles. I don't want to be on anything that is insanely crowded. Whats the skinny people?
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jason_martin
Nov 3, 2005, 12:57 AM
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Liberty Ridge can be crowded sometimes. As in there are three or four parties on the route at once. This may not seem like much, but at the Thumb Rock Bivy it can be tight.
Generally Liberty Ridge is best for only a very short season. May and June are when it seems to get climbed the most. Other than that, there is a LOT of rockfall on the lower part of the mountain.
Any route that you do aside from the DC or the Emmons will be crowd free. Any route you do aside from those two will also have a few steep sections to negotiate.
Perhaps the best early season route on the mountain is the Gibralter Ledges route. I also think that Kautz is a nice route...
Jason
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sandstone
Nov 3, 2005, 1:55 AM
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Liberty Ridge is a really nice route if you catch it in good conditions in early season (when there's enough snow to hold together the crumbly excuse for rock). When I did it we had mostly good neve, some water ice, and just a few rock moves. The views down the ridge with the Carbon Glacier snaking its way down the valley in the background are spectacular. The views across the Willis Wall ain't that bad either. Definately a good bang for the buck IMO.
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wargowsky
Nov 3, 2005, 2:55 AM
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i highly recommend Gib Ledges. It's not traveled as much as easier routes like DC. The views are amazing. And it's more than just a tipical snow slog.
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sandstone
Nov 3, 2005, 3:05 AM
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You never know on the crowds, we saw only two other people, and that was on the approach hike. The rest of the time we had the whole north side of the mtn to ourselves (including Camp Schurman and the Emmons Glacier on our descent).
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crag
Nov 3, 2005, 3:15 AM
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In reply to: i highly recommend Gib Ledges. It's not traveled as much as easier routes like DC. The views are amazing. And it's more than just a tipical snow slog.
The Willis Wall
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weekendclimber
Nov 3, 2005, 3:32 AM
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If you want something that is more likely not to be crowded and a little more of a commitment, then you can head up the west side road and tackle something like the Sickle or the Tahoma Glacier. Plan on three days with a carry over unless you are Mark Twight or you could bicycle up the road and come back the same way to pick up the bikes. The area going into the approach is really nice and the sunsets are unbeatable (west side).
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tetons
Nov 5, 2005, 3:17 PM
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Registered: Oct 7, 2004
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Just a thought, but I've always liked the look of Fuhrer Finger. i have not done it, understand it is seasonal like everything in the high peaks, but it''s a nice line. I have done several routes in and around Liberty Ridge, which is of course very worthy and a great route. We did not bivy at the Thumb but climbed from a nice camp at the edge of the glacier. I have always enjoyed a visit to Rainier even when the weather shuts us down -- beautiful hiking in big trees and a special mtn. Stay safe, have a great time, look over the Finger and get some more feedback on that one. I think logistics are awkward, but so what.
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stroker
Nov 15, 2005, 1:08 AM
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Registered: Nov 27, 2001
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Thank you for all your insight and input. I recently bought a book and am highly considering Gib Ledges.
Cheers!
-tda
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bluesky
Nov 15, 2005, 1:12 AM
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Registered: Aug 14, 2002
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I've done Gib Ledges and Fuhrer Finger. Fuhrer Finger is very condition dependent (avalanche danger) but can be very good / fun in the right conditions. Gib Ledges is an excellent route, in early season like others have said.
Good Luck
Jesse
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kixx
Dec 9, 2005, 2:28 PM
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Registered: Nov 23, 2005
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Gib ledges is a good choice, great route. PM me for pics and beta.
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jackscoldsweat
Dec 9, 2005, 3:14 PM
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Registered: Jun 18, 2003
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Rumor has it Ptarmagin Ridge rivals Liberty Ridge minus the crowds.
Mowich Face
North Mowich Ice Cliff
Willis Wall, Ice Cliff
Sunset Amphitheater Headwall
have fun.
JCS
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climbrc
Dec 9, 2005, 3:40 PM
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Registered: Aug 9, 2002
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mmmmm.. Gib Ledges.. Awesome route, good exposure, relatively "easy" and straight forward. Although, driving a pick into frozen dirt was a little interesting. :? As for pro we placed a few pickets on running belay (maybe one looong screw) on the steep.
Anyway, if your considering Liberty Ridge, Gib ledges may not be difficult enough for you (but still a great route). Have you been on Rainier before? If not, make sure you know the descent (although you may be lucky to have RMI flag it for you 8^) ). We ascend gib ledges and descend DC or Ingram direct. In fact, early season you could get two routes in as we did..Ingram Direct then Gib ledges.. Makes for a great couple days!!
Cheers,
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stroker
Dec 11, 2005, 12:58 AM
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Registered: Nov 27, 2001
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Thank you all for the information. I've been hearing (from other areas of info) that the Kautz Glacier is good. I think I'm leaning to that route. What do you all think? Also, what/where is the nearest brewery to Rainier? I'm from Utah, where there are very limited options. I'm cool with cheap or micro-beer.
-Lazy in Utah
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