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crotch
Nov 29, 2005, 7:45 PM
Post #1 of 18
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Registered: Jan 16, 2003
Posts: 1277
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This is the worst bolt I have ever clipped. Bar none. I could pull it 1" out of the hole, by hand and rotated the thing 360 degrees. It held bodyweight for all of 10 seconds until I got the fuck off of it.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=65492
A beer to the first person who can ID this bolt (route and pitch).
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paganmonkeyboy
Nov 29, 2005, 7:57 PM
Post #2 of 18
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Registered: Apr 30, 2003
Posts: 663
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geez louise...gettin queasy just lookin at that thing...
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rugosity
Nov 29, 2005, 8:02 PM
Post #3 of 18
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Registered: Nov 29, 2005
Posts: 3
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That has to be none other than the bolt at the top of the last pitch of Lunar Ecstasy.
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crotch
Nov 29, 2005, 8:14 PM
Post #4 of 18
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Registered: Jan 16, 2003
Posts: 1277
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Rugosity wins with her first post. Nice work. Great pitch, isn't it?
If you make it out to San Diego, or maybe even Joshua Tree, PM me and I'll get you that beer!
Anyone else have a "name that bolt" pic to keep the game alive?
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rugosity
Nov 30, 2005, 12:42 AM
Post #5 of 18
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Registered: Nov 29, 2005
Posts: 3
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Right on...That is a killer pitch and route for that matter. That bolt looks to have gotten much worse since I was last on it about 3 years ago. I wasn't thrilled about hauling off of it : ) Were there any other bolts or placements to haul from? I can't remember...
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gqsmooth
Nov 30, 2005, 1:10 AM
Post #7 of 18
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Registered: Jun 10, 2005
Posts: 572
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In reply to: It held bodyweight for all of 10 seconds until I got the f--- off of it.
The funny thing is, as scared as you were of it, you had the foresight to make sure you took a picture of it so you could post it here later. Freaky looking bolt though....
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waterman
Nov 30, 2005, 1:29 AM
Post #8 of 18
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Registered: Oct 28, 2004
Posts: 57
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Where is this lunar ecstasy if i may ask?
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waterman
Nov 30, 2005, 1:35 AM
Post #10 of 18
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Registered: Oct 28, 2004
Posts: 57
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thanks
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machino
Nov 30, 2005, 3:23 AM
Post #12 of 18
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Registered: Apr 22, 2005
Posts: 114
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thats called a shitty bolt.
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madrock
Dec 9, 2005, 2:32 AM
Post #13 of 18
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Registered: Dec 11, 2002
Posts: 255
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Bob
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fenderfour
Dec 9, 2005, 3:54 PM
Post #14 of 18
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Registered: Sep 12, 2005
Posts: 177
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In reply to: This is the worst bolt I have ever clipped. Bar none. I could pull it 1" out of the hole, by hand and rotated the thing 360 degrees. It held bodyweight for all of 10 seconds until I got the f--- off of it. http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=65492 A beer to the first person who can ID this bolt (route and pitch).
Wouldn't this be a perfect candidate for replacement?
So instead of getting sketched while using it, why wouldn't you fix it?
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dingus
Dec 9, 2005, 4:30 PM
Post #15 of 18
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
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Thats the GGB baby, the GGB. I'll show Paris the simpleton climber's life.
DMT
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sed
Dec 9, 2005, 5:39 PM
Post #16 of 18
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Registered: Aug 3, 2003
Posts: 356
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Hmm, looks like a rawl, wonder what happened? Maybe the cone deformed when it got hammered it originally.
S
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epic_ed
Dec 9, 2005, 11:19 PM
Post #17 of 18
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Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4724
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It's Zion sandstone -- that's what happened. Bolts don't have a very long-lived life for the most part. I've heard about epoxy being used in conjunction with a bolt and it's still only useful for a few years. The sandstone just erodes quickly. Hence, why Piton Ron used drilled angles as his anchor of choice on most routes. They tend to hold up better than anything else.
Ed
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