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foxtrotuniform
Dec 24, 2005, 10:30 PM
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Here's an excellent exchange I came across on a photo page. I especially like how he argue's with the folks who try and help him out, then resorts to name calling.
Friggin teenagers...
Link to the Photo Page
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=41348
The exchange:
Are you tied in with a carabiner????????
--kman
Your fist draw looks back-clipped.
--kman
yes its back clipped, it was his first time leading..
--tharealtn
Yeah, that tie in looks very strange to me.
--gfw123
its just the angle, yes hes tied in with a locking d carabiner..whats the fuss?
--tharealtn
WHAT'S THE FUSS??? HE'S FUGIN LEADING THE CLIMB AND HE'S TIED IN WITH A D BINER!!! Why wouldn't you just tie in using the tie in points?? He's tied in with 1 d when leading and he's also back clipped. It's obvious niether of you know what you are doing. You should consider taking a course.
--kman
hey kman get a freakin life. why the hell are u going around to pictures and posting comments all day. are you a fukin looser or somthin? hes like 2ft off the ground and hes never lead climbed, plus u dumb ass...if u could read, a locking d carabiner can hold a whole lotta weight, like maybe pull a f350 straigt up your local crag. hopfully for everyones sake, ud be at the bottom when somone drops it. why dont you go hang yourself with a locking d carabiner and make sure to tie the rope around ur little twat so it can hold ur fatt ass up. you dont even know who ur talkin to. its just a picture, go f--- urself!
--tharealtn
***
Beautiful... *shakes head* I especially like the "you don't even know who ur(sic) talkin(sic) too," comment.
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brad84
Dec 24, 2005, 10:36 PM
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no worries. natural selection, eh?
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brad84
Dec 24, 2005, 10:38 PM
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but seriously, pretty lame to be so closed minded when you are dealing with something that has very direct consequences on your life. further, why not be up to learning from the experiences (or just common sense) of others?
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climbsomething
Dec 24, 2005, 10:39 PM
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I'm pretty sure the Darwin jokes that proliferate on this site are about as gag-inducing as the wanton abuse of "The best climmer is the1 who'z havng the most fun!" and "I climb for myself."
DURRR.
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brad84
Dec 24, 2005, 10:40 PM
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perhaps
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mcgivney_nh
Dec 24, 2005, 10:47 PM
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wow, this is how we teenagers get bad reputations...
-Sean
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hoofers_andy
Dec 24, 2005, 11:30 PM
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i think there are plenty of other things that teenagers do to get a bad rap...
sucks that they can't handle being wrong, especially when their safety is on the line.
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dirtineye
Dec 24, 2005, 11:56 PM
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Gym rats in the great outdoors.
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sbaclimber
Dec 24, 2005, 11:58 PM
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Remember, being a teenager makes you invincible :wink:
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ctardi
Dec 25, 2005, 12:00 AM
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In reply to: wow, this is how we teenagers get bad reputations... -Sean
erm, don't you mean "us teenagers"? Or, "this is how we, teenagers, get bad reputations."
:wink:
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billcoe_
Dec 25, 2005, 12:12 AM
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It's only later, much later after the horrible fact, that most of us (including moi) learned that the best way to live longer in this sport is to shut the hell up and listen deeply and intently.
Sad.
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g
Deleted
Dec 25, 2005, 12:25 AM
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There are plenty of things I see on this site that make me wonder how people survive as long as they do. I'm glad that I learned to climb from some good climbers (such as bigwally on this site) who never rushed me into some crap like that. When I started leading, I was pretty well prepared.
It is his first lead, so he throws his friend on a 5.9?
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foxtrotuniform
Dec 25, 2005, 1:19 AM
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First off, I apologize for my earlier "friggin teenagers" comment. In a sport where death from ignorance is a very real possibility, I have short patience for people who won't take advice given. So my bad on stereotyping you when I'm only 23 myself.
Now, the reason what you were doing is unsafe has been covered quite a bit, but for convenience for those who may not be familiar I'll briefly cover it.
If you back clip, you are vastly increasing the chances of your rope unclipping from the draw, or your draw unclipping from the bolt hanger. The physics of this are covered elsewhere including petzl tech manuals so I'll let you do the research yourself.
Secondly, even though clipping into the rope with a single biner is sometimes practiced by gyms while toproping and guides who are belaying up seconds, it is still inadvisable. It removes redundancy in your system even if max fall forces are well below the cross load rating of your biner.
Using this setup on lead is completely unacceptable. Forces generated at the harness in a lead fall can easily exceed the crossload rating of any biner.
The only justification I can ever see for someone using the single biner tie in is in situations where clients cannot be trusted to tie in themselves (gym's and guides).
Any other use is only laziness.
Your friend would be better off learning to tie a figure 8 on his own. Every time. You never know when you'll have to trust him to tie in the dark (as I have many times).
Continue arguing if you disagree with this. And good luck out there in the real world.
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fleshwater
Dec 25, 2005, 1:58 AM
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Well Put, foxtrot
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g
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Dec 25, 2005, 2:09 AM
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In reply to: The only justification I can ever see for someone using the single biner tie in is in situations where clients cannot be trusted to tie in themselves (gym's and guides). |
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curt
Dec 25, 2005, 2:28 AM
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In reply to: This kid's going to die...
pfffft. As if there aren't enough other grommets out there climbing anyway. :roll:
Curt
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dirtineye
Dec 25, 2005, 3:25 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: This kid's going to die... pfffft. As if there aren't enough other grommets out there climbing anyway. :roll: Curt
I am starting to get the feeling that you do not know the meaning of this word. A grommet is actually quite useful when used as intended.
The Fulfillment and Admiration of Grommets Society shall be immediately informed of your insults!
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talons05
Dec 25, 2005, 4:58 AM
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In reply to: I've never been on a guided climb, but I would assume that if you did see that sort of thing, they would probably use two lockers, opposite and opposing. Plus, if I were paying for a guide, I would want to learn the most basic thing in climbing, like how to tie into the system. Of course, the client is trying to kill themselves and you, so you might take some short-cuts.
No *real* guide would use two lockers. The only redundancy there is the redundancy of an error. A guide or a more experienced climber with his 'noob' friend should tie the knot for them until they can be trusted to do it themselves. Both of these people are obviously quite inexperienced. "The blind leading the blind" They will be lucky to survive their formative years. Either they will kill themselves, or they'll insult some old salty trad-dog at their local crag and he will kick the livin' shit out of them.
P.S. to the photo taker: You are a fucking tool. You should move out of the south and up north to where you belong.
Cheers,
A.W.
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curt
Dec 25, 2005, 5:09 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: This kid's going to die... pfffft. As if there aren't enough other grommets out there climbing anyway. :roll: Curt I am starting to get the feeling that you do not know the meaning of this word.
Think surfing lingo, my inbred backwoods southern climber friend. :wink:
Curt
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dirtineye
Dec 25, 2005, 5:18 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: This kid's going to die... pfffft. As if there aren't enough other grommets out there climbing anyway. :roll: Curt I am starting to get the feeling that you do not know the meaning of this word. Think surfing lingo, my inbred backwoods southern climber friend. :wink: Curt
http://surfing.about.com/od/wordortheday/g/042105grommet.htm
According to this, a grommet is a good thing, in a way, to surfers. In fact a grommet is a young surfer, under age 15, boy or girl. They make a point of saying that there is nothing derogatory about being a grommet.
I still think you need a better word for your two friends in the picture.
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roseraie
Dec 25, 2005, 5:22 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: This kid's going to die... pfffft. As if there aren't enough other grommets out there climbing anyway. :roll: Curt I am starting to get the feeling that you do not know the meaning of this word. Think surfing lingo, my inbred backwoods southern climber friend. :wink: Curt http://surfing.about.com/od/wordortheday/g/042105grommet.htm According to this, a grommet is a good thing, in a way, to surfers. In fact a grommet is a young surfer, under age 15, boy or girl. They make a point of saying that there is nothing derogatory about being a grommet. I still think you need a better word for your two friends in the picture.
http://www.ebaumsworld.com/forumfun/misc16.jpg
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curt
Dec 25, 2005, 5:27 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: This kid's going to die... pfffft. As if there aren't enough other grommets out there climbing anyway. :roll: Curt I am starting to get the feeling that you do not know the meaning of this word. Think surfing lingo, my inbred backwoods southern climber friend. :wink: Curt http://surfing.about.com/od/wordortheday/g/042105grommet.htm According to this, a grommet is a good thing, in a way, to surfers. In fact a grommet is a young surfer, under age 15, boy or girl. They make a point of saying that there is nothing derogatory about being a grommet. I still think you need a better word for your two friends in the picture.
From Scripps.edu:
In reply to: The first time I heard the term used was in the early 60's at Windan'sea in La Jolla. It was used by Butch VanArtsdalen as a derogatory euphemism meaning "little asshole". I questioned some of the old timers (70+years) that I surf with and they recall hearing the expression used in the mid 40's to refer to anyone who was acting like a jerk, not just a youth. A retired navy captain recalls hearing it used during WWII, in the same manner, i.e. as an euhemism for asshole. It makes sense that it would originate with the navy, as a 'grommet' is: 1. a brass ring used in canvas work. 2. a thick walled rubber washer. 3. a ring made of one strand of rope laid around itself three times. The last goes back to the days of the large sailing vessels. It's speculation, but I have to wonder if the ol'salts would refer to the cabin boy as 'grommet'? Another interesting piece of slang that was on the beach in the 40's was beasel, beach+weasel, meaning a beach thief. Ron St.John
Curt
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tonloc
Dec 25, 2005, 5:39 AM
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everyone just chill out...calm down...stop saying bad stuff about geographical regions north or south...rippin on gym rats, some people have no other options...get off your high horses or shetland ponies...offer advice but dont get your f---ing ego going by badmouthing people and acting better...there is way too much of that in climbing and on this site...
P.S. A grommet is part of a tennis racket, it is the whole a string goes through...but i do appreciate the debate over that term and the owned picture
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talons05
Dec 25, 2005, 5:53 AM
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In reply to: everyone just chill out...calm down...stop saying bad stuff about geographical regions north or south...rippin on gym rats, some people have no other options...get off your high horses or shetland ponies...offer advice but dont get your f---ing ego going by badmouthing people and acting better...there is way too much of that in climbing and on this site... P.S. A grommet is part of a tennis racket, it is the whole a string goes through...but i do appreciate the debate over that term and the owned picture
No one is ripping for the fun of it (though I don't deny that enjoyment exists) It's a natural reaction to the attitude of the "climber" who posted the original pic and his response to the helpful advice of others.
Cheers,
A.W.
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