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theirishman
Jan 7, 2006, 12:27 AM
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hey so i have five ten anasazi lace ups i use for routes and ive been bouldering aton lately and the lace ups are killing me cause its a pain to loosen! So im strictly into wearing five ten. I need a bouldering shoe and ive narrowed it down to my top two. 1)Galileo and 2)V10 what is your feed back on these? all the help i can get is awsome, THANKS!
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namoclimber
Jan 7, 2006, 12:43 AM
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get a pair of both!
i have them both the v10 are so sticky and sweet for over hanging stuff and for heal hooks and toe hooks. But they do lack a bit on the edging and smearing side of things at first compared to the Galileo.
but both are good and after you wear the edge off the v10 they start to work all around too. you will be happy with either I'm sure .
i cant usually decide which ones to wear.
but for roofs v10
everything else its a toss up
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ozoneclimber
Jan 7, 2006, 1:03 AM
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Check out the Moccasims also. I love mine, they're highly sensitive and easy to get on and off. In my experience they're a little better than the V10 in the all-around.
The Galileos are killer. They just like the anasazis but stickier and without so much pain.
-Bobby
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dudemanbu
Jan 7, 2006, 6:25 AM
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zlippers are my new favorite shoe. Too bad they're not around anymore. I personally like the V-10 better than the gallileo's because i couldn't get the heel to fit right on the G's. Really, it's going to come down to which of these two shoes fits your foot better. See if you can try them both out in a couple sizes. The G's will stretch none to little (from what i've heard from the people that own them) and the V10's to about a half size (in my case)
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dlintz
Jan 7, 2006, 6:55 AM
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Registered: Sep 9, 2002
Posts: 1982
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5.10 only? Do you own stock? :P
Seriously there's a lot of good bouldering shoes out there: La Sportiva Katanas, Evolv Bandits, Rage, Kaoses, Boreal Pyros, and a bunch from Mad Rock. With the variety of shoes out there I find it pointless to hold affiliation to just one manufacturer.
d.
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goob3r
Jan 7, 2006, 7:38 AM
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Registered: Jan 6, 2006
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I picked up some mocassims about a week ago.. haven't a single complaint yet.. just be sure to buy them small... very small
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rastafari
Jan 7, 2006, 9:15 AM
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Registered: Jul 19, 2005
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Moccasins for sure.
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ninja_climber
Jan 7, 2006, 10:42 AM
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Why only 5.10? If you ever change your mind get a pair of the LaSport Mantra S. Killer Bouldering Shoe!
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organic
Jan 7, 2006, 10:48 AM
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Registered: Jul 16, 2003
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No dude GET THE RADICAL SUPER V17OnsightMoccarocks anything else is just rubber and cloth!
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rastafari
Jan 7, 2006, 7:17 PM
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Oh yeah, mantra S are good to. That would be an excelent choice.
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goob3r
Jan 9, 2006, 9:07 AM
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update on my mocassins.. they're stretching out a little more, and I've found that while they're really good and sticking with the sides and soles, toe-ing suffers a little for some reason..
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mchristie
Jan 9, 2006, 3:01 PM
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You actually need 2 pairs of shoes if you boulder a lot. My personal preference is :
5.10 Mocasym: vertical faces to hard slabs, mocs can not be beat. They are also wonderful for warming up and sending moderates. On hard slab problems or for hard smearing, I would use no other shoe. I buy mine 1 full size smaller than my anasazi velcros, and they stretch perfectly. I'm on my 7th pair if it tells you anything about them (and yes many have been resoled.
Something recurved and pointy: Kitanas, anasazi velcro, etc etc....You need something the can toe in hard on overhanging problems, toe hook and heel hook. There are a ton of shoes that fit this bill and perform wonderfully. I personally have had almost a dozen high performance slippers and what I have found is that it comes down to personal preference. Sure some rubber is better than others, but does the shoe fit you? Find a shoe that actually fits your foot.
Just my 2 cents
Matt
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mflanigan
Jan 9, 2006, 5:56 PM
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Registered: Nov 29, 2005
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listen to what everyone is telling you. get some moccasyms. i've bought two pairs and are all around my favorite bouldering shoe. i've got some red chile x-cubes and a pair five ten dragons that i use only for steep stuff. other wise i'm wearing my five tens. check out evolv as well. their cheap and they make a damn fine bouldering all around shoe.
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local401
Jan 9, 2006, 6:05 PM
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Registered: Feb 26, 2005
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testarossas.....thats all
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iltricheco
Jan 11, 2006, 12:26 AM
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Registered: Jan 11, 2006
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yep, its all about the testarossa's
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bizarrodrinker
Jan 19, 2006, 8:28 PM
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I climb in 5.10 spires. They are so f-ing comfortable andthey are awesome for smearing, and the heel is small, which allows for great heel hooking. I would however like a pair of easy access shoes for circuits. Any ideas? I was thinking mocosyms or something with velcro.
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nevenneve
Jan 21, 2006, 11:49 PM
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Coming from the stiff board lasted spire's, I think the moccasyms might be a bit too much of a change. You can about tie them in a knot since they are just rubber and leather.(try that with the spires) You might enjoy a pair of mr flash's. On the other hand, buy the moccasym's and use them sparingly until your feet are strong enough to use them for extended periods of time.
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jaybro
Jan 22, 2006, 1:39 AM
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Registered: Feb 2, 2005
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Those Testarosa guys speak truth, iif it fits your foot, that is.
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miavzero
Jan 22, 2006, 5:45 AM
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Registered: Oct 8, 2005
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In reply to: Those Testarosa guys speak truth, iif it fits your foot, that is.
Why not go with the anasazi velcos or slipper? V10s are good but expensive. Madrock Locos have a similar shape, cost less and won't tear at the heal. Sportiva Venoms are also good.
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lesserpower
Jan 22, 2006, 7:29 PM
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Registered: Jan 19, 2006
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Peace be with you all.
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styndall
Jan 22, 2006, 9:09 PM
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Registered: May 29, 2002
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In reply to: why not buy some from rc.com? Oh, that's right Because RC.com's gear sucks the bag and it takes forever to get to get shipped to you.
What are you even talking about? RC.com doesn't even sell gear.
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genius
Jan 24, 2006, 9:12 PM
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Registered: Oct 15, 2004
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LS Venom or Mantra S... :wink:
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powerhousebum
Jan 24, 2006, 9:58 PM
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Registered: Aug 11, 2005
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For anything except slab, i have to go with the evolv agro. They feel super nice on your feet and perform just as well or better than any other shoe that i've had. They're also pretty cheap at 85 bucks
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powerhousebum
Jan 24, 2006, 10:01 PM
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Registered: Aug 11, 2005
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For anything except slab, i have to go with the evolv agro. They feel super nice on your feet and perform just as well or better than any other shoe that i've had. They're also pretty cheap at 85 bucks
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