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prowsolo
Jan 15, 2006, 4:19 AM
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Three climbing accidents in Hidden Valley Today within about 30min.
Toe Jam - Very Bad?
Spiderline- Very, Very, Very Bad. Ground Fall.
Overhang Bypass
Juanito
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fredbob
Jan 15, 2006, 4:33 AM
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More details?
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timm
Jan 15, 2006, 4:41 AM
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In talking with a friend that works for the NPS at the JT Entrance station, she only knew of two accidents. ... both head injuries. The first one was supposedly ok but was transported via private auto to be checked out. The second had a "bad" head injury and the helicopter was called. When it took off it appeared to be heading south and I assume that it was going to Palm Springs.
Hopefully everyone will be ok.
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locker
Jan 15, 2006, 4:59 AM
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third was on Intersection and minor injury where said climber and party transported self to hospital. SuperTopo has the best details currently.
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majid_sabet
Jan 16, 2006, 6:28 AM
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cool photo here.
img387.imageshack.us/img387/2679/deathbelay5gd.jpg
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hosh
Jan 16, 2006, 6:51 AM
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In reply to: In talking with a friend that works for the NPS at the JT Entrance station, she only knew of two accidents. ... both head injuries. The first one was supposedly ok but was transported via private auto to be checked out. The second had a "bad" head injury and the helicopter was called. When it took off it appeared to be heading south and I assume that it was going to Palm Springs. Hopefully everyone will be ok.
I was there when the chopper landed (setting up camp at site #38) and I was there as it left (heading over to climb Double Cross). From what I gathered from those around, a guy peeled from Spider line and pulled a cam placed in a flare (not sure about the cam info...) I heard that the guy hit his head and is paralyzed...
hope he's ok...
Not intended to sound unsympathetic, but... {edited for taste. sorry if I offended any!}
hosh.
P.S. what does this:
In reply to: cool photo here. |
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socalclimber
Jan 16, 2006, 2:13 PM
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This photo is a typical weekend at josh. It amazes me we don't have more accidents on this route. I have seen as many as 6 parties in a single afternoon make the same mistake as in the picture above. The sad part is there is a perfectly good anchor right at the top of the route. You can see it!
Robert
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overlord
Jan 16, 2006, 2:17 PM
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is it just me or the balayer isnt anchored?? hard to tell though.
and i think majid_sabet was trying to point out that they dont have helmets, let alone full body armor :twisted:
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thegreytradster
Jan 16, 2006, 3:21 PM
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The potentially fatal error here is that the crux is at the end of the vertical crack and the second is set up for a huge swinging fall. A fall from here would be the equivalent of a 15 or 20 ft lead fall, but with all the impact occurring on the side and potentially head not on the legs and lower extremities.
The belayer is at the rappel anchor. The proper belay is at the horizontal directly above the end of the crack. Even with absolutely no gear other than the rope, you can tie off the mushroom on the face above the horiz. and belay from an excellent stance in a grove directly in front of the horiz.
No excuse for putting the second in this kind of danger!
This may be pointing out the obvious, but given some of the comments prevalent on this site, it's probably necessary also.
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cchildre
Jan 16, 2006, 3:22 PM
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When I started Trad climbing, I was told by almost everyone that I learned from that you should always wear your brain bucket. I agree, since a simple tumble down a 5.5 slab could pound you silly without one....even with one. Then I see so many climbing without a brain bucketwhen I visit the the popular spots like J-Tree. I guess you can be confident in some regard but especially when I am leading I feel naked without the bucket.
Also, hope that everything turns out well with those injured. I hate to see that happen to anyone, bucket or not.
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hosh
Jan 16, 2006, 3:36 PM
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any new info on the accidents? I'm super curious about what happened to the people (2 guys and a girl?) who got hurt...
hosh.
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justthemaid
Jan 16, 2006, 4:23 PM
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Hope all involved are OK.
Is it just me? It seems like someone eats s**t on this climb every year.
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majid_sabet
Jan 16, 2006, 9:48 PM
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In reply to: any new info on the accidents? I'm super curious about what happened to the people (2 guys and a girl?) who got hurt... hosh.
Hosh
I am sure you know what is wrong with that photo and this is why things go wrong and people get hurt. if you badly need to find out what happened in JT, I know the head of SAR team but again wait for NPS to report it on their daily news.
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jakedatc
Jan 17, 2006, 12:12 AM
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In reply to: Is it a pre-accident pic of one of the J-tree accidents in quesiton?
In reply to: And if so, why is it labeled "cool" photo?
Majid answer these questions..
simple solution even if you want to use the rap anchor as your belay anchor is to just throw a directional at hte top of the route.. protect the 2nd.
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vegastradguy
Jan 17, 2006, 1:08 AM
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my limited knowledge of what happened in HVCG was that the guy who fell on Spiderline pulled at least one piece when he fell and decked- the head trauma was extensive and the person who saw it and relayed the info to me told me it would be a miracle if he survived- my prayers go to him and his loved ones.
the toe jam accident....man, why would you just not set a bombproof anchor at the top of the crack? i figured thats just what you do up there.....that poor girl. i heard she was okay, but took quite a blow to the head when she fell.
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raymondjeffrey
Jan 17, 2006, 1:43 AM
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That picture is indeed Toe Jam correct? If so there is a purple alien 'sorta' fixed in the horizontal that belongs to Beth curtesy of yours truly. If you retreive it, please let me know so that I may return it to her.
Jefro
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moabbeth
Jan 17, 2006, 1:58 AM
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Heh, I was wondering when that might come upJeff !! You sure got that thing in there good, I think a hacksaw might have cleaned it but some of the wires on the stem looked like they were fraying anyway so I didn't feel too bad that that lil soldier got abandoned.
So if it's still there, there's literally a fixed Alien at the top that could protect the second. Hell, even if there wasn't and you just HAD to belay off the rap anchors (which you totally don't cause you can build a bomber anchor at the top), you could throw a piece in at the top and then belay off the anchors, thus saving the chance of a penji.
How that route sees the injuries it does is just sad. There's so much room to climb that thing safe and bomber. I guess cause it's a lower grade it might get less experienced people on it, but still. It's real basic safety stuff on that line. Hope whoever the victim is has a speedy recovery.
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dood
Jan 17, 2006, 3:03 AM
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In reply to: dumbshiite Curt
Confucius say: "Man who belay with foot should not mock others."
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tradrenn
Jan 17, 2006, 3:23 AM
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In reply to: is it just me or the balayer isn't anchored?? hard to tell though.
Am I seeing things, or is he clipped to a bolt on his left hand side ?
I wish a speedy recovery for all the injured ones.
Edited:To remove a part of my post that was inappropriate for this thread.
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climbsomething
Jan 17, 2006, 3:26 AM
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Is this season seeing a spike in serious accidents? The timing on them is also pretty remarkable, how they bunch up. Can Fonda from JTSAR confirm or deny an increase?
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raymondjeffrey
Jan 17, 2006, 3:38 AM
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tradrenn is right: the belayer is indeed 'to the left of the anchor' which means that if the second whips, then not only does the second take a big penji, but the belayer takes a mini penji as well. Jeezusness, two potential penji's.
Friggin' be careful, will you please
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dood
Jan 17, 2006, 3:51 AM
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Do you kiss your mother with that mouth?
In reply to: P.S. I wish a speedy recovery for all the injured ones.
Amen to that.
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bvb
Jan 17, 2006, 4:53 AM
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we were over at the peyote cracks when we saw the chopper come in and land in hidden valley. in the 2 hours we spend dinking arond in the campgroung that morning, we saw half-a-dozen potentially fatal misyakes being made by people who were clearly coming staight outta gymland and into the tree- which for the most part is not a great place to lean to place pro on the lead. i got sketched out leading the 5.4 route on the blob, fer chrissakes. you have to to a trick move 20' out from a 1/4" spinner, and i just had the rope tied loosley around my waist.
dicey place, the tree. good place to get yer noggin cracked.
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thegreytradster
Jan 17, 2006, 5:22 AM
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In reply to: dicey place, the tree. good place to get yer noggin cracked. |
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