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alex234
Feb 8, 2006, 6:18 PM
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Registered: May 19, 2004
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hey guys
im plannin on goin to seneca in march and had a few questions about it.
is a standard gunks rack fine for there? what would u suggest for additional gear. Whats a good guidebook to get? What should we expect for weather around march 13ish? is there free camping closeby? Any route reccomendations up to 5.8?
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brianc
Feb 8, 2006, 6:43 PM
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gunks rack will do ya.
hard to say re: weather. might be super nice, might not be. spring[ish] in the mid-atlantic is a bit of a crap shoot. one thing you can do to max your enjoyment on days that arte likely to be cold is to climb the east face in the morning then switch to the west side in the afternoon. follow the sun and be warm.
routes:
5.3: skyline traverse (jump to kaufman-cardon (5.4)) to stay in the sun, gunsight to south peak (super classic w/ great exposure)
5.4: ectasy jr, conn's west direct, le gourmet
5.5: thais, conn's east (good linkup in the sun from the aforementioned skyline/kaufman hookup), cany corner, easy over
5.6: front-c, banana (akward), debbie(? - it's right above banana), critter crack, dirty old man, le gourmet direct
5.7: ecstasy, simple j malarkey, westpole, green wall, pleasant overhangs, prune (p1 is a good 5.5), soler
5.8: the burn, tomato, triple-s.
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tgreene
Feb 8, 2006, 6:46 PM
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Registered: Oct 22, 2003
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If you're not familiar w/ Seneca, keep in mind the sandbag ratings... :wink:
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fishbelly
Feb 8, 2006, 6:48 PM
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A standard gunks rack should get it done. More vert cracks than hori. pink tri cams are handy. Some runners or slings the long side
Double ropes
Barnes guide.
Free camping near by.. only if you r quick
Weather in march? most like ly cool and sunny..
Snow is not out of the question
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scrapedape
Feb 8, 2006, 7:02 PM
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brianc's recommendations are all pretty good. For the grades you're looking for, I would especially recommend West Pole and Triple S.
Camping: Princess Snowbird is not free, but it's the next best thing: $5 pppn, including (hot) showers. Pay at Yokum's at the highway junction.
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wjca
Feb 8, 2006, 7:26 PM
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In reply to: gunks rack will do ya. hard to say re: weather. might be super nice, might not be. spring[ish] in the mid-atlantic is a bit of a crap shoot. one thing you can do to max your enjoyment on days that arte likely to be cold is to climb the east face in the morning then switch to the west side in the afternoon. follow the sun and be warm. routes: 5.3: skyline traverse (jump to kaufman-cardon (5.4)) to stay in the sun, gunsight to south peak (super classic w/ great exposure) 5.4: ectasy jr, conn's west direct, le gourmet 5.5: thais, conn's east (good linkup in the sun from the aforementioned skyline/kaufman hookup), cany corner, easy over 5.6: front-c, banana (akward), debbie(? - it's right above banana), critter crack, dirty old man, le gourmet direct 5.7: ecstasy, simple j malarkey, westpole, green wall, pleasant overhangs, prune (p1 is a good 5.5), soler 5.8: the burn, tomato, triple-s.
What he said, plus here is the guide book you need.
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markc
Feb 8, 2006, 7:37 PM
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Registered: Jan 21, 2003
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What they said. The Barnes guide is pretty spot-on with suggested routes. As far as weather, the monthly averages for March are listed at 56F for the high, and 29F for the low. That doesn't mean much, as the weather there can change pretty quick. Especially early and late in the season, it pays to come prepared and remain flexible.
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reg
Feb 8, 2006, 7:43 PM
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wow that's a lot! tons o climbs up to 8's! i started to name a few but theres to many. pm me and i could photo copy and send you some pages from the guide book by tony barnes which i thought was out of print but it appears that falcon guides is doing it currently:
http://www.amazon.com/...212?%5Fencoding=UTF8
lots of 1-4" cams placements, quick draws - maybe a few, mostly 2 & 4 ft slings - i'd say a dozen mountain draws on two footers, 2-4 on four footers, maybe 2 sets of BD nuts, i always have some tri's. i would also carry some 1" tape (15'?) and rap rings cause not sure the quaility of some raps. guides probably haven't been up to chk um out that early in the season. try the via ferrata as well. here's some links
http://www.senecarocks.com/
http://www.nelsonrocks.org/via.html
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forkliftdaddy
Feb 8, 2006, 7:56 PM
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In more congested areas, you will want a helmet. That may or may not be part of your gunks rack.
One more route suggestion: pitches 1 + 2 of Climbin' Punishment (on the Southern Pillar)
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microbarn
Feb 8, 2006, 7:58 PM
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I am pretty sure it is 5.5 "candy corner" not "cany corner".
I found it very easy to get camping. I can't imagine the cliffs will be packed during march even in good weather.
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fishbelly
Feb 8, 2006, 8:28 PM
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Make sure you top out. :)
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markc
Feb 8, 2006, 9:23 PM
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Registered: Jan 21, 2003
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In reply to: I am pretty sure it is 5.5 "candy corner" not "cany corner". I found it very easy to get camping. I can't imagine the cliffs will be packed during march even in good weather.
Now you're spoiling a little fun. I love Cany Corner.
I've camped at Snowbird on really crowded weekends (like the Memorial Day weekend a few years ago). I haven't always had an official site, but I've always found somewhere to pitch my tent.
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erclimb
Feb 8, 2006, 9:39 PM
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dude, definitely take a helmet...even if it's not crowded, there's still plenty of loose rock...and the ratings are typical east coast sandbag...the motto for seneca is "vertical, sustained and exposed"...now, for some reason, 5.7 is the sweet spot, and there are three climbs that are airy but reasonably rated: ecstasy, west pole, and green wall...the start of the third pitch of west pole will test your head and a very large very loose boulder at the second overhang will scare the sh-- out of you, but it's all worth it
all of these climbs are on the west face, so march mornings might be cold...and there is ALWAYS wind so carry your windstopper and use radios if you have them
if it's too cold, head up the road to franklin for some great sport climbing with southern exposure
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roshampo
Feb 8, 2006, 10:39 PM
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Registered: Feb 1, 2005
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As far as gear goes, i think two sets of nuts is handy, you can do alot with just these. Bring alot of runners, i always seem to run out by the end of a pitch. Thais is a pile and easy to get lost on. Get on Triple S and The Burn, the first pitch of Marshall's is good if you're feeling good and looking for a hard single pitch. Ye Gods and Little Fishes is great for the one last pitch on your way out. Gunisight to south peak may be one of the most classic easy pitches I've been on.
As much as I hate wearing helmets, it's always a good idea here. Especially if you're by Candy Corner and Ye Gods.
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