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moci
Feb 8, 2006, 5:12 PM
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hi there,
we'll be visiting california, arizona and nevada in april/may doing the typical tour for europeans: la, sd, j.tree, las vegas, grand and bryce canyon, zion, kings canyon, yosemite, lake tahoe, sf and back to la (or something similar). having searched the internet and especially this site for hours now rather confused than helped me. i learnt that i could stop for climbing about everywhere in california and read dozens of names i cannot even find on the map.
what i am looking for:
- well-bolted sport climbing routes (max. 7a - i guess that's 5.11c/ single or multi-pitch) or boulders (!no trad climbing!)
- at a place that's worth stopping for a day or two (even if you are not climbing -> nice camping, swimming, hiking, landscape...)
- where you have a chance to borrow/rent some equipment (rope & quickdraws) for we don't want to bring it
- where you easily meet other climbers
does that sound like a week in the valley to you? where would you stop?
thanks a lot for your recommendations!
dennis
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sspssp
Feb 8, 2006, 5:23 PM
Post #3 of 16
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You can rent climbing shoes, but nobody rents ropes or draws in this country because of liability (you can do that in Europe?).
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sspssp
Feb 8, 2006, 5:24 PM
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If you are in Vegas, Red Rocks has some good, short sport climbing. The camping around Red Rocks sucks, but it is a day trip distance if you are already staying in Vegas.
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weschrist
Feb 8, 2006, 5:33 PM
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In reply to: - well-bolted sport climbing routes (max. 7a - i guess that's 5.11c/ single or multi-pitch) or boulders (!no trad climbing!)
Bishop. Owens River Gorge has good sports climbing. Decent boldering in the area too. If it is too warm there is great climbing around the Mammoth area.
In reply to: - at a place that's worth stopping for a day or two (even if you are not climbing -> nice camping, swimming, hiking, landscape...)
Excellent hot springs from Bishop up to Bridgeport... all along the eastside of the Sierras.
In reply to: - where you have a chance to borrow/rent some equipment (rope & quickdraws) for we don't want to bring it
Good luck with that. Most people aren't going to be too keen on letting others take their gear out. At least bring a couple harnesses and buy a rope for $150... at that point you may be able to catch a lap on someone's draws.
In reply to: - where you easily meet other climbers
That is not the Valley. Most people there have an agenda and it is hard to work into other people's scene... not impossible, but harder than other places I have been. But the bouldering is cool and the scenery ain't bad.
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caughtinside
Feb 8, 2006, 5:37 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: - where you easily meet other climbers That is not the Valley. Most people there have an agenda and it is hard to work into other people's scene... not impossible, but harder than other places I have been. But the bouldering is cool and the scenery ain't bad.
What? The valley is one of the easiest places to show up solo and get climbing partners. But I wouldn't head there for the sport climbing or the bouldering.
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outsideguyzak
Feb 8, 2006, 5:55 PM
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the valley has VERY little sport climbing. It does have excellent bouldering though, and some of the best trad climbing in the world. Also, Yosemite is amazing for camping, hiking, backpacking, fishing, etc. If I were you all I would bring your gear with you. No on is going to rent you quickdraws and/or climbing ropes. It would be a HUGE liability. Go ahead and bring your shoes and gear and have a blast!
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moci
Feb 8, 2006, 5:57 PM
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In reply to: You can rent climbing shoes, but nobody rents ropes or draws in this country because of liability (you can do that in Europe?). |
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weschrist
Feb 8, 2006, 6:00 PM
Post #9 of 16
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In reply to: What? The valley is one of the easiest places to show up solo and get climbing partners.
I thought it was just me for a while... but a friend had the same problem hooking up with people in the Valley... I never would have expected the same thing to happen to a cute, sweet, CANADIAN girl.
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antiqued
Feb 8, 2006, 6:49 PM
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Well - I'm an East Coast guy, but here's a start - LA and Arizona input needed, (please imaging table formatting)
la, sd, j.tree, las vegas, grand and bryce canyon, zion, kings canyon, yosemite, lake tahoe, sf and back to la
City Cliff Sport Climbers? - Weather
San Diego Mission Gorge mixed some OK
San Diego El Cajon mostly few dodge sun?
LA ??????
Vegas RedRocks yes many good
Grand Canyon ?????
Zion St George area yes no good
W side Sierras ????
E side Sierras Donner Summit mixed yes snow on ground?
E side Sierras Big Chief yes no good
E side Sierras Owens River yes yes good
E side Sierras Alabama Hills, Rock creek, Clarks Canyon, many other small attractive unpopulated areas, higher ones will have snow early, ask for conditions when you are in Bishop - Wilson's Sports store
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sspssp
Feb 8, 2006, 6:58 PM
Post #11 of 16
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In reply to: In reply to: You can rent climbing shoes, but nobody rents ropes or draws in this country because of liability (you can do that in Europe?). usually you'll find a way ;-) at a refugio or campground but of course you are right with the liability-aspect. what would you bring? is a 50m-rope and 8 draws a good standard?
50m and 8 draws would probably be pretty good. There are some places where 60m is a little more standard.
Draws aren't too bulky or heavy, I would probably do more like 10 or so. But if you go to popular areas, these would be easier to borrow.
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sspssp
Feb 8, 2006, 7:01 PM
Post #12 of 16
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In reply to: the valley has VERY little sport climbing. It does have excellent bouldering though, and some of the best trad climbing in the world.
As a percentage, the valley doesn't have much sport climbing. But if you added up all the "bolts only" climbs, I bet you might be surprised.
Now they might be run out in spots (so maybe they aren't sport climbs in this sense), but there are enough bolted climbs to keep you plenty busy for a few days.
Yosemite is a zoo in summer, but camp 4 is still a great place to mingle with climbers from all the world.
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jerrygarcia
Feb 8, 2006, 7:37 PM
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Joshua Tree -> Bishop and surrounding areas -> Tahoe
That is your best bet.
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salamanizer
Feb 8, 2006, 7:45 PM
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In reply to: Yosemite is amazing for camping
Yeah, amazingly sh!tty. :lol:
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ikefromla
Feb 8, 2006, 7:51 PM
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Registered: Oct 23, 2002
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In reply to: If you are in Vegas, Red Rocks has some good, short sport climbing. The camping around Red Rocks sucks, but it is a day trip distance if you are already staying in Vegas.
the camping there sucks, but if you'd like a house to stay at that is 15 minutes from red rocks, PM or email me. I actually do have an extra rope lying around that you are welcome to borrow if you need it as well.
-Ike
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jitterbugclimb
Feb 8, 2006, 7:56 PM
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Registered: Mar 8, 2005
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head north in california to humboldt county and check out lost rocks. you will not be disappointed- perfect temps, clear skies, beautiful rock, open beaches, free secluded camping, good people, and some of the most amazing scenery in the world. worth the five hour drive from sf.
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