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collegekid
Aug 16, 2002, 7:05 AM
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I'm very goal oriented, and one of my goals as a climber is to boulder .13 (v8-9). My question is, if the average climber trains consistently, how long does it take to climb at that level? I guess this is somewhat of a pole: How many of you boulder at this level, and how long did it take to get there?
Is it even possible for the average person to climb at that level?
[ This Message was edited by: collegekid on 2002-08-16 00:14 ]
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overlord
Aug 16, 2002, 9:49 AM
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i cant (yet). i believe that this level is achieveable for an average person, if you train consistenly. a hint: try taking a months rest from climbing, youll be suprised at the result. i was actually climbing better after the pause than before it, though i was a little weaker.
oh, i dont know how long it will take you to reach your goal. just keep kicking.
CLIMB ON
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leon0tron
Aug 16, 2002, 10:00 AM
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I dont think you can put a time on it. Everyone develops at different rates. I have a mate who has been climbing 2 and a half years and only leads 5.9 and another mate was leading 5.12 after his first year. It is good to set goals though, I set a goal of climbing a certain grade in a certain length of time then work till I get there. My folks always told me aim for the stars and you'll hit the tree, aim for the tree and you'll hit the ground. Make your goal one that you think might be unobtainable and you will get better quicker
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aulwes
Aug 16, 2002, 2:18 PM
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Yea you can't put a time on it... but you can set little goals on the way if you climb .11a now am for .12a then .13a. Or you can set your goals at smaller steps like .12a, .12b, .12c, .12d, then .13a
It may take you years to accomplish your goals so don't get discouraged!!!
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michaelmay513
Aug 17, 2002, 3:16 AM
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if you want to climb 5.13 just get on one. so what if you can't do it right then keep trying. but remember not to over do it if it hurts get off.
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crux_clipper
Aug 17, 2002, 12:33 PM
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Most people find they plataeu, when they can only lead the one grade, and wonder why they can't climb harder, and send climbs first try.
Other people can spens weeks on climbs in the gym and still not get the route.
These people just don't push themselve. They try a hard climb once, can't do it, so sitaround for the rest of the night.
My suggestion, to climb harder grades, is to lead climbs that are above you level. Once you can lead, lead all climbs, don't worry about TRing, get used to falling regularly on lead. If you fall on a route, get back on and keep going till you fall again.
So, what i'm trying to say, is climb ABOVE your limit as much as possible, otherwise you'll never build the strength to climb harder grades.
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codey
Aug 17, 2002, 2:07 PM
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I started climbing when I was ten and I climbed it on my 13 birthday! One of my freinds climbed one when he was 15 and he started a 13. It takes timme.I worked at the route for3 months and climbed it on my birthday!
Good luck!
Codey
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collegekid
Aug 18, 2002, 3:58 AM
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Ok, a little background is necessary then..
I began climbing (for first time ever) a year ago, i was a skinny x-country runner. I was doing 5.8. After a year of mostly gym climbing and lifting weights consistently, i am now capable of redpointing 5.11 (around v2-v3). I'm talking BOULDERING. Any one know how long it could take me to redpoint v7?
[ This Message was edited by: collegekid on 2002-08-17 21:00 ]
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xanx
Aug 18, 2002, 4:30 AM
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most people i know who can do v7 level have been climbing about three and a half years, average, i guess. i know someone who climbs v10 and has been climbing for about 5 yrs. and someone who climbs v8-v9 and has been climbing 4 yrs. but they are naturals
those grades are approximate; that is what they climb in the gym, i have never seen them climb outside.
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pbjosh
Aug 18, 2002, 5:20 AM
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Depends on how well I can get a cliffhanger or talon on the holds and if I can reach between all the holds by mearly topstepping or if I have to get creative and use a "hook on a stick"...
I hear The Phoenix may be a sick crack at 5.13 but in reality it's on C1
josh
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koravas
Aug 18, 2002, 5:22 AM
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I'v been climbing for almost a year now and just started bouldering recently. I'm bouldering around the v6 range now, but it also depends where you go. It seems like bouldering grades arn't always consistant around the US. For example a v6 in moab utah seemed a hell of a lot harder than a v6 in boulder colorado. I guess it depends on the person too.
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collegekid
Aug 18, 2002, 5:38 AM
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dayam! v6? shiite.
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timhinck
Aug 19, 2002, 2:19 PM
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I think one of the best things for improving quickly in bouldering is to find a friend who boulders 2 or 3 grades harder than you... someone who has done many of the grades you want to do; and climb with him. When I was thinking about sending V6/7, I would look at the problems, and they seemed so impossible. Then I went with a friend who had worked these problems many years ago. He showed me all of his tricks and insights and told me how he overcame these obstacles. Seeing him send these problems and having him help me unlock them again made sending these problems a heck of a lot easier.
Secondly, overshoot your goals. If you want to send V7, try working some V8 with some folks who are working them too. You'll be amazed how much someone else's beta can help you.
That is, of course, if you can currently climb V6. I wouldn't seriously think of projecting V7/8 until you have done many V5/6 and are beginning to feel comfortable there.
The gap between V5 and V7 is huge. Don't get discouraged!! Just keep setting goals that are just ahead of you. If you currently climb V3, I would project several V4 and also work some V5 with folks who are at that level!
have fun,
tim
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madscientist
Aug 19, 2002, 4:11 PM
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My advice will be a little different than some of the other posts. I have been climbing 9 years, and did my first V6 and V7 this year, but I have also been able to do three V7's and five V6's in five months. I would tell you to do all the V1's you can find, then all the V2's you can find, and work your way up like that.
Another important factor is to vary your climbing. Even though your goal is to do harder boulder problems, you should work on endurance. After a hard day of bouldering, do some problems that are easy but concentrate on footwork. Do some routes. Repeat problems you have done, but try to do them smother and in more control. Spend some time climbing slow, and work on your weaknesses, but find projects that emphasize your strengths.
Many people tell you that the best way to get better at climbing is to climb, this is true. But you need to spend most of your time climbing, not just working projects. Also, at least once a week follow the advice given above and try something sick.
Once you can climb V4 and V5 fairly consistantly, then start doing some climbing specific exercises like campusing.
I am not a natural climber, in fact I am naturally a bad climber. But, I have been training, and enjoying climbing now for 9 years, and am approaching the level you are looking to achieve.
Most importantly, have fun. If you are enjoying yourself you will find partners who push you, and you will improve. You will also me motivated to train. Also, be sure to rest. Your muscles get stronger while recovering, not while climbing. Of course you need to work out to recover.
Hope I have been some help.
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carnaged
Aug 19, 2002, 7:12 PM
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I don't think it matters how LONG you have to climb to boulder a v8, I've been climbing almost a year, and only climbing v3...But I gues it all depends on how hard you climb too. If you're climbing on average four times a week, don't climb as hard as you can, or you won't be able to do anything the next day. And remember...it's best to leave yourself a day of muscle-recovery and come back with full strength!
Rock hard
Kat
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elvislegs
Aug 19, 2002, 7:29 PM
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Six weeks. No more no less. I thought that was obvious.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=14603&forum=20
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rrrADAM
Aug 20, 2002, 12:22 AM
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"Average"...
95% of climbers will NEVER climb .13's, myself included.
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phil_nev
Aug 20, 2002, 1:16 AM
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I'm sorry, but i have to dissagree with all of you. Ok, setting goals is ok, like ticking a certain climb, crag whatever, but climbing dosnt have to be about big numbers. If thats all your in it for, then your climbing for the wrong reasons. Climb because you love it, because it's challenging, caus it keeps you fit.... But for gods sake, dont climb just so you can say "I CAN CLIMB 5.13". I will admit, i enjoy climbing hard grades, hard sport routes, it's amazing the bits of rock you can get your body to stick to, but i still climb easy trad routes. Who cares if it takes you 6 months or 5 years, Climb because you love it, u will get so much more out of it.
Phil.
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fitz
Aug 20, 2002, 1:56 AM
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rrradam, I hate to disagree, but I think 95% is too low. I'd put it more like 99% to 99.9% (1 in 100, to 1 in 1000 climbers).
I realized long ago that I'm not a "1". So, I just climb and enjoy. Like the man said, "If you can't learn to do something well, at least learn to enjoy doing it poorly!"
-jjf
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jt512
Aug 20, 2002, 3:07 AM
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Various people have said words to the effect that most climbers will never climb 5.13. I agree with that, but most climbers could eventually climb 5.13 if they made it enough of a priority in their lives.
5.13a is a very attainable rating, and there really isn't any big secret to attaining it. It's a matter of training consistently and intelligently.
Most climbers never get past 5.10-, and the reason for this is mainly that they don't push themselves. Climbing hard routes is uncomfortable both physically and mentally, and you have to be willing to regularly climb in this zone of discomfort to improve. I see the same climbers climbing the same routes at the local crags year after year. (SoCal locals will recognize this Chronic Stream Wall Syndrome.) Why? Because it is comfortable for them. But this sport isn't about comfort; it's about breaking down barriers. I never thought I'd climb a 5.12a. Now I'm getting into the mid-5.12s and see no reason why I can't redpoint a 5.13a within a couple of years, and continue improving beyond that. There really are no limits, other than the ones you impose on yourself. Remember, "Your body cannot go where your mind has not gone first."
-Jay
[ This Message was edited by: jt512 on 2002-08-19 20:10 ]
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collegekid
Aug 20, 2002, 3:49 AM
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thanks, that helps.
See, the thing is, i like climbing mostly for the challenge. I mean, i enjoy warming up and getting pumped on stuff that i've done before, or doing really easy stuff just for fun, but i have to challenge myself. I love the feeling of climbing a grade i never knew i could, or climbing something that looks utterly impossible. If it wasn't difficult, it wouldn't require as much mental focus...that's the whole reason climbing helps clear your mind etc etc. I mean, i do like doing fun easy routes, but difficulty is where it's at. How many times have you come home from the crag and said, "wow, i feel so content and proud of myself, i just walked up a bunch of 5.6's. My day is complete." No, you say "F*ck, i can't believe i got that 5.11 problem. I didn't even think i could do it, until (on the 16th attempt) i got the sloper on top"
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fitz
Aug 21, 2002, 6:27 AM
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JT512,
Point well taken, breaking perceived limits and striving for more from oneself is admirable. I guess my point would be better expressed as, don't get so caught up in numbers that you forget to enjoy the journey (from your posts, I know you know this, but I've met some folks who are more consumed with what they can't do, than with what they can).
College, over the years, I've enjoyed pushing myself and climbing harder routes. There is, I think, well deserved satisfaction in these personal accomplishments; regardless of how they rank against others. But, virtually all my fondest memories from climbing have nothing to do with pushing grades. Some spectacular life experiences can be had for a mere 5.6-5.8, especially when you share them with friends and family.
-jjf
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collegekid
Aug 21, 2002, 6:57 AM
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i totally understand what you mean.
I'm sure when i "plateau" or can't climb as consistently as i do, i'll be content to have fun finding neat climbs and stuff...i mean, i already enjoy doing fun climbs that look cool. Until then...
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rrrADAM
Aug 21, 2002, 7:02 AM
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Well said Jay.
Let me know when you need a belay for Twist Of Fate 5.13b, and I'll be your slave. Don't expect me to clean it though... You've seen that I am just starting to get on .12's so that's a bit out of my league.
Ya know... I pass those same people on Stream Wall each time I come in to Williamson. Another good point.
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collegekid
Aug 21, 2002, 7:07 AM
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man, i don't plan on leading a 5.13...ha. I want to boulder 5.13. I haven't tried leading yet.
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