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rockjock04
Dec 28, 2001, 3:48 AM
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I live in the wonder full flat lands of ohio (insert icon of red face that is machine gunning here). I dont know about other people but how do you find these crags? Do you just take a walk in the woods, or do you just hear about them. I'm Begging you, If you know of any crags in mid western OHIO, Please PM me. I would also like to find some secret place to go. I'm seriously thinking about askin local news to announce that I want to know some good rock climbing places, even If its just bouldering. Im in climbing hell and I want OUT:bawl:
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colin
Dec 28, 2001, 4:09 AM
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I find my "secret" crags by walking around in the woods. I seem to have a nose for finding rock. You could try getting a topo of your area or talking to any local forestry workers.
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rockjock04
Dec 28, 2001, 4:16 AM
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Thanks, I never thought of a topography map.
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paintinhaler
Dec 28, 2001, 4:21 AM
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Well you get a big bag of circus peanuts tha orange ones, pack of boose and a big helicopter and fly around your state or where ever lookin for tha phat spot.
[ This Message was edited by: paintinhaler on 2001-12-27 20:23 ]
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matt
Dec 28, 2001, 4:27 AM
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Topo maps are a good idea, but around here in Texas, I have friends that climb more than I and know of most of the spots.
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socialclimber
Dec 28, 2001, 8:39 AM
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The thing to keep in mind with topo maps is that they won't show nearly half of the climbable rock thats around. It will only show anything sizable and/or prominant enough to use as a navigation aid.
I have found alot of good rock around my area that just dosen't exist on my topo map.
When you do find your spot, make some notes, especially a map ref! or you may discover the rock has "moved" since last month when you found it.
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rrrADAM
Dec 28, 2001, 8:42 AM
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Patience, bushwacking, and hiking... 3 things I lack a fondness for.
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timhinck
Dec 28, 2001, 12:49 PM
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Finding new areas is really a hobby in itself. Infact my friends make fun of me because if I get a little homemade map from someone of a new area, it's like Christmas for me and I go and just hike around and around looking and exploring without even getting on rock.
But I would say, in your case, you need to get in touch with the local climbing community. I don't mean the local gym rats, although they can be helpful in finding some boulderfields. But you need to find the older guys who have climbed in the area for a long time. Get them to tell you where the established stuff is as well as where they think potential for new rock would be.
I promise you, once you get a lead or two and go explore it for yourself, you will get another lead off of that and another. For example you will see some rock up on a hill while you are driving to one place and must go check it out.
have fun exploring,
peace,
tim
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charrock
Dec 28, 2001, 2:41 PM
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Hey: Winter is the best time to look for rock. I hike off trail with my dog a lot and just run into the stuff. It's easier to see without the leaf cover. I'm in Maryland so we have some rock though not a lot. I've been to SE Ohio and if I recall there's a fair amount of rock down there. Also caves which is "inside" climbing. This is good for winter climbing as temps are in the high 50's. I know it's not much help but a little. Also, the gyms usually have bulletin boards looking for climbing partners. Later Charlie
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graniteboy
Dec 28, 2001, 5:57 PM
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How I find "secret crags", by Graniteboy.
I find my secret crags by being born in the middle of the best mountain range on the planet. I walk and ski and kayak extensively in my mountain range, and I do this for 4 decades. I see lotsa cool crags, most of which, if they were in some lowly place (like new york, Colorado, or Pennsyltucky), would have many many routes put up on them. But these crags are commonplace and, frankly, rather mundane out here. So I keep skiing/walking, kayaking till I find the REALLY SWEET crags. Then I climb on them, and never tell anyone. 10 years later, somebody else does the "first ascent" and makes a BIG DEAL Outta it, writing themselves up in guiebooks, etc....
But by this time, I've found a dozen more crags even better, farther from the road, and quieter.
Shhhh.
BUT: for Y'all, I suggest finding crags out in the URBAN wilderness. That way, it stays quiet here......
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jmlangford
Aug 15, 2002, 10:41 PM
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Tim said it pretty well. I have found some great places by just cruising around on little used back roads and just keeping my eyes open all the time. Unfortunately, I don't have the time to climb at all the places I've found.
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chuckd278
Aug 16, 2002, 2:19 AM
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Like everbody else has said you just have to keep looking until you find one. Keep in mind that you need to look in areas that have small outcroppings showing. It it rare to find that needle in a haystack, but if you see small outcroppings in an area it is a good place to look. Start by looking along creek beds and the steeper hills. I use to live in Indiana and know how you feel. Also you may look into old rock and stone quarries. Both in Indiana and my current location the hardest climbing can be found in a quarry.
Chuck
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therelic
Aug 16, 2002, 6:33 PM
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There are a few issues to consider before developing a secret crag. After you find the place you think you want to climb the work begins. Is the rock on private property? If so will the owner want you and your buddies climbing there? Do the cliffs have rare or endangered species on them? Is this the only section of rock on the planet in this configuration and nobody has ever researched it? Meaning, if you trample, wire brush, scrape, drill, rip up the rock and kill the mosses, lichens and plants no student or biologist will ever be able to study the unique qualities of the area and they will therefore be lost forever by your developing it. Perhaps you only need to file an EIS then develop the crag. Can you and your climbing partners keep the crag to yourself if the landowner asks you to keep it quiet? Or, will some yahoo come along; print a climbers guide against the landowner’s wishes and then have a thousand climbers show up. Of course when the hoard of climbers shows up the landowner will then be dealing with trash, human waste, vandalism, traffic and all the other problems people bring with them. The result is you may be booted off the rock after all your hard work and time. Of course all climbers would receive a black eye because you were unintentionally irresponsible and other landowners would then not allow climbing at their rock pile. There are other issues as well but these will get you started on things to think about before you get too invested in a “secret crag”.
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madturtle
Aug 16, 2002, 8:51 PM
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I feel your pain my friend. I lived in Buffalo for about 7 years up until last October, only slightly less flat than Ohio. Check out Tim Toula's Rock and Road, covers most climbing areas in north america. It has a bit of info about Ohio areas that are both developed and in need of a go getter like yourself to start the ball rolling on them. It is great reference to own I think. But if you can't find it let me know and I'll scan the OH pages and e-mail them for you.
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waxman
Aug 16, 2002, 10:33 PM
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Isn't finding rock half the fun! Just kidding. I live in South Dakota and I'm in the flat area also. I know how you feel. I just go to the local State Park where most of my climbing is done. The other places I go are ones that my other climbing friends have either done or have heard of before.
Good Luck!
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drumbum
Aug 17, 2002, 3:55 PM
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Check Out your local gym. Most people i know at gyms usually know good spots to go climbing.
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