|
ninja_climber
Mar 4, 2006, 3:21 PM
Post #1 of 8
(1398 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2005
Posts: 403
|
I was reading the heel spurs topic and realised I have no idea what they are talking about... So mixed is climbing rock walls with ice tools? or no wait thats dry tooling..or.. :? ...
Can anyone enlighten me?
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Mar 4, 2006, 3:33 PM
Post #2 of 8
(1398 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
Mixed climbing is when you climb in winter on rock which is scarcly covered in ice, and as you climb you dry tool, and ice climb, and sometimes even use frozen turf and stuff. Hard stuff.
-Magnus
|
|
|
|
|
ninja_climber
Mar 4, 2006, 6:36 PM
Post #3 of 8
(1398 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2005
Posts: 403
|
So are you basically climbing a frozen over sport or Trad route or are you doing the Ice guy thing and placing your own screws and such?
|
|
|
|
|
anykineclimb
Mar 4, 2006, 6:55 PM
Post #4 of 8
(1398 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 30, 2003
Posts: 3593
|
In reply to: So are you basically climbing a frozen over sport or Trad route or are you doing the Ice guy thing and placing your own screws and such?
ice climbing + drytooling = mixed climbing.
why is this so difficult to wrap your brain around this?
Most mixed climbs are the steep wall below/ under frozen falls. climbers will climb the rock, then onto the ice.
don't use tools on established rock routes. most drytooling/ mixed area are choss that freeze up nicely in the winter
|
|
|
|
|
ninja_climber
Mar 4, 2006, 10:23 PM
Post #5 of 8
(1398 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2005
Posts: 403
|
No I got it now. I just didn't know if they were climbing on waterfalls+rock or frozen over free climbing routes...
|
|
|
|
|
tradman
Mar 7, 2006, 9:53 AM
Post #6 of 8
(1398 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 14, 2003
Posts: 7159
|
It's not a stupid question - ethics do vary.
In continental europe and america there's a tendency to want to bolt everything for "safety", so the climbing is really "sport mixed". Elsewhere - eastern europe, parts of south america and other places, bolting is not acceptable, so trad gear is used to climb in the same style - hexes, nuts, cams and all the rest.
It basically boils down to the same questions as plague rock climbing - in some places, like the US, if it's climbable it gets bolted and if it's not climbable it's made climbable.... by bolting it. Elswehere, trad ethics rule even if it exposes climbers to high risks.
(There are notable exceptions, like Scotland, where different ethics apply bceause of exceptional local conditions, but I'm leaving that out)
|
|
|
|
|
daithi
Mar 7, 2006, 12:38 PM
Post #7 of 8
(1398 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 6, 2005
Posts: 397
|
In reply to: [in] the US, if it's climbable it gets bolted and if it's not climbable it's made climbable.... by bolting it.
:?: huh?
|
|
|
|
|
tradman
Mar 7, 2006, 12:45 PM
Post #8 of 8
(1398 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 14, 2003
Posts: 7159
|
It's a joke, Daithi - a reference to the much-publicised and controversial bolt wars in america, during which some accused US aid climbers of deliberately bringing hard climbs into their ability range by establishing bolt ladders.
|
|
|
|
|
|
