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Desired rack for Indian Creek?
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blouderk2


Mar 18, 2006, 7:58 PM
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Desired rack for Indian Creek?  (North_America: United_States: Utah: Moab: Indian_Creek)
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I know this question has been asked before, but I cant seem to get a right answer. Anyways, I would like to go to Indian Creek for my spring break but between my partner and I, I'm not sure if we have enough cams. I have doubles of .4-3 and triples in my .75. My partner has doubles in his hand sizes. So my question is, is this enough pro to take to Indian Creek? How many cams of the same size should I have? Can I get away with climbing at IC with 3-4 of the same cam size? Thanks.

-Tom


iamthewallress


Mar 18, 2006, 8:32 PM
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Re: Desired rack for Indian Creek? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I know this question has been asked before, but I cant seem to get a right answer. Anyways, I would like to go to Indian Creek for my spring break but between my partner and I, I'm not sure if we have enough cams. I have doubles of .4-3 and triples in my .75. My partner has doubles in his hand sizes. So my question is, is this enough pro to take to Indian Creek? How many cams of the same size should I have? Can I get away with climbing at IC with 3-4 of the same cam size? Thanks.

-Tom

We went w/ about 4-5 of each (5 each in off-fingers-big hands). That got us up most of what we wanted to do. When there was a climb that required an extra amount of something or other, we exchanged gear w/ the folks climbing nearby who were grateful when we returned the favor.

Anything smaller than thin hands and you'll probably want extra gear per foot of climbing for it. Lots will not be one continuous size, so you won't often need 15 (or some crazy number) of the same thing.

If you're climbing under 5.12 and don't have a special ow fetish, green camalot through blue camalot are probably your best bets for begging and borrowing before your trip. Smaller or larger gets really hard really fast, the implications of needing more than 5 of each is that the climbing will probably be rough duty.

If you look at the guidebook (S. Green) it will tell you in excruciating detail how much gear you need. In general I didn't use as much gear as he suggested and was able to vary sizes a little bit more than the "ideal rack" suggested as well.


blouderk2


Mar 19, 2006, 4:07 AM
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Re: Desired rack for Indian Creek? [In reply to]
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Bump!


mped


Mar 19, 2006, 4:39 AM
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Re: Desired rack for Indian Creek? [In reply to]
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All ya need is a roll of tape, some chalk, and a pair o' shoes. Anything else is overkill.




















....In reply, yes I would like to know the desired rack as well. O' course, my climbing partner has upwards of 50 cams.


atg200


Mar 19, 2006, 4:41 AM
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Re: Desired rack for Indian Creek? [In reply to]
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heh. not enough unless you climb 5.12.

finger sized gear is worthless unless you climb 5.11+ or harder except on a few slabby routes. bring every hand sized cam you can possible get yor hands on or you will climb nowhere but blue gramma.


styndall


Mar 19, 2006, 5:08 AM
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Re: Desired rack for Indian Creek? [In reply to]
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asendr's Creek Rack

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=68817


blouderk2


Mar 19, 2006, 7:24 AM
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Someone please tell me that I do not need THAT many cams :lol:


atg200


Mar 20, 2006, 2:09 PM
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Re: Desired rack for Indian Creek? [In reply to]
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you could skip the stoppers in that picture and add a few more big pieces.

its nice to have a mix of brands too - sometimes a #3 friend fits way better than a 2 camalot.

otherwise, that rack will get you up just about anything there.


tradmanclimbs


Mar 20, 2006, 2:38 PM
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Re: Desired rack for Indian Creek? [In reply to]
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Lat time I did an IC Bridgerjaks, Moab trip we placed 3 stoppers and 1 pink tricam all week. The rest was all cams.


jakewolf


Mar 20, 2006, 3:41 PM
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Re: Desired rack for Indian Creek? [In reply to]
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I am guessing this is your first trip to IC and you will want to do the big name super classic handcracks and whatnot.

If I remember 4 #2s and 4 #3s will get you up supercrack and let you feel really safe.

Incredible handcrack is more like 7 #2's and maybe a #1

There are many classics that you can climb on about 5 sets. In my opinion focus on the #1 to #3 sizes

This is all from memory of my first trip to the creek. I have been back for many trips, but I think that I would shoot for 5 or six sets of #1 to #3 and try to borrow the rest at the Creek.

I hope this helps-jake


blouderk2


Mar 20, 2006, 8:59 PM
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Re: Desired rack for Indian Creek? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I am guessing this is your first trip to IC and you will want to do the big name super classic handcracks and whatnot.

If I remember 4 #2s and 4 #3s will get you up supercrack and let you feel really safe.

Incredible handcrack is more like 7 #2's and maybe a #1

There are many classics that you can climb on about 5 sets. In my opinion focus on the #1 to #3 sizes

This is all from memory of my first trip to the creek. I have been back for many trips, but I think that I would shoot for 5 or six sets of #1 to #3 and try to borrow the rest at the Creek.

I hope this helps-jake

Thanks for the quick response, Seems like I really need to stack up on the #1, #2, #3.


climbingbums


Sep 9, 2006, 6:15 PM
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Re: Desired rack for Indian Creek? [In reply to]
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hexes


jaybro


Sep 9, 2006, 7:14 PM
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Re: Desired rack for Indian Creek? [In reply to]
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Well, I hope the Op went for it, last march. Anyone else, go! I had less when I first went there. Make friends, bum TR's, share gear. If it doesn't work for you you won't be back, if it does, you'll start a wish list.


redlegrangerone


Sep 11, 2006, 5:23 PM
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Re: Desired rack for Indian Creek? [In reply to]
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I made my first trip to Indian Creek this weekend. I need more cams. Between us, we had 8 number 1 camalots. Too bad the route needed 15. :lol:

Also, this was the first time I ever had a 1,2,3,4,5,and 6 camalot placed on the same route. :shock:


desertdude420


Feb 2, 2007, 7:46 PM
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Re: [redlegrangerone] Desired rack for Indian Creek? [In reply to]
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Leave all your passive gear at home if you plan on just cragging at the creek. That will give you more room for CAMS! Beg, borrow, or steal as many cams as you can get your gobied hands on....The creek eats them up!

P.S.- 70 meter ropes were invented for the creek.


deschamps1000


Feb 2, 2007, 8:13 PM
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Re: [blouderk2] Desired rack for Indian Creek? [In reply to]
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5 #4s
8 #3s
8 #2s
8 #1s
8 #.75
8 #.5
and some smaller stuff.


desertdude420


May 7, 2011, 10:44 PM
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Re: [deschamps1000] Desired rack for Indian Creek? [In reply to]
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deschamps1000 wrote:
5 #4s
8 #3s
8 #2s
8 #1s
8 #.75
8 #.5
and some smaller stuff.

^^Agreed.^^ And leave your passive pro at home.


johnwesely


May 8, 2011, 12:07 AM
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Re: [desertdude420] Desired rack for Indian Creek? [In reply to]
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desertdude420 wrote:
deschamps1000 wrote:
5 #4s
8 #3s
8 #2s
8 #1s
8 #.75
8 #.5
and some smaller stuff.

^^Agreed.^^ And leave your passive pro at home.

A timely response.


desertdude420


May 10, 2011, 3:53 PM
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Re: [johnwesely] Desired rack for Indian Creek? [In reply to]
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johnwesely wrote:
desertdude420 wrote:
deschamps1000 wrote:
5 #4s
8 #3s
8 #2s
8 #1s
8 #.75
8 #.5
and some smaller stuff.

^^Agreed.^^ And leave your passive pro at home.

A timely response.
What has changed? Gear lists do not have a "shelf life" btw. Posting to an older thread will keep someone from asking the same question again and again since searching reveals nothing current.
I have noticed that the same people that give shit for responding to old posts are the same ones that chastise people for not using the search function...


(This post was edited by desertdude420 on May 10, 2011, 4:00 PM)


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