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metoliusmunchkin
Aug 22, 2002, 4:37 AM
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Upon sifting through many of the threads created within the Gear Heads, I have noticed a great deal of similarities between them. Many of the topics concern who prefers which belay device, ect. Who prefers which belay device? It will be here where we will allow all those seeking such an answer (an answer for the preferable belay device), leading them to a safer environment and state of mind whilst purchase the belay device right for them.
Make no mistake. This topic will definitely not concern whither to purchase the belay devices from, yet more of which belay device does one prefer and why. The 'why' portion of the readers' answer is key, for it will greatly aid those who are new to the world of climbing, and wish to purchase a suitable belay device.
For beginner climbers, I definitely recommend the Petzl GriGri, simply because of its ease of use, and overall choice for most beginner climbers. Many prefer the ATC or BRD however. This will all be discussed subsequently.
What exactly is your weapon of choice? Is it the:
ATC Belay Device
Most commonly seen as:
available for only $16.95 from M-Gear. This particular model manufactured by Black Diamond.
Quote:Seen on more harnesses than any other belay device, the ATC serves as both belay and rappel device for single and double ropes. It's light and simple, won't kink the rope, and comes in a variety of anodized colours. Wt. 2oz.
BRD Belay Device
Most commonly seen as:
available for only $19.95 from M-Gear. This particular model is manufactured by Metolius.
Quote:This new belay/rappel device from Metolius is designed specifically for entry-level climbers. The innovative carabiner notch gives added friction requiring less hand pressure for catching falls. Works with single or double ropes (7 - 11mm).
Belay Plate (with spring - optional)
Most commonly seen as:
available for only $12.95 from M-Gear. This particular model is manufactured by Trango.
Quote:Sometimes overlooked as an "old school" belay device, it's still one of the lightest on the market. Two hole sizes for belaying with ropes of different diameters. Wt. 2 oz.
Figure Eight
Most commonly seen as:
available for only $10.95 from M-Gear. This particular model is manufactured by Trango.
Quote:Classic and traditional belay device.
GriGri
Most commonly seen as:
available for only $70.00 from M-Gear. this particular model is manufactured by Petzl.
Quote: Whether you're safeguarding a leader or climbing with partners of varying weights and size, the Grigri is an excellent tool. Falls are controlled with an integral lock system that locks smoothly and quickly into place under sudden force. The security system of the Grigri is ideal as a little extra protection. Wt. 8 oz.
Alright dudes and dudettes, it's your pick. Which one's it gonna be?
**Click on images to view distinct website.**
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joemor
Aug 22, 2002, 5:12 AM
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you forgot the petzl reverso..... its my choice, and it has so many other uses; ascender, auto lock, ability to bring up two seconds on auto lock mode, rappells and also works like an atc, with two levels of friction incase you have to catch heavier than normal loads. all for around the same price. its only slightly heavier than normal.... by a gram or two. im my oppinion i dont think the extra wieght outweighs the extra uses.
joe
[ This Message was edited by: joemor on 2002-08-21 22:13 ]
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philbox
Moderator
Aug 22, 2002, 5:31 AM
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My prefered choice of belay device is the Grigri. I`ve worked out ways to ensure perfect operation each and every time, no short roping the leader and I can always catch a fall.
The added bonus is that if I get donked on the head then the climber that I am belaying at least has half a chance to be kept on belay even if I am unconcious. Notice I am at pains to avoid using the dreaded 'auto locking' words.
...Phil...
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metoliusmunchkin
Aug 22, 2002, 5:38 AM
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Petzl Reverso
Most commonly seen as:
available for only $21.oo from Mountain Gear. This particular device manufactured of course by Petzl.
Quote:The Reverso is a belay device for the leader or second, for use with dynamic ropes. Attached to the belay loop of the harness, it works like a classic belay plate to belay a leader or second. Attached to the belay using the "self locking" attachment point, the self-locking belay mode may be used to belay one or two seconds. It may also be used to rappel, and for occasional rope climbing.
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pir8penguin
Aug 22, 2002, 1:42 PM
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Currently, my preffered belay device for belaying lead, top rope, or rappeling is the atc. It's very simple and effective, it's kind to my rope, and like it was described, it's very common.
Now, for belay from above, I prefer a reverso. Either in autoblock or in "high friction" catch mode, if i'm anchored in above somebody there's less friction in the syste, so I take harder pulls as a belayer. i'd like to have some assistance in staying locked off if for some reason an anchor shifts.
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atg200
Aug 22, 2002, 2:36 PM
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My favorite is the new Trango B52 - freakin awesome device. I also use a Gri-gri for aid climbing.
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joel_gibbel
Aug 22, 2002, 2:50 PM
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ATC because it's so simple, light weight, and can be used to rappel on a double rope (unlike the grigri). If I ever lose mine (or retire it) I'll probably replace it with a reverso though.
[ This Message was edited by: joel_gibbel on 2002-08-22 08:59 ]
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data118
Aug 22, 2002, 2:52 PM
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Trango Jaws-- Nice and smooth, provides good friction for lowering so you don't get rope burn.
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thrillseeker05
Aug 22, 2002, 3:14 PM
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The Reverso is by far the best belay device out today.
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marcel
Aug 22, 2002, 3:35 PM
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I have not tried the Reverso yet. Guess I'm going to have to get one. Hey but don't forget the Munter Hitch. It's easy, works great, is tested to be the most positive bealy and it only takes a binner.
[ This Message was edited by: marcel on 2002-08-22 08:38 ]
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mountainmonkey
Aug 22, 2002, 3:35 PM
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The Reverso is sweet. Many capabilities and the same performance of the other ATC-like devices with almost the same weight.
Check out this website to see to how to lower a second in the auto-locking mode:
http://www.usmga.net/guidelines/guidelinesreverso.htm
This can be a little complicated to do if you are unfamiliar to self rescue systems. In that case, you are probably better off just using the auto-locking mode if the climb is low angle or very easy.
The only complaint on such an awesome device is that mine is close to retirement and I have only had it for about 11 months. Don't get me wrong though; I feel have gotten my money's worth out of it (maybe I just climb too much). cheers
casey bernal
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josher
Aug 22, 2002, 3:47 PM
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I was dropped and sprung both ankles by a belayer who wasnt paying attention. I dont climb now without a gri-gri!!! Great tool
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spank_spank
Aug 22, 2002, 4:04 PM
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Trango Jaws
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dynomaster
Aug 22, 2002, 4:05 PM
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I've been using an eight, because that's what I started on, but I defentally think an ATC is better. I have not tried the Reverso or the new Trango, but I am considering getting one of the two. Which one is the question. They seem to do about the same thing, and cost about the same too. Has anyone tried both? Please let me know if anyone knows which is better.
Dyno On
Andy
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missedyno
Aug 22, 2002, 4:08 PM
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atc.
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rockhanger
Aug 22, 2002, 4:10 PM
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All these devices are good, however, my preference is the Omega SBGII. Sure the first one was a #$%%^$ on fat ropes, but this new one is soooo smmmooottthhh!. It also eliminates the jerky feeding,stopping and then unlocking the rope. When rapping or lowering you have more control than with the others.
I don't climb with anyone who relys on a Gri Gri. Most have learned to count on the device to do their jo for them. Too often I see their brakehand off the rope.
Just my opinion.
Rob
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tradklime
Aug 22, 2002, 4:10 PM
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I prefer the TRE. It has all the features afforded by autolocking devices and it can be used for rapelling and double ropes.
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jammer
Aug 22, 2002, 5:12 PM
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ATC is my choice. I have a Gri-Gri just in case something happens to the ATC.
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arete2
Aug 22, 2002, 5:43 PM
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I have an atc and I really like it. Do you really think that a gri gri is best for new climbers, it pretty much seems to teach that you dont have to pay attention, just to pull on the rope, Just what I think.
Arete
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arete2
Aug 22, 2002, 5:44 PM
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I have an atc and I really like it. Do you really think that a gri gri is best for new climbers, it pretty much seems to teach that you dont have to pay attention, just to pull on the rope, Just what I think.
Arete
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blindslap
Aug 22, 2002, 6:22 PM
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atc all the way. Simple to use, smooth and gives a nice rappel. Also don't forget that the gri-gri with its cam eliminates the dynamic belay thats given by many tube or plate designs. The gri-gri is great for sport, and big walls (with appropriate knowladge of it's uses and limitations) but for straight trad, its not a good idea.
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metoliusmunchkin
Aug 22, 2002, 9:50 PM
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Not to transform this thread into yet another (as they quite frankly frequent this site) GriGri vs. ATC discussion, yet I do find the GriGri to be safer than the ATC, and this is why: Using a GriGri, the belayer can actually fall asleep during their partners climb, and if a fall should occur during this unfortunate period of time, a ground fall from the climber would be prevented. If a belayer is to fall asleep using an ATC, there is a surefire ground fall to be taken if the climber should unfortunately "misplace his hands."
This is to say that the odds of a belayer actually falling asleep during their partners climb is in fact infinitesimal, however it is more to say that if one may not be paying attention to the climber, and happens to not keep both hands on the system at all times (proving the belayer firstly to be a death warrant), a GriGri would in this instance appear to be safer.
Personally I own both a Petzl GriGri (which I use most often) and the Trango Jaws, which quite resembles the structure of the ATC. Perhaps the only reason why I prefer the Jaws to the ATC is the featured "teeth" that find themselves on the device for an easier locking action: a feature that the ATC does not acquire.
Trango Jaws
Most commonly seen as:
available for only $19.95 from Mountain Gear. Manufactured of course by Trango.
Quote:The unique double V-notch of Jaws offers smooth feed and fast, secure lock-offs. Ideal for any diameter rope, the notches will catch an 8mm rope as well as the 11mm. By turning the device around, you can vary the speed of rappel for overhangs or slabs. Works the same with single or double ropes.
Click on image for details...
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calds
Aug 22, 2002, 10:51 PM
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I usually use the reverso as of lately, I think it runs a bit smoother then the atc. But I always carry an atc for back up.
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mtnjohn
Aug 22, 2002, 11:13 PM
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I guess I am the last person to still use a figure eight! old habits i suppose
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wonderbread
Aug 22, 2002, 11:24 PM
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the petzl gri-gri, it's fool proof.
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