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Slings, Slings and more slings
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mugnyte


Aug 23, 2002, 3:19 PM
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Registered: Jun 8, 2002
Posts: 78

Slings, Slings and more slings  (North_America: United_States: Oregon: Portland_Metro_Area: Beacon_Rock)
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The hangers on the Beacon South face are about 1.5 inches. With the more popular routes, rapping down means leaving a sling on the hangers.

But...when climbing up and setting anchors (esp. on multi-pitch/multi-person days) these anchors are choked with dead slings. Common problem for anyplace, but Beacon seems to be immune to people doing 1 thing:

Untie the old slings and bag 'em out. Nobody wants to lose the whole rock access because an idiot trusted rotted webbing, and clipping into the hangers is tough enough with all that crap.

Now I don't condone slash everything with a knife, but untying grapevine and tape knots isn't impossible. Simply when waiting for a 2nd to rope up, I cleared each anchor last time of a good 3-4 slings, some quite marginal.

Throwing my 0.02 in.

mug


abalch


Mar 19, 2004, 12:11 AM
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Registered: Jul 11, 2003
Posts: 179

more about slings [In reply to]
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Also, please when you sling the anchors, use something that at least slightly resembles the shade of the rock. These neon orange or yellow webbing may be helpful to find things in the dark, but they really are unsightly on the rock.

Just my two (s)cents


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