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bluenose
Apr 27, 2006, 2:00 AM
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I was trying on helmets the other day and I noticed that they are all setup for protection from impact of falling stuff (Could be anything, got nailed by a rogue biner the other day, hence, the helmet search). I also see some soapboxing about wearing a helmet to protect your head in the case of a fall.
Judging by the designs, they don't look like they do much good in a fall situation. Some reports would suggest they do but are there any that are actually rated or tested for climber falling impacts?
I'm getting one anyway, but thought I would ask.
BTW, I assume that comfortable fit is number one priority as most helmets pretty much perform the same... right?
Jeff.
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omegaprime
Apr 27, 2006, 2:28 AM
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Try doing a search if you haven't yet. I think it was recently a thread discussing the standards climbing helmets adhere to and what it actually means.
I'd give the link, but then won't be much fun for you, right? :wink:
Edit: What the heck... I'm feel like being nice today. Check out
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=110957&postdays=0&postorder=asc&topic_view=&start=0
especially the first post by brutusofwyde. That should get you started on your quest for helmet standards enlightment. :D
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climbingaggie03
Apr 27, 2006, 3:10 AM
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IF worn correctly, most helmets will protect your head from a swinging impact. However, if you wear your helmet back on your head leaving your forehead exposed, it's not really the helmets fault that it wasn't covering the part that smacked the wall.
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bluenose
Apr 27, 2006, 12:56 PM
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Hrmph! That was a pretty recent thread too...how'd I miss it? :?
Thanks.
Jeff.
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bluenose
Apr 27, 2006, 1:29 PM
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Upon doing a proper search :roll: (google, not on RC.com specifically) I found a mag's review of some helmets. The Kong Scarab looks to be the best of the lot...generally speaking if you don't mind the price.
Kong Scarab
Under the review they have links to other helmet reviews.
Jeff.
EDIT-the damn link will only go to the home page, if interested just click on equipment reviews, helmet reviews are the sixth one down.
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krusher4
Apr 27, 2006, 3:06 PM
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In reply to: IF worn correctly, most helmets will protect your head from a swinging impact. However, if you wear your helmet back on your head leaving your forehead exposed, it's not really the helmets fault that it wasn't covering the part that smacked the wall.
I agree, you must wear it correctly, I have had a helmet save my head many times from falls, for me these situations happen more then falling objects. Also keep in mind that after a large impact you should probably get a new one.
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schveety
Apr 27, 2006, 3:08 PM
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I don't know if this is true, but I heard that one of BD's new helmets is designed to take an impact from swinging or falling. I took a look at it in the store, and I remember it looked a lot like a bike helmet (kind of like Petzl's helmets, which I personally don't like because they're tiny), as it was filled with the foam similar to that for bike helmet. Don't know if this helps, but I remember hearing that somewhere...........damn, I'm having memory loss already at the age of 24.....
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fenix83
Moderator
Apr 27, 2006, 3:38 PM
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For the other half of your question, WEARABILITY IS THE NUMBER ONE FACTOR (amnogst rated helmets, of course)...
If it is not comfortable you will not wear it, at least not for long.
-F
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bluenose
Apr 27, 2006, 3:50 PM
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That was what I figured. I tried all of them on at the store and came down to one. It happened to be almost the cheapest as well, Edelrid Ultralight, white or blue. I think it is the dorkiest looking too but I really don't care...I don't climb for style points.
Jeff.
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fernregan
Apr 27, 2006, 4:29 PM
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#1 Rule of Lead Climbing
Where a helmet
The Petzyl Ecrin Roc is not rated for side hits, but it saved my melon big time. I took an upside down 30 footer, when my head smacked against the rock, I cracked both the helmet and my skull. Had it not been for the ecrin roc (rated for things falling on your head) I'd have lost more than just my sense of smell (anosmia due to traumatic brain injury -- look it up). Thanks Petzyl, they replaced the cracked one with a new one (helmet not head).
Happy Climbing.
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sspssp
Apr 27, 2006, 5:36 PM
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The most important is getting a helmet your will wear. Comfort definitely and looks, if that affects whether you will wear it.
I do plenty of multi-pitch, warm weather climbing. So I go with the lightest, best ventilated helmet that I can find in white (I have no desire for a sun baking dark blue or dard red, but for those that like the looks, more power to you).
There are some new, light weight models just this year.
If you are going to use it for multi-pitch, you might want to consider getting one that has clips to attach a headlamp. And getting one that has a quick adjust wheel. The wheel is nice if you want to be able to quickly adjust the helmet so you can wear it with or without a warm cap.
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jimdavis
Apr 28, 2006, 9:16 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: IF worn correctly, most helmets will protect your head from a swinging impact. However, if you wear your helmet back on your head leaving your forehead exposed, it's not really the helmets fault that it wasn't covering the part that smacked the wall. Take a helmet like the Petzl Elios or the BD Halfdome, place it sideways on the ground and press - you will see you much protection against side impact a climbing helmet offers. :shock: Still way better than nothing, but not exactly what I would hope for when thinking of a side impact. You'd probably have to wear a proper motorcylce helmet for this kind of "application".
The HB Dyneema is even worse.. I can flex that thing 3 inches with my thumb and ring finger.
But, for ice climbing with tools and ice coming at my head...there's nothing better.
Cheers,
Jim
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caughtinside
Apr 28, 2006, 9:23 PM
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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In reply to: #1 Rule of Lead Climbing Where a helmet
Where's my helmut? :lol:
Just joshin ya. But wearing a helmet sure ain't the first rule of lead climbing.
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