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bellaitalia
Apr 27, 2006, 9:47 AM
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Spring break arrived and clearly the only logical choice was to climb somewhere warm. We decided on a road trip to Croatia, ending in Paklenica, a national park on the coast.
We arrived in Paklenica on Saturday where we were promptly introduced to the entire valley, since Filippo, an Italian climber otherwise known as the Spandex King, knew almost everybody. I still haven't gotten the names straight yet. After an afternoon of sport climbing, we were introduced to the joys of Dinko's.....truly there are no words to describe it! Fresh fish, prawns, white wine.....
On Sunday, Luca and Pietro, two other Italians but of the non-spandex variety, went off to climb some little 6c+ multi-pitch route called Klin. We didn't want to make them feel bad about how easy their route was, so the rest of us went off to climb two routes, one 4c and one 5b(just to make the others feel good, of course!) The routes were super-crowded and I managed to create several impressive tangles with my new double ropes, but we all made it down safely and had a great day. Spider managed to convince us that it was a good idea to go swimming in the ocean. Fortunately we were able to cure our hypothermia with yet another meal at Dinko's.
Monday was an epic day. We set out in a group of six to climb all the way up Anica Kuk, the most famous face in the valley. Each pitch was more beautiful than the last. The crux pitch was a 5b vertical crack, which nearly caused me to be thankful for my black pants at least 4 times, and I wasn't even leading. Conclusion drawn from that pitch is that I have absolutely no idea how to jam. The easy pitches were made much more interesting with extreme exposure, including a scary traverse with 150m of air below us. The last pair topped out at 7:15 in time to see the sun beginning to set through a natural arch of rock. We had an interesting hike out trying to be the sunset. Exhausted, but extremely happy we sat down to yet another stint of trying to keep Filippo and Spider from eating ALL of the fish and prawns at Dinko's.
We were devastated to pack up and drive back to Milan. I deliberately did not change my Croatian kuna into euro, because clearly a return trip will be necessary!!!
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heiko
Apr 27, 2006, 9:52 AM
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Registered: Mar 3, 2005
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Awesome awesome awesome. Post some of the scenery pics, they're beautiful. :)
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booger
Apr 27, 2006, 10:47 AM
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Very nice Sarah!
Hey, you should be grateful that Fillippo wore any pants at all, especially considering the memorable panties we saw in Arco...
:lol: :lol:
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heiko
Apr 27, 2006, 10:55 AM
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yeah, they merely covered his BEHIND :lol:
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solo
Apr 27, 2006, 12:46 PM
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Registered: Feb 12, 2003
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Paklenica is awsome, especially Anica Kuk. What was the name of the multipitch route you climbed? At first I thought it could by Mosoraski, but the crux there is different. Maybe Kaca?
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ninja_climber
Apr 27, 2006, 2:22 PM
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Awsome! I'm hopping to try Anica Kuk this summer...somewhere around August. Last time I was there I watched an Italian guy climb the 9a(I think 9 something) It was amazing...I still don't get what they climb, the rock looks like asphalt...
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overlord
Apr 27, 2006, 4:17 PM
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In reply to: Awsome! I'm hopping to try Anica Kuk this summer...somewhere around August. Last time I was there I watched an Italian guy climb the 9a(I think 9 something) It was amazing...I still don't get what they climb, the rock looks like asphalt...
im pretty sure there are no 9as in paklenica. he was more likely climbing a IXsomethingUIAA which is around .12c or 7c depending on the +/-.
anyway, nice TR. and do post some pics.
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ninja_climber
Apr 27, 2006, 6:05 PM
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One of friends just got back from Paklenica his weekend. I'm pretty sure there is a 13d or 14a there. I think its only 1 pitch though. TC post some pics.
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bellaitalia
Apr 27, 2006, 6:40 PM
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I believe there's an 8b+, which Manolo opened in Klanci, which is the sector with most of the sport routes. I think it's only been repeated once.
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ninja_climber
Apr 28, 2006, 4:43 PM
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^Thats it...figured the Italian guy would know about the Italian guy who climbed it lol...
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bellaitalia
Apr 28, 2006, 8:17 PM
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The "Italian guy" is actually an American girl. :D I live in Italy though, hence the nickname.
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miademus
Apr 29, 2006, 3:16 AM
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croatia is though cool, have fun bella. 8^)
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paolo75
May 12, 2006, 12:15 PM
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In reply to: I believe there's an 8b+, which Manolo opened in Klanci, which is the sector with most of the sport routes. I think it's only been repeated once.
Yup, the route is called "Il Maratoneta".
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dawid72
May 12, 2006, 1:02 PM
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Registered: Mar 13, 2006
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It is an outstanding location...
There is just one thing I can not resist to ask - which ocean was it?
(Those Americans and their geography knowledge... :wink: )
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paolo75
May 12, 2006, 1:33 PM
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In reply to: It is an outstanding location... There is just one thing I can not resist to ask - which ocean was it? (Those Americans and their geography knowledge... :wink: )
Adriatic Sea. :wink:
Ciao
P.
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