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pumpkins
Apr 28, 2006, 6:18 PM
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Im going to be leading in a couple of weeks at Fosters but i've never had to set up a TR anchor or clean the route by lowering off. Ive seen in posts on the board how to set up a TR anchor respectively, but ive never had to acutally do it myself, what would be the easiest yet safest way to do this?
And what would be the best way after to clean the gear off?
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caughtinside
Apr 28, 2006, 6:32 PM
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whoa.
Your question is difficult to understand.
But here's the simplest and best way to build an anchor on two bolts: use two quickdraws. Make sure the rope biners are opposite and opposed.
Don't hurt yourself.
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stonefree
Apr 28, 2006, 6:34 PM
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Good God! Please don't lead these climbs. You could die if you get to the top and can't make it back down. You need to get hands on instruction from somebody to help you with this and the rest of your learning process in climbing.
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cactusedd
Apr 28, 2006, 6:53 PM
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Jeez... :shock:
Not exactly the most promising question to post. While I suppose it could be explained how to set up an anchor system in this format, the bottom line is you're just asking to get hurt and/or deck. If you're dead set on doing this, though, get a book like, I don't know, How to Rock Climb or Climbing Anchors come to mind, or an equivalent title and follow the step by step instructions and illustrations on the ground until you've got the process wired.
Be Safe,
Edd
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rockguide
Apr 28, 2006, 7:02 PM
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There are two ways to do this. I have included numbered steps for each.\
Option A.
1) Take a course with an accredited instructor.
2) Do what they teach you.
Option B
1) Go climbing with an individual who has been doing this for a long time in a variety of locations.
2) Have them show you and practice on the ground.
3) Do what they teach you.
Have Fun!
Brian
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bill413
Apr 28, 2006, 7:05 PM
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^^^ trophy.
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bill413
Apr 28, 2006, 7:10 PM
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Seriously. The thought of someone "leading" who does not know how to build an anchor is freightening.
I know there are folks that advocate for people to begin leading their first day of climbing, and that people can lead bolted routes without knowing how to place gear. However, understanding how anchor systems work, being able to judge what is and what is not a safe anchor are essential to protecting yourselve as a leader, and protecting the rest of your party.
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redlegrangerone
Apr 28, 2006, 7:32 PM
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Being a relative noob myself, I can still remember the fear I had the first time I had to clean an anchor, much less build it. I learned two ways. From my friends with more experience than I, who have been climbing many years. And secondly, I hired a guide for a day and we spent the day doing nothing but building anchors. In my opinion, it was worth every penny it cost me.
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kman
Apr 28, 2006, 7:35 PM
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In reply to: whoa. Your question is difficult to understand. But here's the simplest and best way to build an anchor on two bolts: use two quickdraws. Make sure the rope biners are opposite and opposed. Don't hurt yourself.
This method is not always ideal.
Learn from some one in person.
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krusher4
Apr 28, 2006, 7:36 PM
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In reply to: There are two ways to do this. I have included numbered steps for each.\ Option A. 1) Take a course with an accredited instructor. 2) Do what they teach you. Option B 1) Go climbing with an individual who has been doing this for a long time in a variety of locations. 2) Have them show you and practice on the ground. 3) Do what they teach you. I think this is the way to go. Don't die climbing. Have Fun! Brian |
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reg
Apr 28, 2006, 7:44 PM
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i precieve by your previous post that bouldering is your main climbing thing. a transition from that to sport leading without requset knowledge will get you killed or worst! let me add my 2cents:
In reply to: Im going to be leading in a couple of weeks at Fosters but i've never had to set up a TR anchor or clean the route by lowering off.
see what i mean - TR setups are basic knowledge. sure it looks easy and to some one with that knowledge - it is.
In reply to: with the two anchor bolts, you use two locking biners, each oppostiley faced from eachother, you run your cord. through those but what type of knot do you use?
you've lead a sport route and your at the chains, shuts, anchors - whatever and your askin "what kind of knot to use"! ]STOP you may die or worst!
In reply to: you use 2 more ovals or maybe another locker in that loop? opposite and reveresed?
????
In reply to: anyone have a picture of this setup, ive seen some around here with just one biner holding the rope but i want this thing bomber...
never use one biner on a TR - ok?
In reply to: as for lowering off, im in the dark??? please help... pics would be great
STOP you going to die or worst - pic's?
get some instruction - plz 8^)
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pumpkins
Apr 28, 2006, 7:56 PM
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yeah all i do is boulder mainly, but ive done some sport just never the anchor part.... im going with ppl who know how to build TR anchors but im not sure they can climb at the same level i can so i guess i'll either be forced to climb at there level or worse have to TR all the good stuff, this sucks
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jimdavis
Apr 28, 2006, 7:58 PM
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In reply to: Im going to be leading in a couple of weeks at Fosters but i've never had to set up a TR anchor or clean the route by lowering off. Ive seen in posts on the board how to set up a TR anchor respectively, but i have a few questions. with the two anchor bolts, you use two locking biners, each oppostiley faced from eachother, you run your cord. through those but what type of knot do you use? you use 2 more ovals or maybe another locker in that loop? opposite and reveresed? anyone have a picture of this setup, ive seen some around here with just one biner holding the rope but i want this thing bomber... as for lowering off, im in the dark??? please help... pics would be great
Scrap the trip, or hire a guide.
Otherwise, put a large blue tarp down at the base of the cliff to make the cleanup easy for the rescue/ recovery crew. Might wanna write a will before you tie in, too.
This isn't like frisbee...slow things down, and be sure of your skills before you put yourself in a situation where you could hit the ground.
Jim
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chrisparedes
Apr 28, 2006, 7:59 PM
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This question has been answered a million times so just do a search. But, if you don't have a good understanding as to what you need to do to safely lower off a sport route, I recommend picking up a book. This may help however despite the poor picture quality.
http://www.geocities.com/yosemite/4755/climbing/misc/loweroff.html
Now, understand that not all anchors are the same. You will encounter chains, shuts, and questionable bolt anchors so use your best judgement and make sure you are REDUNDANT meaning if a piece of gear or anchor fails, although you might take a normal to longer than normal lead fall, you will still be safe. This means that even when you untie you original figure 8, you should still have an 8 on a bite clipped with a locker to your harness. Make sure where ever you clip it that it is rated at full strength.
Good luck, safe climbing.
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andrewbanandrew
Apr 28, 2006, 8:12 PM
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To add fuel to the fire, the first time I learned how to clean an anchor I had only read some books. I figured it out when I got to the top, but only after a really long, slow, process.
If you do just jump in, just remember to think ahead about the consequences of your actions.
I have seen people who are just learning drop ropes, attempt to unanchor themselves while not tied in (!!), etc.
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markc
Apr 28, 2006, 8:12 PM
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In reply to: Jeez... :shock: Not exactly the most promising question to post. While I suppose it could be explained how to set up an anchor system in this format, the bottom line is you're just asking to get hurt and/or deck. If you're dead set on doing this, though, get a book like, I don't know, How to Rock Climb or Climbing Anchors come to mind, or an equivalent title and follow the step by step instructions and illustrations on the ground until you've got the process wired.
Respectfully, Climbing Anchors (at least the current edition) won't do much good in preparing for sport climbing. It deals primarily with gear anchors, not bolts.
While building and breaking down top anchors isn't difficult, it has to be done correctly. Truth be told, breaking down and lowering/rappelling should be a bigger concern than the initial rigging (due to the usual need to untie from the rope, the number of steps, etc). One thing is certain: you don't want to be at the top of a sport route, far away from your equally ignorant partner, trying to recall what some faceless jerk in the internet told you.
2¢,
mark
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xtrmecat
Apr 28, 2006, 8:13 PM
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For god's sake do not lead this or any other route. The internet is not a place to learn to climb. Maybe how to pick up a tip or two, but not Gumby climbing 101. If you have to ask then it is above your ability to do safely. This is not a bad thing, just an education and practice issue.
Does not matter if you can climb at 3 or 4 grades higher, just not a good enough excuse to die in front of your partners. Climbing is a pastime, a hobby, or even a passion and a life changing venture, but not a thing to be involving ego, experiments, or showing off. Just isn't worth it.
I have climbed for a while and still hire a guide now and then when logistics just do not allow me to safely get where I want to go. No shame in it and It has always been a rewarding and educational experience.
FWIIW
Bob
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kman
Apr 28, 2006, 8:29 PM
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In reply to: You will encounter chains, shuts, and questionable bolt anchors so use your best judgement and make sure you are REDUNDANT meaning if a piece of gear or anchor fails, although you might take a normal to longer than normal lead fall, you will still be safe. This means that even when you untie you original figure 8, you should still have an 8 on a bite clipped with a locker to your harness. Make sure where ever you clip it that it is rated at full strength
:roll: Way to give not enough info.
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cutty
Apr 28, 2006, 8:36 PM
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In reply to: yeah all i do is boulder mainly, but ive done some sport just never the anchor part.... im going with ppl who know how to build TR anchors but im not sure they can climb at the same level i can so i guess i'll either be forced to climb at there level or worse have to TR all the good stuff, this sucks
I'm not trying to be offensive here, but you don't seem to be able to express your questions in a coherent and comprehensible way. That's not going to make anyone confident that you're able to understand the responses you get. What everyone else has already said is right. You're not going to learn the safe way to do this here.
It's not rocket science, but if you screw up, you die, or maybe you kill someone else. Either way you ruin a whole lot of people's days or lives.
Get qualified instruction. That problable means hire a guide, or take a course. You could learn from a friend, or talk someone you know from the gym into showing you how, but you'd better hope that they're truly qualified to show you.
If you're not going to do that for whatever reason, then go buy some books and read them. Then read them again. Once you're done that you can find a tree branch or a railing that you can climb up to, and run through the whole process while you're only a few feet off the ground. If you don't screw up and fall off and sprain your ankle, then get back up there and do it again. And after all that be aware that there's probably any number of gotcha's that you have no idea about that can and will kill you because a tree branch is not the same thing as whatever you'll encounter out climbing.
It's your life, and you can do whatever you want with it, including risk it needlessly. But please, please, please don't go do it at the crag where your reckless mistakes will rain on everyone else's parade. That's stupid and selfish.
Stay safe and live to climb another day.
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markc
Apr 28, 2006, 9:02 PM
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In reply to: yeah all i do is boulder mainly, but ive done some sport just never the anchor part.... im going with ppl who know how to build TR anchors but im not sure they can climb at the same level i can so i guess i'll either be forced to climb at there level or worse have to TR all the good stuff, this sucks
Getting in a day on the rock doesn't suck. It certainly doesn't suck as much as putting yourself out for the season (or worse) due to a fall from the anchors.
This sounded like a troll to start, and is only getting worse. If you're going with people that have anchor-building experience, why not learn from them? Take time to learn (and demonstrate) your new-found knowledge on easier sport routes, then bump up the grade.
Also, how can you have been sport climbing, and still not have a clue about anchoring or cleaning gear? Unless all of your experience is in the gym, you should have at least witnessed this process from a distance.
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tradrenn
Apr 28, 2006, 9:43 PM
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In reply to: And what would be the best way after to clean the gear off?
If you have to ask question like this, you are not ready to lead.
Listen to others advise.
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codhands
Apr 28, 2006, 9:55 PM
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Sorry Pumpkin-
There once was a fella named Pumpkin,
when he got to the anchors they stumped him.
See the knots that he knew, were to far and to few,
and so gravity decided to dump him.
Get help.
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doogle
Apr 28, 2006, 10:42 PM
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In reply to: Sorry Pumpkin- There once was a fella named Pumpkin, when he got to the anchors they stumped him. See the knots that he knew, were too far and too few, and so gravity decided to dump him. Get help.
We have a winner!
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rockguide
Apr 28, 2006, 11:24 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Sorry Pumpkin- There once was a fella named Pumpkin, when he got to the anchors they stumped him. See the knots that he knew, were too far and too few, and so gravity decided to dump him. Get help. We have a winner!
Yes indeedy! :lol:
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katalyzt
Apr 28, 2006, 11:46 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Sorry Pumpkin- There once was a fella named Pumpkin, when he got to the anchors they stumped him. See the knots that he knew, were too far and too few, and so gravity decided to dump him. Get help. We have a winner! Yes indeedy! :lol:
rofl somebody has to much time on their hands.
Listen to everybodies advice, plus buy the book "Mountaineriing: Freedom of the Hills". I just got it and I think it's going to be my new bible. I definatly agree with the practice on a tree idea.
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