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shoes, how tight is too tight?
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vegastradguy


May 11, 2006, 6:34 AM
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Re: shoes, how tight is too tight? [In reply to]
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There are some hard sport and bouldering things I've done where in it has been absolutely essential for me to use painful shoes.

maybe you should work on your footwork.....

shoes should not hurt you. read curt's first post- the best advice in the thread so far.


dirtineye


May 11, 2006, 8:51 AM
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Utter s---..... :roll:

Curt

now Curt, go easy, he just made a little mistake.

I'm sure that what he meant to say was," The more they hurt, the harder it will be for you to climb.".

Hey now, give me a break. That's mostly in bouldering I guess, but it rings true for many people I climb with.

Don't be bitter. :D

No. Not in bouldering either.

Curt

OK, OK, you were right the first time baldy. Let the fool have it both barrels.


dudemanbu


May 11, 2006, 12:26 PM
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Re: shoes, how tight is too tight? [In reply to]
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You want a balance between performance and comfort. My 5.10 zlippers are the best i've seen as far as this goes. I have them sized so that my toes are slightly curled. Intentionally curl your toes slightly without a shoe on. This is how my shoes fit. They work amazingly.


ninja_climber


May 11, 2006, 1:35 PM
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If you get Mad Rocks's shoes make sure you go down 2 numbers..those thinbgs stretch like crazy...


tradmanclimbs


May 11, 2006, 1:39 PM
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Actually your shoes should not hurt at all. Unfourtunatly that is often not the case due to the shape of the shoe not allways conforming to the shape of your foot. rock shoes sould fit snugly and comfortable just like a fine pair of leather driveing gloves. If your feet hurt and you lose feeling in your toes your footwork suffers significantly.


robbovius


May 11, 2006, 2:09 PM
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rock shoes sould fit snugly and comfortable just like a fine pair of leather driveing gloves. .

yes, I use the glove analogy often, describing the fit of climbing shoes. THink of climbing shoes as specialized gloves, and not so much as shoes, and you'll not go far wrong.

to the OP:

to reiterate other replies, your shoes should be snug, not quite to the point of discomfort. it is imperative that you try the shoes on in a store, and bend your feet around to evalutate how they'll feel in diferent situations,. this can be as simply as standing on your tip-toes, or doing heel raises of the bars on the bottom of the shoe rack.

all brands have differnt fit/sizing characteristics

For example, I have two pairs of Mad Rocks - Flash, and Pheonix - and one pair of Quechua Vuarde sports. The Flash shoes are in my street size (US Mens 10.5), and the Pheonix are one half size down. The Vuardes are in 8.5 size. al three paris are sized to be snug, though because of differences in toe-box shape (getting back to your initial concerns) the Pheonix are the most comfortable for all day wear, as the toe box is rounded, as opposed to pointed like the Flash and Vuarde shoes.


taydude


May 26, 2006, 10:57 AM
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biggest thing you need for shoes is that your toes are down turned. Perfect situation is when your big toe's last knuckle is perpendicular to your foot or very close. When your toes are bent your foot becomes a hard precise tool that you can place on edges and not have to concentrate on. If the shoe is too loose and your toes are flat, when you step on edges your toes bend upward. At this point you've gone from edging to smearing. If you can achieve a down-turned toe w/o painful shoes, more power to ya.

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