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iceisnice
May 29, 2006, 2:46 PM
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anyone got any info on this route. particularly the "bird shit" pitch. recently did journey home and want to link highway 61 with journey home. looks like some great climbing.
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bobd1953
May 29, 2006, 2:49 PM
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I think it goes free at "sandbag" 12a/b. Check out the topo's at the North Rim ranger station.
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iceisnice
May 29, 2006, 2:53 PM
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really? i'm looking at the guidebook and it says its a 5.10+ but there is a pitch that sports a lot of bird shit and i was wondering if it is still the same. are we talking about the same route?
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flamer
May 29, 2006, 5:26 PM
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Word is that it has ALOT of Birdshit. Supposedly Jared Ogden and partner tried it last year...and the BS was so bad that his partner was puking. Serious ammonia.
josh
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bobd1953
May 29, 2006, 6:15 PM
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I was thinking of the Dylan Wall.
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sherpajames
May 30, 2006, 1:31 AM
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Hey, let me put the climb like this. My freind and I climbed Highway last year. For a month after all we wanted to do was go back clean a little shit from the forth pitch, and put a owl there to scare the birds away. I loved it, but I have a screw lose so... If you want a run down pm me. I did have to push shit off of a key foot hold with my hand.
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iceisnice
May 30, 2006, 1:37 AM
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james, so i'm assuming it was much worse than the guano pitch on the north face of the grand teton? hehe. i'm looking at doing the southern arete and scenic cruise (should turn out better this time) this fall if you are interested.
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iceisnice
May 30, 2006, 1:44 AM
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since i've got the attention of some black canyon fans here.......what do some of ya think of monkey and the engineer? i'm going back there in a couple of weeks and trying to decide what to do next.
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cologman
May 30, 2006, 3:46 AM
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If you are looking to step it up a bit from Journey Home. Look at Moveable-Stone-Voyage. A bit sandbagged at .10- since there is an .11- pitch if you don't A0 it and the .10 climbing is probably solid .10. That said it stays in the shade for the most part if you start early. Easier than Scenic Crusise though as there isn't as much sustained climbing. Good route and a definite Canyon must do for Blackies and it is a river to rim route. If you haven't done Tourist Route it is another frequently overlooked route and a river to rim route.
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iceisnice
May 30, 2006, 12:53 PM
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cologman, thanks. actually, we were looking at Moveable-Stoned-Voyage that last time i was there. guess i should get on it afterall. I've also wondered at the Tourist route. I looked at it from the other rim and it looked like a really cool line. Just hadn't heard from anyone who actually climbed it. Thanks a bunch.
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rockrat_co
May 30, 2006, 2:48 PM
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In reply to: I think it goes free at "sandbag" 12a/b. Check out the topo's at the North Rim ranger station.
- OK I know that this is a pretty stupid question, but what does "sandbag" entail about the grade? Harder? Easier? just curious because Ive never seen it used as such!! -
Thanks!!!
rockrat_co
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iceisnice
May 30, 2006, 3:49 PM
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is anyone gonna be in the black this thurs-sat (1st-3rd)? looks like another patner is bailing on me. got several routes i wanna do. it doesn't have to be anything too intense if you have never been there before. i can do most (if not all) the leading. just need someone willing to make the descent and get baked in the sun for a couple of days (although it is possible to play the shade game).
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iceisnice
May 30, 2006, 3:57 PM
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anyone know if you can do the Sex Comedy finish from Musical Partners?
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cologman
May 31, 2006, 4:45 AM
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I haven't done Musical Partners but it is about the only finsih availabe in that section of the wall without going up the Leisure climb gully/chimney. So I'm guessing thats the name of the game.
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