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ddonally
Jun 10, 2006, 4:36 AM
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Registered: Apr 13, 2005
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A sad day at Dishman Rocks. Three classic are now gone. The loose flake that was once the first glorious moves of Rock Star, Rock 106, and Klingon are now nothing more than a great place to put the keg. I wonder what happenned. I guess it does not matter now. Climb on. Is it time to modify the posted selection of routes? What is the new route? I say we glue the flake back on and forget this ever happenned! I just can't let go.
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tisakson
Mar 22, 2007, 5:54 PM
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Registered: Jun 14, 2005
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Yep, one day it was there and a couple days later, it was gone....I heard it came off at night, thank God. Must of been the seeping water. Sad...but lucky noone was killed.
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roadstead
May 21, 2007, 4:23 PM
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Registered: Apr 17, 2004
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tisakson wrote: Yep, one day it was there and a couple days later, it was gone....I heard it came off at night, thank God. Must of been the seeping water. Sad...but lucky noone was killed.
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tisakson
May 22, 2007, 11:09 PM
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Registered: Jun 14, 2005
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roadstead wrote: tisakson wrote: Yep, one day it was there and a couple days later, it was gone....I heard it came off at night, thank God. Must of been the seeping water. Sad...but lucky noone was killed. I think we all know what happen... it was not at night and it was not seeping water!
Yea, probably wasn't the seeping water. Great climbing ethics.
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lithophiliac
Jul 20, 2007, 6:03 AM
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Registered: Feb 9, 2005
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Yeah, what a bunch of crap that was. That angle iron was enough to hold it on for centuries  !
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Crawdaddy
Sep 14, 2007, 4:38 AM
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Registered: Sep 9, 2007
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In any case, the flake's fallen. It's scary to see how little contact surface the flake had. I'm glad I never loaded a cam under it.
Now the start of Klingon is much harder. It's way cool--not the same--but still way cool.
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tuna
Sep 14, 2007, 11:03 AM
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Registered: Mar 28, 2004
Posts: 188
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Maybe these guys made a plane/road trip.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/videos/Misc/Route_Development_412.html
ciao
Santana
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ddonally
Sep 15, 2007, 5:19 AM
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Registered: Apr 13, 2005
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So what about the new routes? I belayed Wayne last fall when he bolted and sent the new lower third of Rock Star. He said 5.11C; as did Eric L. (2nd). I have heard that the other 2 routes to the right have been sent. I would love to know what sort of name the routes would like to be called. At the rate that the wall is developing water leaks, maybe the names of the new routes should be related to the Titanic in some way. Are the senders/setters interested in tagging the routes with names? Or do they keep the same names as before? Why do I care? I wish I knew. I guess I'm in love with this butt crack of a climbing venue.
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