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rjtrials
Jul 15, 2006, 5:49 PM
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I was hoping someone who is a little more familiar with climbing in the Bunkers can help me out on a route's name/grade....
The route starts on Darkie/Eclipse but cuts strong left just before the first roof (doubled perma-draw). The route continues up between Eclipse and Big Empty and joins Eclipse at the big rail.
The line looks really cool and pretty hard. The holds seem to be much smaller than those on either Darkie or Eclipse and the moves look to be pretty big.
Thanks in advance for any info.
RJ
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Lighterknot
Jun 15, 2007, 5:10 PM
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Fire in the Hole -- 14b
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rjtrials
Sep 26, 2007, 1:22 PM
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I think its a bit closer to 13d - ish...
RJ
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CinnamonJohnson
Sep 26, 2007, 2:37 PM
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Does anybody know how many ascents this rig has had? Did somebody d it in the g? Bring on some more details...
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hsvclimber
Sep 26, 2007, 3:02 PM
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Traylor has done it and in an issue of Urban Climber there was an artical on Jeremy Pou and it said he had done it. I think UC mag had it at 14a or b can't remember, I'll see if I can find it tonight. Don't know if Kottcamp and Seirzant have done it. So two ascents maybe more. I've heard most do it with bolts preclipped at the crux and don't actually clip a bolt until the jug below the rail on Eclipse. I would think a link up of this start and the finish of After Dark would be harder. Don't know if that link up has been done or not.
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CinnamonJohnson
Sep 26, 2007, 5:09 PM
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Has Blake Rast done it yet? I heard that guy is like the next Sasha Digiulian!
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hsvclimber
Sep 26, 2007, 5:21 PM
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Haven't talked to Blake in a few months. Last I had spoken with him no. He has however done all the routes at Concave at Little River Canyon except for "The Man Show" and "Southern Comfort", He's working Man Show. He and Tim Diegman have done most of the classic 13's in the Canyon (and in the Southeast) over the past year.
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rjtrials
Sep 27, 2007, 5:02 PM
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The line was bolted by Jerry Roberts 'back in the day.' It was first climbed by Traylor (with the second draw pre-clipped). He mentioned that since the ascent wasnt 'ground up' it was invalid and the line was 'easy.'
Jeremy Pou did the line next, once again with two pre-clipped. Travis Gault quickly repeated the line. Both felt it was in the 14a range.
This spring, Sam Davis nearly sent clipping all the draws. Since he was leaving town, and didnt want to leave the line 'undone' he hiked it with the second pre-clipped. I belayed Sam on the send, and asked how hard he felt it was. He said the boulder problem felt about as hard as Slider, but would give the route a 13c grade...
RJ
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CinnamonJohnson
Sep 28, 2007, 7:53 PM
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I take it this thing is a notch harder than Big Empty or Kill or Be Killed? I havent been on either, but it sounds like the Big Empty gets sent often...
Science Bless,
Cinnamon
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rjtrials
Sep 29, 2007, 3:11 AM
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Fire seems to be about V9 into a an excellent rest followed by V3. The opening boulder problem should get you 13d credit but no more...
The Big Easy is a power-endurance route. If you are already pretty strong and fit, it shouldn't be too bad. If you are trying to break into the grade, its gonna be easy to one hang, but hard to send. Regardless, its somewhere in the 13c range...
To me, and several other local climbers, Kill feels significantly easier than Big Empty. With the right beta, its still prolly in the 13c range, just low in the grade. Others feel Kill is REALLY hard. It is big and intimidating, but goes quick...
If you are interested in getting on any of the Chossters testpieces, just gimme a shout...
RJ
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