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msecoda
Jul 17, 2002, 6:13 PM
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I was in a motorcycle accident last year that screwed my shoulder up pretty good.
After finally getting the itch to get back on the rock I was finally healed enough to hit it this spring.
My buddy who I climbed with before the accident says that I have lost my nerve. At first I thought it was because I ballooned up to 230 lbs. but now I am down to 205 and still not at home on the rocks. Is there anyway to train you mind and body to get back to where you were?
Just thought maybe someone has gone through this.
Thanks
Mike
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wildtrail
Jul 17, 2002, 6:59 PM
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I have gone through some things myself.
The best advice I can offer is this:
Keep doing it. The more you do it, the more you will be come comfortable with it. Keep in mind that you are not a stranger to the world of climbing, you know what you are doing, and you have done this before. Place, clip, breath, press on.
Do what I did for a while. If your nerves are unsettled, just place pro like I did. Every time you feet get to the last piece of pro, put another one in. Also, what helped me get over the gitters was climbing something that had a crux I could not do. There is a good route in my local crag. The route is about 40 feet long and the crux is in the first third of the route. I climbed up to it knowing I would peel off and have to take the fall. Taking the fall reminded me that it wasn't so bad. The great thing was, I always had to go around the crux and make it a "me" variation. After two falls, I pulled the damn thing somehow and celebrated in my vitory and the fact that I was a little more at ease.
Basically, relax, keep slogging, and realize that you have done this before. Get confident in each individual move, not the whole route.
Steve
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msecoda
Jul 17, 2002, 7:23 PM
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Thanks Steve,
Good advice, I will try it and let you know how I make out. It is just really weird.
The one place I used to be most comfortable is a little unsettling now. Not like I am scared but I rush moves and overall just can't relax. It's like I can't wait to climb and then when I am climbing, I am rushing to finish... Chalk it up to phsychological problems I guess. No worries
I am sure it will all come back.
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wildtrail
Jul 19, 2002, 12:57 AM
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You'll do fine. Like I said, just remember that this is a place you have been before. Keep on going and eventually you'll "come down to earth", if ya know what I mean. You'll do fine.
Steve
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rjmazzoni
Jul 26, 2002, 4:23 PM
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Hey Mike,
I know exactly what you're going through, dude. 'Bout a year ago I took a 17' fall and shattered my ankle. Long story short, took surgery, 3 pins, 7 months in a cast, and I'm only now rehabbed enough to climb again. Same thing with you....not in the shape needed to climb, itching to get back there, and nervous on the rock. Like Steve said, falls help....Just keep getting out and you'll get back to where you were.
Best of luck,
RJ
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petelasko
Jul 28, 2002, 9:20 PM
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I'd say take a couple nice falls. That's the best way to not be scared. After the first couple falls of the day, it becomes the climbing that is important, and the fear goes away. Plus you get that nice adreniline rush.
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msecoda
Jul 31, 2002, 2:18 PM
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Thanks RJ
That is what I have been doing just hitting the rocks as often and hard as I can. It is amazing how out of shape I really am. I don't know that I am any more comfortable on the rocks but I have my drive back. That is all I want to do in my free time and not so free time.
Climb safe but push a little harder than you should
mike
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rjmazzoni
Aug 2, 2002, 2:49 AM
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Yeah, getting out of shape is much easier than it used to be, and it seems harder and longer to even try to get back into shape. Best of luck getting back.
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msecoda
Aug 14, 2002, 5:27 PM
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You can say that again but I am down to 205 lbs and my ideal climbing weight is about 185-190 so I am getting there. It is a long way from 230 (that is what I was at at christmas last year)
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climbjs
Aug 14, 2002, 6:11 PM
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Hang in there, dude! It takes awhile to get one's head back into climbing. I've returned from injuries and was way freaked out and uncomfortable leading. Stick with it, and you'll have smooth cruising!
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bergsteigen
Aug 21, 2002, 3:47 PM
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Mike- I just had a vasectomy three weeks ago, and I was able to get on the wall just the other day, after 2 1/2 weeks. Kind of a self inflicted injury?! My biggest problem with my situation, was not wanting to get into my harness. Putting the harness was not that bad, but I was dreading the first fall like nothing else. I was climbing pretty good, but rather cautious. Finally, I had to just peel off the wall and take it. Well, at least I am back in the saddle, so to speak! For me, it was mostly mental- Berg
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jammer
Aug 21, 2002, 4:12 PM
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In 87 I was in a car accident and broke my neck. Needless to say, I took a few years off climbing, not because I didn't heal properly, but because I was scared of falling and snapping my neck in the wrong way, either killing me or crippling me. Anyway, to make a long story short, I finally decided to give it another try and I felt more and more sure of myself as time went on. I now have no issues with climbing and enjoy it more then before. I've even fallen a few times, which was scary at first, but the fear subsided more after each fall. Keep climbing and everything will come back. Don’t give up or give in to others suggestions of you loosing your nerve. Things take time … don’t push it … enjoy it!!
Climb On!
Alan
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foograbbinstone
Aug 23, 2002, 6:57 AM
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Hey MIke'
I almost cut off my middle finger left hand with a skillsaw for x-mas last year. Not pleasant.Well 8 mths and 1 surgery,2 tendons ,2 nerves 2 arteries later its still not the same but getting progresively better. (still have atleast 1 operation pending about the time of RC@ Rumney gath/ keeping my good fingers crossed) That is what the key point is though,prog/better.I've always been an active guy, the last 8 mths have been the least active of my life but it's definately on the upswing again strength and endurance are coming back.The head though thats a diff/ matter , find myself trying to baby my left hand and not wanting to trust it. I'm confident that time heals all( well O.k. most) wounds, and alittle patience goes a long long way. Be safe bro take your time!!!
Mike
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msecoda
Sep 3, 2002, 7:08 PM
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Thank you everyone for the support and advice,
Just an update this weekend I led a short route (1 pitch 5.8 ) don't laugh because you would have to be 6'4'' or better to clip into the pin at the crux. Since I am 5'8'' I had to clip in after I was above it .
Felt really good to get back out there.
Climb on
[ This Message was edited by: msecoda on 2002-09-04 12:09 ]
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