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C3's over TCU or Aliens?
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cybond


Aug 5, 2006, 8:34 AM
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C3's over TCU or Aliens?
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I was wondering if the C3's are in any way a comparison to the tcu's or the smaller aliens. I'm working on the smaller active pro on my rack, and was thinking if I needed to invest the money in the C3's first. I know that it depends on the type of climbing I'll be doing. Never mind guys, I actually searched and found my exact thread...Ain't that nifty.


tradclmbr


Aug 5, 2006, 2:04 PM
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Re: C3's over TCU or Aliens? [In reply to]
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Im going to reply anyway.....c3's are extremely stiff laterally. In other words if you climb mostly vertical cracks (yosemite) they lever out...particularly bad for aid climbing, but also not great for trad in my opinion. Id rather have aliens and even rather have TCUs


billcoe_


Aug 7, 2006, 7:22 PM
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Re: C3's over TCU or Aliens? [In reply to]
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I've anly seen the C3's once and they worked good. BUT, you can pick up Aliens from MGEAR.com or others closing out the last design in the $40 range right now. VS $60 for new technology which may not be as good.

I'd do that. Aliens.


Partner j_ung


Aug 7, 2006, 11:09 PM
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Re: C3's over TCU or Aliens? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Im going to reply anyway.....c3's are extremely stiff laterally. In other words if you climb mostly vertical cracks (yosemite) they lever out...particularly bad for aid climbing, but also not great for trad in my opinion. Id rather have aliens and even rather have TCUs

Interesting. My info (admittedly not first hand) is that they twist nicely to reorient and eliminate the problem you describe above. Have you used them?


chanceboarder


Aug 7, 2006, 11:30 PM
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Re: C3's over TCU or Aliens? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Im going to reply anyway.....c3's are extremely stiff laterally. In other words if you climb mostly vertical cracks (yosemite) they lever out...particularly bad for aid climbing, but also not great for trad in my opinion. Id rather have aliens and even rather have TCUs

Interesting. My info (admittedly not first hand) is that they twist nicely to reorient and eliminate the problem you describe above. Have you used them?
I agree with j_ung on this. Mine twist perfectly when placed in a vertical crack and weighted. I can see how they might not be able to twist enough if place completely straight in and not more at a downward angle in the direction of a fall but they I've never seen mine show any signs of "levering out" because they didn't twist enough.

To answer the original question I own and use all 3 an find that they all have their own place on my rack its really just a matter of what the climb calls for. My personal preference go towards my Aliens, they just feel super solid when placed.


begood77


Aug 8, 2006, 1:25 PM
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Re: C3's over TCU or Aliens? [In reply to]
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I have been having trouble getting people opinion on the c3 beside they are extremely expensive. People keep saying they like aliens better, but I can't help feeling it is partly because that is what they are used to. I have a friend who can get the c3s for me cheaper/same as the aliens and I have been thinking about the 0, 1, and 2 c3. I have played with them in the store and I like the feel of them. I also climb mostly at the gunks and up in North Conway. I am just looking to fill out my rack with some thinner pro. I have found places where my lower sized tech friends were a little too wide.


Partner alexmac


Aug 9, 2006, 12:00 PM
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Re: C3's over TCU or Aliens? [In reply to]
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I have used the C3's and actually do not like them over the TCU or Aliens as the heads get scuffed and can deform on the back of the cams if they "twist" into place. Once the head is messed and found post climb inspection of gear its into the trash bin.

The deformation of the C3 was not a result of a fall but me sitting back on the cam after having to bail in a hurry; nesting animal with kids and not to pleased to see me.

To Black Diamonds credit I contacted the company, sent them images of the cam and they are replacing it; but, the heads just are a bit too soft for me.


Partner devkrev


Aug 9, 2006, 12:16 PM
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Re: C3's over TCU or Aliens? [In reply to]
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My climbing partner has one C3 in the blue-green alien range. Other than that, we climb on all aliens for small cams. There are real little funky placements where only the c3 works. I also like how stiff the springs are, you don't have to worry alot about the placement walking.
I also saw pictures of Tommy Caldwell climbing on C3s, so they have to be good right? :lol:

dev


microbarn


Aug 9, 2006, 3:33 PM
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Re: C3's over TCU or Aliens? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
sent them images of the cam


could you post them up here?


grayhghost


Aug 9, 2006, 3:50 PM
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C3's are for free-climbing. Aliens are for Aid climbing.


norushnomore


Aug 9, 2006, 7:35 PM
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Got a set of C3s this spring (with the exception of the smallest one) and have been using them all summer.

They are now my favorites and completely displaced yellow, green and blue aliens (free climbing, I don't do any aid climbing)

Have not had any problems with head twisting or other bs suggested above. They place beautifully, go into places no other cam would fit and stay planted with their stiff springs. And clean well too.


Partner alexmac


Aug 9, 2006, 9:01 PM
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Re: C3's over TCU or Aliens? [In reply to]
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Hmm, okay I will have to post a few pictures; gawd I hate uploading here so the url to yahoo. Keep in mind that the photo of the cam is of one cam used once, lots of wear on the metal for a single use. http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/...=3547re2.jpg&.src=ph

when you view , you will see left lobe in photo has a chip out of it and actually deforms such that when the trigger is pulled it interfers with the action.

Black Diamond has already promised send a replacement. Excellent customer service in fact.

The issue I have is with the metal, scuffs and pits on a single use; my C4's not an issue at all and very happy with all my BD gear and will continue to use C3's. Not here to say anyone is BS or such; just sharing, unlike some.

Off to Rattle Snake Sunday to climb if I have time will photo graph how they were placed.

Alex


begood77


Aug 9, 2006, 9:09 PM
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I think the photos are marked private or something.


norushnomore


Aug 10, 2006, 1:07 AM
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Sounds like you placed them in one and then loaded in a different direction. Well, if they had no room to turn then what do you expect?

Always place your pro in anticipated load direction (well, if you can)

Search Malcolm’s thread on loading cams sideways.


microbarn


Aug 10, 2006, 1:52 AM
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Re: C3's over TCU or Aliens? [In reply to]
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alexmac, the pictures do seem to be marked private or something. I am not able to view them. Thanks for trying to share. I would like to know what kind of failures are possible.


Partner alexmac


Aug 10, 2006, 12:48 PM
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Re: C3's over TCU or Aliens? [In reply to]
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Hmmm, Grrr, I am so sorry, am such an ... for that; I have marked the photos public. Seems some of my other photos were marked private for another unrelated to climbing trip so this was a good thing to know.

Again, thank you all for your patience; once again sorry.

An additional note when I compare the heavy use of my c4 and the cam heads, I find no pitting or scaring even after a few lead falls. Nothing wrong with gear other than the head of that c3.


microbarn


Aug 11, 2006, 1:39 AM
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Thanks for posting the pics. I am not sure if this one case is enough to sway me one way or the other. If I start hearing about other cases though, then I will be convinced.


Partner alexmac


Aug 11, 2006, 2:46 AM
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no worries and no problem just check the heads for scaring, try one, expensive way but dont' buy a set yet.

Alex


kevinheiss


Aug 20, 2006, 8:55 PM
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Re: C3's over TCU or Aliens? [In reply to]
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Honestly I think it comes down to preferrence. I like TCU as they are a little cheaper, work well and to be honest I find them comfortable. Just try a few of them a see which ones you like.

All 3 of them a really good cam companies, it really comes down to preferrence.


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Aug 20, 2006, 9:13 PM
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In reply to:
I have used the C3's and actually do not like them over the TCU or Aliens as the heads get scuffed and can deform on the back of the cams if they "twist" into place. Once the head is messed and found post climb inspection of gear its into the trash bin.

The deformation of the C3 was not a result of a fall but me sitting back on the cam after having to bail in a hurry; nesting animal with kids and not to pleased to see me.

To Black Diamonds credit I contacted the company, sent them images of the cam and they are replacing it; but, the heads just are a bit too soft for me.

Alien cam lobes are just as soft if not softer. I think you must have placed the C3 in a way that alot of leverage was put on the cam when it twisted. Thats your fault.


Partner alexmac


Aug 20, 2006, 10:10 PM
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[quote="gunksgoerAlien cam lobes are just as soft if not softer. I think you must have placed the C3 in a way that alot of leverage was put on the cam when it twisted. Thats your fault.
I really wish people were not saying this as I set it in the direct of fall and did see the back lobe in the photo. I have used Alien cams, they work far far far better and the heads don't deform on sititng back on them.


shimanilami


Aug 29, 2006, 7:50 PM
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Ivo showed me a handful of black and blue aliens he'd shredded to pieces when he took long falls on them. He said the C3's and the TCU's are better if you're falling on them.

"Why do you climb on aliens, then?" I asked.

"Because nothing else fits."

Go figure.


xzeroenemyx


Sep 15, 2006, 12:39 PM
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Has anyone else climbed with the c3's. I played with one the other day for the first time and my first impression was that it might lever out depending on how it was placed. i think i might go buy one to try anyway though.


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