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brotherbbock
Aug 1, 2006, 4:46 PM
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I've been trad climbing for a couple of years now, and have been constantly refining my racking setup. I've been using the metolius gear loop shoulder strap, I rack my stoppers and hexes on the large loop, and my cams on the 5 smaller loops. My question for all of you with trad climbing experience is what is the best way to rack your extra biners and runners? The way I've been doing it is by using a sling and racking my ovals and other biners in groups of three or more to the sling. Then I just shoulder loop however many runners I need for the route. I also keep my draws on my harness gear loops along with some lockers. The reason I am asking is I commonly see trad pictures with the runners and biners pre-setup and racked on gear loops, rather than manually setting the whole thing up. I'm sure there are pro's and con's to both. Any pictures of trad racks would also help. Thanks! Climb on!
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organic
Aug 1, 2006, 5:58 PM
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In reply to: I've been trad climbing for a couple of years now, and have been constantly refining my racking setup. I've been using the metolius gear loop shoulder strap, I rack my stoppers and hexes on the large loop, and my cams on the 5 smaller loops. My question for all of you with trad climbing experience is what is the best way to rack your extra biners and runners? The way I've been doing it is by using a sling and racking my ovals and other biners in groups of three or more to the sling. Then I just shoulder loop however many runners I need for the route. I also keep my draws on my harness gear loops along with some lockers. The reason I am asking is I commonly see trad pictures with the runners and biners pre-setup and racked on gear loops, rather than manually setting the whole thing up. I'm sure there are pro's and con's to both. Any pictures of trad racks would also help. Thanks! Climb on!
You use hexes? tee hee
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reno
Aug 1, 2006, 6:03 PM
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reno moved this thread from Community to Trad Climbing.
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climbinginchico
Aug 2, 2006, 3:57 AM
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Do you wear a harness? If so, does it happen to have some gear loops you might be able to utilize to rack your slings as trad draws.
Just an idea.
Personally I rack everything on my Misty Mountain Cadillac harness. 6 gear loops baby! 8^)
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vegastradguy
Aug 2, 2006, 4:42 AM
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yup, trad draws on the harness. spare carabiners/anchor kit/ belay device on the back loops.
personally, i cant stand slings, so i rack on my harness, but....to each their own.
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mcfoley
Sep 4, 2006, 4:41 PM
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Depends on the route but generally I rack stoppers on my first harness gear loop (eitherside), then cams in ascending order on that loop, then on the other side on the 1st gear loop I continue with the cams...usually up to 3 (camalot). then on the second gear loops I have about "6 trad draws" and a few reg draws, and supplemental biners. On my last loop I have cordalettes on biners, self rescue gear (prussics, miniascender,knife,etc) and whatever else...
On my gear sling I have whatever supplemental gear I need for the route... bigger cams, another set of stoppers, addl biners. then over the shoulder I have slings (mostly 24", 1-2 48", some sewn and some tied).
If it's a single pitch, I usually skip the gear sling...
http://webpages.charter.net/...20Joshua%20tree2.JPG
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justthemaid
Sep 4, 2006, 4:44 PM
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mmm.
Dairy Queen^^^
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andypro
Sep 4, 2006, 4:55 PM
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For free biners I make chains. Each "link" has two biners on it. Depending on how many you have, the length can be anywhere from 2 links (4 biners) to 4 or 5 links, though that gets pretty long. I usually like to keep it to 3 links or less, and try to keep like biners together (one chain ovals, one chain d's, etc).
As far as slings, I just put em on my harness if they're trad draw type things. If they're single biner slings I like to wrap em up mountaineering style, and unbinered slings just go over my shoulder.
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fredo
Sep 4, 2006, 8:01 PM
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In reply to: Personally I rack everything on my Misty Mountain Cadillac harness. 6 gear loops baby! 8^)
Oh yeah, Gear on the harness. I rack 4-6 24'' runners over the shoulder with the biners attached, set up a handful(depends on the route) of 24'' draws that I rack as "quickdraws' on my gear loops. Again route specific, but carry a variety of 12''- 6'' draws. Used to use a gear sling and now can't imagine ever using one again for free climbing
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chuffer
Sep 4, 2006, 8:21 PM
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When climbing single pitch routes I rack on the harness for the comfort of it. For multi-pitch routes where you're swinging leads everything gets racked on a gear sling with loose runners thrown over the shoulder. It's not as comfortable (IMO) to use a sling, but it greatly speeds up and simplifies changeovers at the belay.
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devkrev
Sep 4, 2006, 9:40 PM
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Like everything, for me, it depends.
Most of the time, if its a single pitch, I will rack everything on my harness
small cams/nuts on one side with draws behind them, and bigger cams/tricams or other nuts (offsets/brassies) on the other side, with draws behind.
Alot of times, in CT, climbs ascend corners or offwidths, in which case I rack all hardware on a gear sling, and draws distributed on my harness, the reason for that being I dunno which hip might be wedged in the corner/crack.
but I have know idea what I am talking about
dev
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jaybro
Sep 4, 2006, 10:48 PM
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Registered: Feb 2, 2005
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Front to back, small to large. Freebies/draws usually on seperate sling but case dependent, most nesecary first (or second if you want) Racking gear on harness loops is for sport climbers and will slow you down on a long 'trad' pitch, though it changes if your feet go over your head.
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