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jman
Sep 5, 2002, 11:29 PM
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I know with climbing outdoors, routes are typically graded based upon the hardest move on the route.
At the climbing gym that I go to, it seems that the routes are set so that almost all of the moves on a particular route are at the route's grade level. I was curious if other gyms typically set routes so that all of the moves are just about at the route's grade level or do they just leave it for the crux?
[ This Message was edited by: jman on 2002-09-05 17:06 ]
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ryanxsevn
Sep 6, 2002, 12:42 AM
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I don't know about other gyms but as far as mine goes the routes are rated way harder than they actuly are. In real life i'm lucky to pull V1 if i work it for a while but in the gym i can pull V3?
don't know if that answers your question but its my 2 cents anyway
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terrainerist
Sep 6, 2002, 12:48 AM
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I'm a route setter at the gym over here. We try to avoid putting in easy rests as well as stopper moves (just as most "high quality" routes are outdoors) As for the grade... we usually try to sandbag just a little bit so that when people go and climb outside, they're not shocked.
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janjaf
Sep 9, 2002, 6:50 AM
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Well, at my gym, the grades are generally very sandbagged - i climb 6(UIAA) on rock but have a hard time with most 5's in the gym.
But i guess it's fair, because on rock there are some many options and routefinding issues, compared to the gym...
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