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Who are the top three climbers in the US?
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majid_sabet


Jul 12, 2006, 5:58 AM
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I vote for Merry and Werner for two, I do not the third person


jred


Jul 12, 2006, 7:04 PM
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In reply to:
Fred Nicole -how old is this guy and still puting up test pieces in Heuco
Chris Sharma -Witness the Fitness....
Tommy Caldwell - Flex Luthor shows his ability to crank hard sport and his work on El Cap is nothing short of legendary
Fred Nicole is Swiss.


jred


Jul 12, 2006, 7:14 PM
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No climber mentioned has ever onsight soloed multiple stacked pitches of 5.12 crack. Mike Reardon went steps beyond previous soloing achievements with his onsight solo of Romantic Warrior. I don't see anyone stepping up to match or better his climb anytime soon. For whatever reason, the climbing community does not seem to recognize (or denies) the significance of this achievement.
Hundreds of people have onsighted 12b crack it is not a big deal, the fact that he is crazy enough to go rope less does not make it any harder. There are many people who can climb harder than Reardon, there are many people who have pioneered much, much more than Reardon. Reardon's limited style and lack of notable accents would put him at the bottom of my list.


acacongua


Jul 12, 2006, 8:05 PM
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Alex Huber is one of those damned krauts, so he doesn't count.

My list for the top three climbers in the USA would be

1. the one having the most fun
2. the other one having the most fun
3. Tori Allen

Tori as I understand it, is a has-been. She's now springing off poles in Florida.


Partner camhead


Jul 12, 2006, 8:17 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Alex Huber is one of those damned krauts, so he doesn't count.

My list for the top three climbers in the USA would be

1. the one having the most fun
2. the other one having the most fun
3. Tori Allen

Tori as I understand it, is a has-been. She's now springing off poles in Florida.


oops, my mistake.

revision:
the top three climbers in the US are
1. Acacongua
2. Acacongua
3. Acacongua when she is having the most fun

sorry about the goof!


sidepull


Jul 12, 2006, 8:25 PM
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although several have noted kansasclimber's prowess, they have misanswered the question by not putting him in order. the three living legends that are currently climbing (right now at this very moment) are:

1) Burt Bronson
2) Kansasclimber
3) BVB (&*%$@ legend)

Runners up (or first and second place in the chemically enhanced category):

Okie-redneck and Prox1mo


sidepull


Jul 12, 2006, 8:27 PM
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No climber mentioned has ever onsight soloed multiple stacked pitches of 5.12 crack. Mike Reardon went steps beyond previous soloing achievements with his onsight solo of Romantic Warrior. I don't see anyone stepping up to match or better his climb anytime soon. For whatever reason, the climbing community does not seem to recognize (or denies) the significance of this achievement.

who paid you to post this? Reardon's stunts are a poor man's version of Dean Potter's recent stupidity. There are hundreds of climbers that could do that if they choose to.


kricir


Jul 12, 2006, 9:43 PM
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Steve House - best alpine climber by far, Rupal face? K7 solo?

Tommy Caldwell - Best all around rock master, 5.15 sport, big wall free climbing link ups, alpine big walls, shoot!

Chris Sharma - is Chris Sharma, nuff said.

Honorable mention:

Dave Graham - he is good, but he is really just a genetic freak with a stick body and mutant fingers.

Will Gadd - for showing everyone what mixed climbing really is.

Dean Potter - For his innovative way of soloing big walls, plus hes like 6’ 5’’


epsilon


Jul 13, 2006, 12:45 AM
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Will Gadd is Canadian.

Top 3 current:

1. Steve House
2. Tommy Caldwell
3. Vince Anderson

Top 3 all-time:

1. Alex Lowe
2. George Lowe
3. Jeff Lowe


g
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Jul 13, 2006, 1:21 AM
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How about a free solo of El Cap...in a day...un-supported. That would be rad eh?
I take it East Buttress doesn't count?

For all of you who are sticking to some American standard, he also mentions "living legend", so you can X some names off for that too.


crackmd


Jul 13, 2006, 2:19 AM
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In reply to:
No climber mentioned has ever onsight soloed multiple stacked pitches of 5.12 crack. Mike Reardon went steps beyond previous soloing achievements with his onsight solo of Romantic Warrior. I don't see anyone stepping up to match or better his climb anytime soon. For whatever reason, the climbing community does not seem to recognize (or denies) the significance of this achievement.

who paid you to post this? Reardon's stunts are a poor man's version of Dean Potter's recent stupidity. There are hundreds of climbers that could do that if they choose to.

There are hundreds of climbers who could redpoint the latest 5.15c after 500 burns or the latest V15 after five years of trying. Being the greatest climber is about more than just ability. I think you are deluding yourself in thinking there are hundreds of climbers both physically and mentally capable of repeating Reardon's send. I'd be surprised if it was ever repeated. Obviously, I was not paid to post this. Just trying to give credit where credit is due.


jred


Jul 13, 2006, 3:29 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
No climber mentioned has ever onsight soloed multiple stacked pitches of 5.12 crack. Mike Reardon went steps beyond previous soloing achievements with his onsight solo of Romantic Warrior. I don't see anyone stepping up to match or better his climb anytime soon. For whatever reason, the climbing community does not seem to recognize (or denies) the significance of this achievement.

who paid you to post this? Reardon's stunts are a poor man's version of Dean Potter's recent stupidity. There are hundreds of climbers that could do that if they choose to.

There are hundreds of climbers who could redpoint the latest 5.15c after 500 burns or the latest V15 after five years of trying. Being the greatest climber is about more than just ability. I think you are deluding yourself in thinking there are hundreds of climbers both physically and mentally capable of repeating Reardon's send. I'd be surprised if it was ever repeated. Obviously, I was not paid to post this. Just trying to give credit where credit is due.
Being the greatest has a lot to do with ability, but I do agree it is not everything. There are first accents, repeating other world class climbers routes, being diverse in style, and climbing well all over the world that make for a "greatest" candidate. Mike Reardon lacks the ability, is not a pioneer of note and climbs cracks in the USA. His solo although impressive reminds me of the guy who opens beer bottles with his teeth when he has nothing interesting to say at a party.


sidepull


Jul 13, 2006, 11:50 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
No climber mentioned has ever onsight soloed multiple stacked pitches of 5.12 crack. Mike Reardon went steps beyond previous soloing achievements with his onsight solo of Romantic Warrior. I don't see anyone stepping up to match or better his climb anytime soon. For whatever reason, the climbing community does not seem to recognize (or denies) the significance of this achievement.

who paid you to post this? Reardon's stunts are a poor man's version of Dean Potter's recent stupidity. There are hundreds of climbers that could do that if they choose to.

There are hundreds of climbers who could redpoint the latest 5.15c after 500 burns or the latest V15 after five years of trying. Being the greatest climber is about more than just ability. I think you are deluding yourself in thinking there are hundreds of climbers both physically and mentally capable of repeating Reardon's send. I'd be surprised if it was ever repeated. Obviously, I was not paid to post this. Just trying to give credit where credit is due.

I think you're a bit confused and your comparison is in no way parallel to the point I was making. I agree that climbing is not sheer skill or difficulty. However, I have no doubt that Dani Andrada, either of the Huber brothers, and a whole slew of other guys (including Dean Potter) could do that first go. The fact that they choose not to has more to do with the lack of vision required to do that route. What makes these guys great is that when they do take multiple burns on something it sets a new world standard and when they only take a couple of burns it confirms a world standard whereas Mike's ascent was really just a nice trick.

Moreover, I'd love for you to find the hundreds of climbers than can climb V15 even with 500 trys. I don't think you understand how hard that is.


crackmd


Jul 14, 2006, 12:22 AM
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"A nice trick", a "stunt", "like opening beer bottles with your teeth".

It seems that the climbing community refuses to recognize the significance of Reardon's ascent. Onsight soloing of Romantic Warrior absolutely shatterred previous solo achievements. Yes, soloing Astroman is awesome, but neither Croft or Potter did it onsight. Osman soloing Gun Club was pretty rad, but he knew the moves. Potter soloing Separate Reality 5 times in a row; pretty awesome, but not onsight. Bachar soloing the Gift, way rad (myself having taken about 20 falls trying to RP it), but still not an onsight.

Perhaps the reason for this denial is his personality. Perhaps he is being perceived as self-promoting. I don't know. I hear there are folks who doubt his ascent, some apparrently well-known climbers. None of them will reveal who they are however. Sidepull, it's easy to bash someone who has done something few if any will ever do from the safety of the internet with your faceless profile pic.

I just know how I felt when I heard the news. I thought, "wow, this is huge". To me, it is the most groundbreaking ascent I have heard of in my 16-years of climbing. Sure, when the world-class guys raise the bar from 5.15a to 5.15b it is significant and requires an amazing amount of talent and dedication. Reardon's ascent was no mere step in the progression however. This goes way beyond anything ever done before (at least what has been reported). Give the guy the credit he deserves!


sidepull


Jul 14, 2006, 12:36 AM
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"A nice trick", a "stunt", "like opening beer bottles with your teeth".

It seems that the climbing community refuses to recognize the significance of Reardon's ascent. Onsight soloing of Romantic Warrior absolutely shatterred previous solo achievements. Yes, soloing Astroman is awesome, but neither Croft or Potter did it onsight. Osman soloing Gun Club was pretty rad, but he knew the moves. Potter soloing Separate Reality 5 times in a row; pretty awesome, but not onsight. Bachar soloing the Gift, way rad (myself having taken about 20 falls trying to RP it), but still not an onsight.

Perhaps the reason for this denial is his personality. Perhaps he is being perceived as self-promoting. I don't know. I hear there are folks who doubt his ascent, some apparrently well-known climbers. None of them will reveal who they are however. Sidepull, it's easy to bash someone who has done something few if any will ever do from the safety of the internet with your faceless profile pic.

I just know how I felt when I heard the news. I thought, "wow, this is huge". To me, it is the most groundbreaking ascent I have heard of in my 16-years of climbing. Sure, when the world-class guys raise the bar from 5.15a to 5.15b it is significant and requires an amazing amount of talent and dedication. Reardon's ascent was no mere step in the progression however. This goes way beyond anything ever done before (at least what has been reported). Give the guy the credit he deserves!

Crack - there's a part of me that sort of wants to believe you or at least acknowledge that what Reardon did was groundbreaking but I doubt it would even crack my top 100 climbs list. Moreover, don't you think you're a bit overzealous here? Maybe it's because you've been on the route and therefore the level of difficult is more real for you. Sans any sarcasm, I'm glad that what he did inspires you.

But the fact of the matter is that the guys that crank V15 could do that route if they wanted to whereas Reardon will never do a V15 or Realization, period. So what's left? Because he can't do difficulty he chooses danger. Sure, it's ballsy but it's really all he's got and one of these days he'll go butt-rocketing into the ground and no one will remember him while the guys pushing the difficulty barrier will keep setting standards.

Sorry.


acacongua


Jul 14, 2006, 4:06 PM
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Climbing is NOT about fun. This is serious stuff. If you're not sending 5.12 as a warm up, go home.


acacongua


Jul 14, 2006, 4:08 PM
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In reply to:

oops, my mistake.

revision:
the top three climbers in the US are
1. Acacongua
2. Acacongua
3. Acacongua when she is having the most fun

Climbing is NOT about fun. This is serious stuff. If you're not sending 5.12 as a warm up, go home.


jred


Jul 14, 2006, 11:52 PM
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"A nice trick", a "stunt", "like opening beer bottles with your teeth".

It seems that the climbing community refuses to recognize the significance of Reardon's ascent. Onsight soloing of Romantic Warrior absolutely shatterred previous solo achievements. Yes, soloing Astroman is awesome, but neither Croft or Potter did it onsight. Osman soloing Gun Club was pretty rad, but he knew the moves. Potter soloing Separate Reality 5 times in a row; pretty awesome, but not onsight. Bachar soloing the Gift, way rad (myself having taken about 20 falls trying to RP it), but still not an onsight.

Perhaps the reason for this denial is his personality. Perhaps he is being perceived as self-promoting. I don't know. I hear there are folks who doubt his ascent, some apparrently well-known climbers. None of them will reveal who they are however. Sidepull, it's easy to bash someone who has done something few if any will ever do from the safety of the internet with your faceless profile pic.

I just know how I felt when I heard the news. I thought, "wow, this is huge". To me, it is the most groundbreaking ascent I have heard of in my 16-years of climbing. Sure, when the world-class guys raise the bar from 5.15a to 5.15b it is significant and requires an amazing amount of talent and dedication. Reardon's ascent was no mere step in the progression however. This goes way beyond anything ever done before (at least what has been reported). Give the guy the credit he deserves!
How many people can on-sight 5.12b? Answer is thousands. How many people can climb 5.14d? Answer is under 100. Alex Huber as an example has soloed 5.14a and down climbed 5.12b to get down, on top of that he is an accomplished free climber with many hard first ascents sport and trad, oh and then there is the mountaineering. Mike Reardon has soloed Romantic Warrior and done what else? There is very minimal signifigance in Reardon's solo other than some bragging rights. Do you honestly think that Dean Potter, Tommy Caldwell and even non crack climber Chris Sharma and many others could not copy this feat easily if they so desired?


jcrew


Jul 15, 2006, 2:58 PM
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There is very minimal signifigance in Reardon's solo other than some bragging rights. Do you honestly think that Dean Potter, Tommy Caldwell and even non crack climber Chris Sharma and many others could not copy this feat easily if they so desired?

maybe potter could do it because he's so mentally beyond...........but climbing without a rope takes the whole game to the ultimate level. solo is do or die, and few can handle that kind of committment.

i've seen people redpoint 5.12's down at the local sport crag, then whimper on the exposed 3rd class approach trail. without the security of the protection system, they freeze up and can't function.

now, whether reardon actually did it is another story.......


rjtrials


Jul 15, 2006, 3:21 PM
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Re: Who are the top three climbers in the US? [In reply to]
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Honorable mention:

Dave Graham - he is good, but he is really just a genetic freak with a stick body and mutant fingers.
Are you talking about James Litz or Dave Graham here?

Dave tries exceptionally hard. He has more drive, energy and motivation than I can even fathom. But he has to try really, really really hard.

James Litz on the other hand is super mellow and chill. He does have freakishly strong fingers and body. The kid is amazing.

Have you seen the vid of Litz on Crown of Aragorn? He hits a shitty crimp and hangs on it open handed. Then, with loads of weight on the hand, slowly closes it to a crimp! Its unbelievable.
Too bad he has quit climbing for the time being.

RJ


Partner thespider


Jul 18, 2006, 2:52 PM
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me. HA HA


troley


Jul 18, 2006, 3:38 PM
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I hope I'm not the first to think this,...
Who cares who the top climbers are?!
Are you trying to decide how much your trading cards are worth?
Or just trying to figure out who's @ss to kiss if you meet them?


Partner thespider


Jul 18, 2006, 3:44 PM
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I hope I'm not the first to think this,...
Who cares who the top climbers are?!
Are you trying to decide how much your trading cards are worth?
Or just trying to figure out who's @ss to kiss if you meet them?

I'll trade a Lynn Hill for a rookie Ron Kauk (before stalone and cliffhanger)


cole22


Sep 8, 2006, 9:55 AM
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Sure maybe millions can onsight 5.12b and maybe even a few pitches of it. But saying that Sharma or Graham or any ROCK star could climb Romantic Warrior onsight, free solo if they had the desire to, just because we know they have the strength, is just plain naive. The ability is a long way from the reality my friend. What I love about rock climbing more than any other sport I've played is the mix of physical and mental control, i.e overcoming a very natural fear of falling and death. Like someone said earlier, Reardon's recent onsight free solo shattered anything close to it in terms of length, sustainedness, and commitment. In a sport that is so diverse it's true that others hold the position of strongest climber or most influential but you can't tell me that Reardon isn't among the elite when it comes to our sport's mental game. And for that, give the man his due. His Romantic Warrior send stands among rock climbing's greatest achievements, if for no reason other than nobody in history has ever done anything even close to that in the same style.


yanqui


Sep 8, 2006, 1:50 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Alex Huber is one of those damned krauts, so he doesn't count.

My list for the top three climbers in the USA would be

1. the one having the most fun
2. the other one having the most fun
3. Tori Allen

What a cheese assed answer.

You're sew wrong, dude. Camhead knows. He did the research.

http://www.huckdoll.com/images/toriallen.jpg

Is that kewl, or what? The sponsors think so:

In reply to:
The Tori Allen Signature HuckDoll comes with Oakley sunglasses, a
Petzl helmet and quickdraws, a Krieg chalk bag, a rope and Tori's monkey. Tori is also wearing Boreal climbing shoes.

Ha. Like maybe there's a Canadian climber with their own bendable action figure? I think not.

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